Re: Alternator Powermaster 8172
[Re: RATTRAP]
#2690533
08/23/19 07:13 AM
08/23/19 07:13 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,449 Martinsville, IN
cdwmotorsports
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,449
Martinsville, IN
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There are two relays in my Dakota setup.
Powermaster tech rep said no exciter wire is needed if "I bought it in the last couple years"
The Powermaster is apparently very sensitive to the belt not being tight, it is tighter now and that helped some.
eBay-cdwmotorsports
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Re: Alternator Powermaster 8172
[Re: RATTRAP]
#2694523
09/04/19 11:41 PM
09/04/19 11:41 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,449 Martinsville, IN
cdwmotorsports
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,449
Martinsville, IN
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You can still have them come on with the ignition switch using a relay (wiring 101), The idea is to pull your power from the source not the alternator, using a relay is eliminating running high voltage past the firewall and having the shortest power source to the fans, Maybe a read on basic automotive wiring is in order. Rattrap, The amperage doesn't pass through my firewall, I have eliminated all of that wiring, the fans come on with a 12v keyed relay and the power for all the extra components in my car are fed from two new fuse blocks that are independent of the factory fuse block.
eBay-cdwmotorsports
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Re: Alternator Powermaster 8172
[Re: cdwmotorsports]
#2694549
09/05/19 12:48 AM
09/05/19 12:48 AM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 609 Boise
Moparteacher
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 609
Boise
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I have a Toyota forklift 55A alternator on the RR along with a CSR electric waterpump (POS), an electric fuel pump, dual electric fans from a Dodge intrepid, and a MSD 6AL and HVC coil. Purchase an amp clamp and measure the current at the alternator (big wire) with the alternator full-fielded, then measure the current on the power or ground leads to each component and add them up. My load was nearly 50 amps, and over 55A with lights on. Alternator was producing a maximum of 58A. Even if the load was under 55A the alternator would be at or near full-field just to keep up. At full-field it's just a matter of time before the alternator overheats. Want a real diagnosis instead of a lot of guesses? Get the amp-clamp and measure the alternator output and then measure all the loads and do the math. I suspect you'll find you need a higher capacity alternator or fewer electrical loads.
If you think it's the wiring or grounding then do voltage drop testing. First battery positive to alternator power lead, then battery negative to alternator case, with the the loads turned on (duh). Anything over .5V (half a volt) on any one lead and it's too much especially for new wiring. Next voltage drop from alternator power output to positive lead into each load (fan, fuel pump, waterpump etc) at the load, then alternator case to ground lead to each individual load. Again, anything greater half a volt is too much and requires a wiring repair.
FWIW, my 55A alternator is too small...and for sale just like the fuel pump and waterpump.
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Re: Alternator Powermaster 8172
[Re: Moparteacher]
#2694565
09/05/19 04:37 AM
09/05/19 04:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,918 Akron, Ohio
ProSport
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,918
Akron, Ohio
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I had a 60amp Denso on my Duster, it had a mechanical water pump and fan, electric fuel pump with a return line, worked great, always charged around 14 volts, regular automotive battery.
Now on my 70 Challenger I had a TuffStuff 100amp alternator and an Optima red top battery, I had nothing but battery problems every day, I run an electric water pump, electric fans, and electric fuel pump. I switched to a regular Walmart battery and life was much better but not perfect. I then bought a 165 Amp Powermaster alternator and now I never charge my battery. It may be way overkill but now all I do is hop in my car and enjoy it every sunny day.
1970 Challenger, all aluminum 528 Hemi, HDK suspension, Tremec 5 speed manual
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Re: Alternator Powermaster 8172
[Re: ProSport]
#2694640
09/05/19 10:33 AM
09/05/19 10:33 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,682 On the parachute mount
n20mstr
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,682
On the parachute mount
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I had a 60amp Denso on my Duster, it had a mechanical water pump and fan, electric fuel pump with a return line, worked great, always charged around 14 volts, regular automotive battery.
Now on my 70 Challenger I had a TuffStuff 100amp alternator and an Optima red top battery, I had nothing but battery problems every day, I run an electric water pump, electric fans, and electric fuel pump. I switched to a regular Walmart battery and life was much better but not perfect. I then bought a 165 Amp Powermaster alternator and now I never charge my battery. It may be way overkill but now all I do is hop in my car and enjoy it every sunny day. WHAT PN Powermaster replaces that Denso? I think I have a 60amp Denso, from a Toyota 4 runner?? Cant remember its been a long time since I bought it at the parts store LOL
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: Alternator Powermaster 8172
[Re: n20mstr]
#2694788
09/05/19 08:25 PM
09/05/19 08:25 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,554
Rittman Ohio
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A 60 amp Denso alternator is more than enough for most race cars. You have to remember how many systems on the late model cars use and our cars only use 3-5 loads on the system. Say you have a 99 Toyota Camry with a 60 amp Denso alternator on it and it keeps up with a/c fans,blower motor,wipers,radio,lights,etc... They still charge 13.4 with everything on at idle and charge 14.5 just running a fuel pump and a few other basic items. As long as everything is wired correctly with large enough wire the basic 60 amp unit will keep your battery charged for years. Gus
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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