stock one

heavy modified.

no tie for this and I dont like the small headlights on this one and prefer the character of the original stuff more than the common ribbed look. However, my hood may look beter with some ribs or something in it.

Dave

My new best friend- the air chissel. After 45 minutes of scraping and fighting the tar and realizing its better cold. I used an air chissel to break it off in literally seconds. I still have to get some off, and then sand it so I never have a tar smell, but it will eventually bepainted and covered with carpet or upholstery.

Dave

almost there/.

NOW, tonights Martini will be to sit and look at the trunk and decide how to build an interior Cigar humidor and martini transporter and fab all that into the back to look COOL!!!

DAVE

well, more tar under the seats but that ok, its all gone now. Time to relax for the day. Tired and need my martini.

Dave

I think I will loose the ribbing, ir metal pieces that run through the dash, fix the drivers side to accept 5 gauges. The piece in the pic is for a console I am doing but you get the idea.

dave,

With the headlights and trim pieces, can you remove the trim pieces on the hood sides and replace them with your fire power valve cover cut outs? Then you could loose the trim on the bottom of the headlight stands and move them closerto the grill and as low as you can. That panel below the hood that the trim pieces are in can be removed from the car (at least my 39's did) and allow heat to exit from under the hood, which isn't a bad idea on long trips. After a couple of hours driving, the heat from under the hood started warming the inside of my 39 up. Granted, better insolation and ac would have probably helped....

Also, the 35-37 mounted the headlights on the fenders, and a 37 is the same body as the 38 (though different front fenders). Maybe you could rotate your headlights 90 degrees off the grill shell to the fenders and solve the high up look? Gene

Nice work Dave the trunk looks great

it looks like you have the street rod bug



how about this one

OK, I have two sets of these---hidden hinges, I bought them several eyars ago for another project and never used them. Are they hard to install? Anyone have experience with them. It would allow me to shave the three exterior hinges off of the car and make these doors swing either way____ correct.

what ya think. This one box was opened years ago and I hope all the parts are there, but the second box is sealed.

Dave

another shot

WHAT should I use for

trunk locks, latches, electric, ect???

door locks handles, shaved or leave original or more modern????

Electric window kit?

What new brake booster and pedal assembly? new or junk yard, what works if I go look in a yard. They are not prcy new, what to look for??

hood latches and hardware??? any suggestion? any luck with certain brands, items? or keep it stock and make them look pretty?

what seat companies or seats do you like that will fit, IE, STREET ROD SEAT COMPANIES OR MODERN SEATS FROM A YARD THAT CAN BE DONE???

What steering columns to consider and

Is Ron Francis a good company to consider getting my wiring from?

what sound deadener do you guys use? I see some self adhesive, what brands do you like.


Dave

Another set of question. The floor is very solid but is made up of several panels that are simply screwed into the floor or bolted into the firewall. Would you use these as is or weld them up and secure them????

Also, the firewall has all the old holes into it. I was going to fab in and fill all the holes. what holes will I need besides the steering column and brake booster. Is it safe to just fill everything and cut and adjust later when I decide what we will need? I wont know for sure where the steering column is going until the rack and new front suspension is in.

Also HIDING WIRES???????? I want it to be as clean as possible, what are the secretes behind hiding wires and routing them into the areas they go?????

Dave

floor panel shot

My personal preference is the clean and shaved look--hidden hinges and handles. Let the body be as CLEAN as possible and let the body lines do the talking. Unadorned...

I also agree, the small headlights don't look good. The SIZE of the originals is good, I just think they should be lower on the shell. However, I understand that creates quite the problem in making it happen.

As long as these hidden hinges will work for this application I will do the work ont he doors to make it right. SO as far as the art, you can loose the hinges on the exterior. I am just trying to spend wayyyyy tooo much or get to carried away as I tend to do that.

Now I am headng out to put all the brake lines and fuel lines on the 67 Dart as they just came in from my order at MATS. Cant wait to get it out of the way and running, so I can make room for the 38 body to come off, so I can do the frame and cross member. But mocking it up has both inspried me and taight me a lot about the car and what I need to put it together.

Dave

I never seen that hinge kit before I am assuming looking at it that its for the trunk?--Looks bulky but its hard to tell in photos with nothing for scale.

for a trunk release I have an electric release from a late 70's early 80's Mopar that I will use in my 39. Simple two wire setup and you can pick them up pretty cheap ($10 or less usually).

Firewall, with something as custom as what you are building I would recommend one of two approaches 1 - fill all the holes and drill out what you need when you get to needing them so they can be placed where you need them. 2- cut it out and start fresh, this allows you to recess the wall if needed for the 5.7 and provides a cleaner look because all the factory bends and ridges are removed.

Window and door lock kits are really a personal preference there are tons of economic options out there. When it comes time I planned look at some of the other websites dedicated to this era Plymouth and see if anyone has discovered a common modern retrofit for the window and wiper regulators (I assume you will run wipers).

With my 4-dr I will be leaving the external handles on the doors so I am not coming completely smooth. If you plan on shaving the handles I would say get the bearclaw latches and some good soliniods and wire it for poppers with a back up manual release.

Dave the car will probably go together and apart a few times before your done, that's just the way it works

"YOU" have to deiced if you want to do the hidden hinges(do the extra work) and then you have to figure out if you want them to open regular or suicide.

now when I go with suicide doors I like to make the window go down and reach inside to open the door, I dont like to have poppers on suicide doors because you could have a real mess if the door were activated while driving

and I always make sure befor I put the car in gear that I have the doors locked.

you can get a keyfob setup that will alloy you to put the window down and you can open the door only from the inside, that way you could always get out even if you had a dead battery. you also will need to have a way to get power to the battery(lugs like on a race car under the car someplace)
so if you have a dead battery you could still get the car jumped and get the windows down. to get to the battery...

I hope that was not confusing,I know what I was saying just not sure it reads right

and If you were to move the headlights down and do the work to the side panels maybe you could cut out the stock area and replace it with the chrysler fire power or some louvers just a thought but then you will be making new side panels(more work) it all depends on what your final goal is.

AIN'T THIS FUN!!!!!!! you can do whatever you want Ron...

Dave, so many questions!! Maybe that's why the yuppies haven't ventured over here!
DISCLAIMER! This is all personal opinion, not THE RULES!

Hinges: Look at the cars posted. The Red with Blue flames is the only one without. It's a lot of work, but does look nice. The guy doing the work or paying for it gets to choose.

Headlights: The Orange one with flames (notice it's the same car, different flames?) has smaller headlights mounted lower. He also took out the hood bulge, and replaced it with louvers.

Trunk lock: Electric is fine. The big 3 all had 'em. Just remember that if the battery is in the trunk, you want MANUAL! See other thoughts below.

Door handles: Shave them if you are doing the hinges. I prefer more stock, but as a body guy and the other choices you have made, it would match your build. Electric, same as the trunk, you want to be able to access without power.
Street Rodder has a few vendors that sell the solenoids and buttons.
Electric windows: Lil John Buttera did a cool deal, he had a remote that rolled down the window, allowing him to reach in to open the door. No outside buttons for the doors (theft resistant). Again, gotta figure out what happens when there is a battery problem. Also, it stinks in the rain.
Brake parts: Depends on if you want it up on the firewall (more lumps to smooth) or under the floor (where you need an access panel). Kits both ways, and junkyard stuff too. Best to get something that is easy to find and cheap. You don't want to use a 1971 only E body Hemi booster!
The major rod and Mopar brake guys can size a system for you. I went with 4 wheel disc, vacuum booster and M/C underfloor.

Hood latches/hardware: Stock will do or you can go crazy. Inside releases, Hinges that open all sorts of ways, etc. That can wait until you have gotten closer to paint.

Seats: There are a few Rod seat vendors. Most are big bucks. To save a few bucks and get it on the road sooner, try junkyard seats. The seat must be selected to make sure you fit and are comfortable, and you have good visibility. Then you mount the steering column! Don't forget being able to lay your arm on the door if that's required!
Steering columns: there are big buck billet columns or you can search for a stocker. If you have a few bucks, go for a tilt. After the early eighties, GM and Mopar used the same columns. Make sure you get the key! Also, if you want a floor shift, get a column without the shifter.
Wiring will depend on all the other components, but it makes sense to check with the wiring companies to see what they offer normally and what costs more. Ron Francis has a column in Street Rodder each month. Good Info.
Sound deadener: The name brand is dynamat. There are others all the way down to stuff you get at Home Depot.

Other thoughts: It seems like you are heading toward a modern 90s and newer style rod. Flashy paint, modern drivetrain and suspension, body mods, A/C P/S, PDB, P/W, P/L. Great choice and will fit in well with Goodguys and other big meets. You may not be welcomed with open arms at more traditional meets. That's okay too. If you plan on showing or selling, the guys that buy this type of rod will KNOW and look for name brands. If you have XYZ brand seats, wiring, interior, insulation, wheels/tires, and other stuff, it will be more accepted. It will also cost more. It might even be a little easier to assemble, since these are known quantities that other builders are experienced with. However, there are a TON of little things that will require thought, discussion, modification and maybe even tossing out and starting fresh. That's what makes it your rod.

I'd suggest trying to find a bunch of old street rodder magazines and any others you can find. Hit the swap meets or advertise locally (you don't want to ship!) and try to find the guy that's clearing out a bunch. It will give you a better idea which vendors have been around a while, how to do stuff, and how others have done things. You can look at a car you think is ugly, but there will be one little detail that makes you go HMMMM.
Or it will have 3 things you will make sure you don't do on yours.