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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26878
02/08/07 06:25 PM
02/08/07 06:25 PM

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I've seen most of the thread. one question, for the brightside what is the best to thin with? Mineral spirits, Methyl Ethyl Keytone, 333? It seems I've seen each of them as a thinner in the tread at some point.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26879
02/08/07 08:28 PM
02/08/07 08:28 PM

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Quote:

I've seen most of the thread. one question, for the brightside what is the best to thin with? Mineral spirits, Methyl Ethyl Keytone, 333? It seems I've seen each of them as a thinner in the tread at some point.




well, nothing should go wrong if you use Interlux's 333 Brushing Liquid (recommended for use with Interlux's Brightside).

however, i, myself, would like to know if Mineral Spirits would be okay to use for thinning with Brightside (or my Marine Paint), and if it would also be okay to use for cleaning a surface area just before laying down a layer of Brightside (or my Marine Paint).

_taF

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26880
02/08/07 11:33 PM
02/08/07 11:33 PM
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Quote:

however, i, myself, would like to know if Mineral Spirits would be okay to use for thinning with Brightside (or my Marine Paint), and if it would also be okay to use for cleaning a surface area just before laying down a layer of Brightside (or my Marine Paint).




I just did my truck in Brightside used mineral spirits to thin and wipe odwn.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69DartGT] #26881
02/09/07 10:42 AM
02/09/07 10:42 AM

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another one I thought of... for body filler, can I do it over rustoleum primer or should I do it on bare metal?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69DartGT] #26882
02/09/07 12:44 PM
02/09/07 12:44 PM

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Quote:

Quote:

however, i, myself, would like to know if Mineral Spirits would be okay to use for thinning with Brightside (or my Marine Paint), and if it would also be okay to use for cleaning a surface area just before laying down a layer of Brightside (or my Marine Paint).




I just did my truck in Brightside used mineral spirits to thin and wipe odwn.




and everything is going well; holding up, i hope?


Quote:

another one I thought of... for body filler, can I do it over rustoleum primer or should I do it on bare metal?




i'm a newb at this whole painting & body work stuff. but i think you may want tha body filler to attach to tha bare metal (harden and sanded/feathered), and then sealed with primer just before laying on a layer of paint.

on tha directions of my Bondo body filler (w/polyester), it says:

1) Clean surface with warm, soapy water or with Mar-Hyde TOTAL PREP to remove all wax, grease and dirt. Allow to dry.

2) Sand the damaged area with coarse 80 grit sandpaper to remove all paint, primer and rust down to bare metal. Sand 1-2 inches beyond damaged area. Remove sanding dust.

3) Mixing: blah, blah; blah...

_taF

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26883
02/09/07 01:11 PM
02/09/07 01:11 PM

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Quote:

another one I thought of... for body filler, can I do it over rustoleum primer or should I do it on bare metal?




I think you should be alright if you sand with 80 before you apply the bondo.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26884
02/09/07 01:51 PM
02/09/07 01:51 PM

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anybody know right off if this primer is any good, especially under marine (topside) paint? it says it's a universal primer. see here: http://nationalpaintsupply.net/runomoqu.html

_taF

ps: for you guys using Interlux Brightside, what is tha Recommended Reducer(s) and tha Recommended Primer(s) said on tha back label?

here are some quick notes i took off tha back label of my Blue Water Marine Paint, that i just received today...

Suggested Uses: Topsides, Decks, Cabin, Masts, Bilge, Waterline, Boottop Striping, Industrial and Offshore Structures.

Limitations: Do not apply if material, substrate or ambient temperature is below 50*F or above 95*F.

Colors: Available in over 30 factory packaged colors, as well as 1000 mixed colors.

Finish: Gloss

Vehicle Type: Polyurethane Alkyd Resin

Solvent Type: High Flash Naptha

VOC: 3.76 lbs. / gal (450 grams / liter)

Solids by Weight: 50%

Weight per Gallon: 10 lbs. per gallon (varies by color)

Recommended Dry Film: 4.0 mils

Coverage: Theoretical coverage at two mils dry is 400 square feet per gallon, and recommended thickness of 4 mils dry would require 2 full coats. Material losses during mixing and application will vary and must be taken into consideration. Expect 50% less coverage on bare, rough or sandblasted surfaces.

Viscosity at 75*F (24*C): 70-80 KU

Average Dry Time 75*F: Dries to touch in 4 hours. Lower temperature & higher humidity will slow down dry times.

Recommended Reducer: Xylene for spray application, Hi Flash Naptha for brushing or rolling.

Resistance to: Chemical Resistance, Abrasion, Oils, Grease, Rust, Corrosion, Mildew, Chipping and Fading.

Recommended Primers: Mega Gloss Primers 8735 White, 8736 Black, 8737 Red, 8738 Grey.

Application: Brush, Spray or Roller
Roll: 3/8" - 1/2" nap mohair metal, lambskin, phenolic core roller. Keep roller wet. Roll in one direction, rewet, then cross roll. Product can be reduced as needed with Hi Flash Naptha to allow proper flow out and performance.
Spray: Conventional Air Gravity Feed 59-70 psi, Tip Size .055 - .070, Airless 2200 - 2500 psi, Tip Size .013 - .017. Product can be reduced with Xylene as needed for proper flow out and performance. For Air Spray reduce 25% with enamel reducer (Xylene).

Surface Preparation: Water blast surface to remove all loose paint, dirt, oils and grease. Abrade with 240 grit dry sandpaper or equivalent. Solvent wipe down to remove all sanding residue. Prime with Mega Gloss Primer for best results.

Pot Life: Not Applicable

Shelf Life: Maximum 12 months

Mixing: Mechanically mix for 10 minutes, making sure that all solid material is mixed thoroughly.

Package: 1 gallon cans, 5 gallon cans, quarts.

Cleanup: Xylene for Equipment.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26885
02/10/07 11:24 AM
02/10/07 11:24 AM

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Okay I've been picking through this post for months now and am ready to get going on paint. It's still in the 20's here so I'm not able to do a thing yet, for months probably.
I'm going with rustoleum professional because I have a two tone car and it gets expensive to buy that brightside stuff. Looks like with care the rustoleum pro works well. I'll thin it to the consitency of milk (whole,? 2% skim?) and roll it on with a foam roller and knock down any bubbles with the light touch of a dry roller.

It's glossy white over glossy almond and the original is a beige so it should be close with 8 coats.

Are you guys doing one body panel at a time? Do you recommend doing one body panel to completion and seeing how it looks and then doing the others all at once or one at a time? Obviously can't sand and paint at the same time.

Comments?

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26886
02/10/07 12:18 PM
02/10/07 12:18 PM
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Quote:

Are you guys doing one body panel at a time? Do you recommend doing one body panel to completion and seeing how it looks and then doing the others all at once or one at a time? Obviously can't sand and paint at the same time.




I did the whole truck for each coat.
But I do recommend doing a sample panel before starting, I didn't and ended up with to thick of paint on first coat which I sanded off and started over.
The learning curve is very fast and easy though.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26887
02/10/07 12:27 PM
02/10/07 12:27 PM
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I started out doing just the front fenders on my car. Then I did the hood, then the body of the car. Now in the winter, I am working on doing other body parts. I am using Rustoleum, and I don't see any issues doing it however it makes sense for you. I am however going to wait until I have the whole car put back together to do the final wet sanding, that seemed to make the most sense for me, so that I get everything looking the same when it is done.

Hope this helps.

Gerbs

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: v8mirage] #26888
02/10/07 07:03 PM
02/10/07 07:03 PM

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question about overnight moisture ,

I live close to the beach ,
we normally get overnight moisture nightly,

Problem is I am doing my Dodge van roof so it will not fit in the garage ,

So if I do it in the evening it will likely get wet overnight,
if I do it first thing in the morning the roof will be wet still,

where I need to park there is no sun till 9am or later because the sun is behing the 3 story buildings

any ideas ?

thanks for your help

Beaulieu

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26889
02/10/07 07:16 PM
02/10/07 07:16 PM
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Beaulieu, are you originally from Canada, there are a lot of folks with that last name here in Manitoba Canada, mostly of French Canadian background. BTW good luck on your roll project, I have done a few test pieces with this method, using Tremclad. It has always been very good results, I am still working on my 48 Mopar coupe, when the body work is done I will give a roll, literally..........C38coupe

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26890
02/11/07 01:02 AM
02/11/07 01:02 AM
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Quote:

question about overnight moisture ,

I live close to the beach ,
we normally get overnight moisture nightly,

Problem is I am doing my Dodge van roof so it will not fit in the garage ,

So if I do it in the evening it will likely get wet overnight,
if I do it first thing in the morning the roof will be wet still,

where I need to park there is no sun till 9am or later because the sun is behing the 3 story buildings

any ideas ?

thanks for your help

Beaulieu




I can see the ocean from my kitchen window are you any closer? I've had zero problems. I think its because we are warm enough.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69DartGT] #26891
02/11/07 11:47 AM
02/11/07 11:47 AM
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ok i'v been reading this post for awile and would like to add my two cents. i painted my race car in one hour. never painted a car before. i use dupont paint, 1995 stealth pearl yellow, yellow base coat pearle coat then clear coat all in one hour cleaning the gun between each coating, i used a hvlp type system. it was so easy, no runs because it dries fast,10 minutes tops,did this in my garage and had no over spray with this gun and uses 1/3 the paint they recomend. i wet sanded with 1500 two hours later and it was beautiful. i just can't see why you guys would go to all that trouble to paint that way. total cost(with too much paint i can paint two more cars with what i got left) was 650 dollars,all paint, it is so easy, real hard to make a mistake. if u can use a rattle can you can do this.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: cudaman1969] #26892
02/11/07 02:57 PM
02/11/07 02:57 PM

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Cudaman,

Which HVLP setup did you use?

Thanks,

Luis

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ #26893
02/11/07 03:08 PM
02/11/07 03:08 PM
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Luis, i have the Croixe,hope i spelled that right, had it about 16 17 years. this has the varible pressure at the gun on the hose, just an on off valve where as the newer ones don't have these. you can turn it down to nothing. has .07 .10 .14 mm nozzle with .10 .14 caps. it will spray anything from mud to thinner

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: cudaman1969] #26894
02/11/07 03:41 PM
02/11/07 03:41 PM
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Cudaman,

I know I could do it with a gun BUT, I chose the roller method for a lot of reasons:
1) I don't have an HVLP gun
2) I don't have an air compressor that can support an HVLP gun
3) I don't have any respirator equipment
4) I don't have anyplace big enough move around free enough to spray a car, and then $650 is way more than I can afford for paint at this time. Not to mention about another $1000 for all the other equipment, listed above, I don't have.

These are the same reasons that most everyone else doesn't spray their cars as well. At this point for me, that $1000 or more listed about what it will take to get my car on the road, if I spend it on just paint, I might have a conventionally painted car, but it still won't be roadworthy. If I roller it I can get it roadworthy, AND have a decent looking car.

Gerbs

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: v8mirage] #26895
02/11/07 08:07 PM
02/11/07 08:07 PM

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Quote:

Cudaman,

I know I could do it with a gun BUT, I chose the roller method for a lot of reasons:
1) I don't have an HVLP gun
2) I don't have an air compressor that can support an HVLP gun
3) I don't have any respirator equipment
4) I don't have anyplace big enough move around free enough to spray a car, and then $650 is way more than I can afford for paint at this time. Not to mention about another $1000 for all the other equipment, listed above, I don't have.

These are the same reasons that most everyone else doesn't spray their cars as well. At this point for me, that $1000 or more listed about what it will take to get my car on the road, if I spend it on just paint, I might have a conventionally painted car, but it still won't be roadworthy. If I roller it I can get it roadworthy, AND have a decent looking car.

Gerbs




Mega dittos! I could afford the $1600 for the stuff, but I would rather spend it on other stuff right now. I am semi-retired and I got more time than money, so I put in the time instead.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: 69DartGT] #26896
02/11/07 10:33 PM
02/11/07 10:33 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

Are you guys doing one body panel at a time? Do you recommend doing one body panel to completion and seeing how it looks and then doing the others all at once or one at a time? Obviously can't sand and paint at the same time.




I did the whole truck for each coat.
But I do recommend doing a sample panel before starting, I didn't and ended up with to thick of paint on first coat which I sanded off and started over.
The learning curve is very fast and easy though.





I agree completely also... I did the whole McLaren with each coat.

But I also agree that it is worthwhile to get a scrap door or trunk or whatever and practice your technique and your concoctions ( mixes ). This will help you get it worked out on some unimportant piece. When you move on to the full body per coat it will be a breeze.

Probably the best 'logic' for why you should do an entire vehicle in one coating session... is to ensure an eveness of the color for all the panels.

For example, lets say you do a panel at a time... you might have variances in your paint mixture. You might end up where you will see variances in the color between panels. But if the same paint is laid on an entire vehicle coating... then the whole car will have the same color.

Always remember that between 'lots' of paint there are variances in the color. I know when I was buying my Brightside paint, I deliberately picked and chose the cans with almost similar 'lot' numbers. You will find a fine print on the bottom of each can that identifies when that dye lot was prepared.

This is similar to balls of wool used for knitting. There are sometimes significant variances between the 'lot' or 'dye' numbers. And if you were knitting a sweater it is better to buy all your wool in one shot.. rather than get halfway though knitting that sweater and then having to go back to a store to buy additional wool to complete it. The odds are that the later purchased 'lot' of wool will not be identical to your initial lot.

Another variance in the paint can happen simply by the way you mix it up prior to using it. The paint pigments tend to settle. In the case of the Brightside Firered and the Tremclad Fire Red, a can of paint that has sat too long will show a slip of black floating around at the top when you first open the can. At the bottom of the can you will find a denser layer of 'solids' then say at the middle or top of the can. If you only do a half-a$$ stirring of one can and a thorough stirring of a second can, then you will inadvertently cause a variance in the end color.

.


.

Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........ [Re: cudaman1969] #26897
02/11/07 10:48 PM
02/11/07 10:48 PM
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Quote:

ok i'v been reading this post for awile and would like to add my two cents. i painted my race car in one hour. never painted a car before. i use dupont paint, 1995 stealth pearl yellow, yellow base coat pearle coat then clear coat all in one hour cleaning the gun between each coating, i used a hvlp type system. it was so easy, no runs because it dries fast,10 minutes tops,did this in my garage and had no over spray with this gun and uses 1/3 the paint they recomend. i wet sanded with 1500 two hours later and it was beautiful. i just can't see why you guys would go to all that trouble to paint that way. total cost(with too much paint i can paint two more cars with what i got left) was 650 dollars,all paint, it is so easy, real hard to make a mistake. if u can use a rattle can you can do this.




If I had the equipment I too might have considered doing a spray job. But unfortunately those are not items that I have sittiing idly available to me. The roller method does not require a big buck investment in that part of the paint job...

The question that struck me... is that almost all of the cars being rolled in this discussion are 'street' cars... 'daily drivers'... and two recreation vehicles.. a dune buggy and a mudder.

I am not sure how finicky you are with a 'race car' concerning the final look of your paint job. If it was a 'show and go' street rod.. you might be finicky about how the paint looks... but if the 'race car' is a Saturday night special for doing drags at the strip, your needs for appearance might only be a 20 or 50 footer. ( ie so that the car looks good to the fans in the stands ) but would not bear up to close scrutiny at 5 or 10 feet.

I have seen some 'race prepared' strip cars, done by local garages that were 'sprayed' and their primary concern was to just get a uniform color onto the body panels. Whereas gloss, shine and minimal orange peel were not a big concern to them.

So it might help to see some pics of the race car ane a clarification of what level of finish you wanted from that sprayed on paint job.

As for me... IF I had the bucks to buy the right equipment, I too might be very tempted to go the spray route. But I don't... so I can't...

.

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