Dear Mopar gent's,
Here in Sweden we have our own "Drag Week" event and I just bought a 71 Duster for next years event.
You get punished for nos, turbos, wide slicks etc and I will try to keep it "simple" with an normally aspirated LA and 295's street slicks to compete in the 'True Street Class'. With wider tires you will be moved up to faster classes. All tracks are 1/8 mile.

I don't yet know much about the Duster I have conquered but I can't stop thinking and planning. It will take some time to sell some other Mopars before I can start tearing it apart to see exactly what I have but until then I want to plan and dream a little

Nice and rust free body, decent/good paint, has had the leafs moved in but someone put them back to original location, fiberglass bumpers and hood, original interior and dash, Quicksilver shifter, all electrical works, expensive extra gauges, roll control, engine bay in good order, beaten up Hooker comp headers, half 2.5" exhaust with Flowmater 40's, steel braided fuel lines and an expensive fuel regulator, tank sump and Holley blue fuel pump and filter back at rear bumper, 8 3/4" and big bolt pattern all around. '73 disc brakes up front. It looks overall pretty serious and well built.

It has a 340 with Edelbrock heads and the people I bought it from said it ran 13,2. They told me they don't know s**t about tuning and it's easy to figure out. They claimed the engine was built by a serious engine builder but they had lost all the documentation. No idea of cam, CR or anything...
I have just started it and driven it around the block. It sounds healthy but slow. They have put on a new stock MP distributor (lazy adv curve) with a MSD 6AL box and the brand new Quick Fuel had the float level adjusted as high as possible so I'm not really surprised it didn't perform better. It has manual valve body tranny (forgot to check if it's a 727 or 904) and stalled around 3,200 on 3rd with braking it hard.

Either the 340 is a good start or it's not, I won't know 'til I open it up but I actually think it can be.
Let's start from the other end instead.

I'm thinking of bringing only tools and an 4.56 spool chunk (that I already have) to change before and after race. I have a good 3.23 LS that would be good for transportation between the races. I also have a 518 46RH but I don't know if I will get the time for installing that for next year.

Would it be crazy to believe I could build a normally aspirated AND reliable 340 that runs consistent high 6 second runs in that Duster on pump gas? 6.9's would put me in top 10 in the 'True Street Class' among all the Chevy's.

How would your recipe look?

I will need to weld in a 6 point cage but apart from that I will try to keep it as original looking as possible.
CalTracs and monoleafs with good shocks is already on the list.

A stroked 340 with Indy 360 ported heads, roller cam, 10.5:1 and keep the car light, and it shouldn't be an issue to run 6.9's

4.00 forged crank? Ditch the Eddie heads?

Or more stroke than a 4.00 and yes dump the the Eddies.. go for flow

I should be more specific....Indy 360-1 heads...

You guys that can’t build power kill me. Ditch the Edelbrock heads. LMAO 😂
And he doesn’t need a Stroker crank either. A stock 360 crank will easily run 6’s

Hes building a 340 and why not keep the revs down

Is 6700 high? I don't really think that is high. My sons Duster is 3200 pounds and has all the required safety equipment. (roll bar, frames tied etc, etc) Its gone 6.54 four times so far with a stock 360 crank, 600 lift roller cam (wanted to go bigger but valve to piston restricted us) 4.10 gears. I'm sure his 727 is eating some power so a 904 could be another et gain. I ported his 400.00 set of open chamber 340 Edelbrock style heads I bought damaged off Moparts for 400 dollars. I'm sure there are LOTS of better head porters than me out the so its not brain surgery.

But John would you leave the gate, drive a couple hundred miles with it just to race again? I had similar feelings to when I think of the old school basic build sitting between my fenders right now that went high 10’s in Vegas, but 13.5-1 would not work into the scenario well.

I think the heads would be workable, and I totally agree that if you have the ways and means to go with a 4” stroke do it!! Just get the Chev pins for easy rod selection.

Another thing mentioned was an OD trans. Bet it’s heavier than the 727 and I’d have to question its power robbing capabilities compared to a 904.... maybe it’s minimal, but definitely heavier.

Just spit ballin... boring hot day

How many different SB Mopar heads does eddy offer now?
OP, which eddy heads does your motor have on it now?

Ask any stock or super stock owner, racer, builder and ask them what they think about stroker cranks in an LA small block. I've sat around the campfire at the track sipping a few adult beverages an had this discussion several times.

Been there done that only with a A500, (great set up for a cruiser) throwing away a .10 or more ET. I would go 904!

I like the 4" crank, 2.100 pin, 6.125 rods with .927 pins, with the compression based on fuel available.

Budget would dictate a lot of things on the package. Remember weight is your enemy, especially weight that spins.

This could be a fun project

I just bought a block off a buddy of mine because he needed money bad. Honestly I needed like I need another hole in my head but he has around 1300.00 in it and needed 675.00 real bad. It’s a 360 bored .030, new and fitted oil pump drive, brass soft plugs, blocks been squared, new cam bearings, line bore checked, needing only a quick wash job. I still have a brand new (Chevy sized) K1 4 inch stroke crank I bought off Dan at Performance Only years before he passed away. K1 rods are on my shelf with a set of Diamond flat tops and Wiseco high compression pistons it will be topped with a set of .250-.350 moved pushrod Edelbrock heads. Should run 9.50’s

I kind of forgot I run a 4” arm in my “fun” mill.... heck we even kicked around a 4.125. Using a 6” rod in that one.

They are RPM's. Haven't checked for a number but from what I understand the only difference is combustion chamber volume: 63 or 65cc
As soon the heads are off I know myself, I will get into porting since I think it's soo fun
It seems like if you want real good flowing LA heads you need offset rockers, but I hope the Eddies I already have can make me reach my goal with a little work.

I used a set of the Eddy 65 CC RPM heads on a local pump gas stroker 340 motor for a street car with a stick tranny in a 1966 Dodge Dart GT, I think it made close to 500 HP at 6500 RPM on Oregon 91 octane pump swill That was several years ago and my memory isn't any good on projects over 3 yrs ago
I'm going to build myself a 360 based 3 3/4 inch stroker motor this winter to sell and I haven't decided on which heads to use, probalbly either a set of Indy 360-1 or maybe a set of the Eddy Victor or Victor JR heads I'm hoping to make right at 500 HP on Oregon pump swill with a single four barrel carb at or above 850 CFM

I am no small block guy ANY means,but how much can a small block handle before the red zone. I have read the wedge is 750ish

I would start by tearing down that motor, porting the Edelbrocks, 8" converter, 3" exhaust, then spec the new cam, etc. No need to spend the $$$$ for Indy-1's for high 6's.

High 6's is no problem...my old stroker small block ran 6.7's-6.8's @ 98mph with ported Edelbrocks, 10.8:1 compression, small street roller (248/254 @ 0.05),750dp, 727, 4.10 gears...this was in my 3250 lbs 67 Barracuda that I drove all over town.

My current motor in the same car has the same heads, bigger cam, more compression and runs 6.5's @ 104.

One thing he has to figure on is 100* heat.. of the 3 times I was there it was very close to that

The P man brings up a good point.... what kind of air we talking here?