There are two relays in my Dakota setup.

Powermaster tech rep said no exciter wire is needed if "I bought it in the last couple years"

The Powermaster is apparently very sensitive to the belt not being tight, it is tighter now and that helped some.

After reading all the posts, my suggestion is to check the voltage with the engine at various RPMs. This is due to pulley ratio.
Around idle (800 rpm) it may only be 12 volts, but checking at 1500 and 2000 rpm should show 13.5-14.4 at the alternator terminal.

Then at the rpm the alternator is putting out 14 volts, check the voltage at other places, battery terminals, MSD or accessory points.

Rattrap,

The amperage doesn't pass through my firewall, I have eliminated all of that wiring, the fans come on with a 12v keyed relay and the power for all the extra components in my car are fed from two new fuse blocks that are independent of the factory fuse block.

I have a Toyota forklift 55A alternator on the RR along with a CSR electric waterpump (POS), an electric fuel pump, dual electric fans from a Dodge intrepid, and a MSD 6AL and HVC coil. Purchase an amp clamp and measure the current at the alternator (big wire) with the alternator full-fielded, then measure the current on the power or ground leads to each component and add them up. My load was nearly 50 amps, and over 55A with lights on. Alternator was producing a maximum of 58A. Even if the load was under 55A the alternator would be at or near full-field just to keep up. At full-field it's just a matter of time before the alternator overheats. Want a real diagnosis instead of a lot of guesses? Get the amp-clamp and measure the alternator output and then measure all the loads and do the math. I suspect you'll find you need a higher capacity alternator or fewer electrical loads.

If you think it's the wiring or grounding then do voltage drop testing. First battery positive to alternator power lead, then battery negative to alternator case, with the the loads turned on (duh). Anything over .5V (half a volt) on any one lead and it's too much especially for new wiring. Next voltage drop from alternator power output to positive lead into each load (fan, fuel pump, waterpump etc) at the load, then alternator case to ground lead to each individual load. Again, anything greater half a volt is too much and requires a wiring repair.

FWIW, my 55A alternator is too small...and for sale just like the fuel pump and waterpump.

I had a 60amp Denso on my Duster, it had a mechanical water pump and fan, electric fuel pump with a return line, worked great, always charged around 14 volts, regular automotive battery.

Now on my 70 Challenger I had a TuffStuff 100amp alternator and an Optima red top battery, I had nothing but battery problems every day, I run an electric water pump, electric fans, and electric fuel pump.
I switched to a regular Walmart battery and life was much better but not perfect. I then bought a 165 Amp Powermaster alternator and now I never charge my battery. It may be way overkill but now all I do is hop in my car and enjoy it every sunny day.

WHAT PN Powermaster replaces that Denso? I think I have a 60amp Denso, from a Toyota 4 runner?? Cant remember its been a long time since I bought it at the parts store LOL

I agree that the only way to solve these problems is with data. Most people don't have a amp clamp but they are fairly inexpensive these days. I've seen them as cheap as $20 but somewhere in the $50 range is probably more common. It is just like anything else, if you don't have the right tool then you can't do the job. I picked up an amp clamp meter last year when I was having some starting problems and I used it to check the current flow all around the car. On my car a 60 amp Denso is more than adequate even with fuel injection and an electric fuel pump and all the other stuff.

A 60 amp Denso alternator is more than enough for most race cars. You have to remember how many systems on the late model cars use and our cars only use 3-5 loads on the system. Say you have a 99 Toyota Camry with a 60 amp Denso alternator on it and it keeps up with a/c fans,blower motor,wipers,radio,lights,etc... They still charge 13.4 with everything on at idle and charge 14.5 just running a fuel pump and a few other basic items. As long as everything is wired correctly with large enough wire the basic 60 amp unit will keep your battery charged for years.
Gus