I think I am having problems with cooling system air lock on that 505 trick flow headed engine now?
Owner has a the universal flex type radiator hoses, and the upper seems too long and I think air might be getting trapped in it?
Car seemed to be overheating, so we changed thermostat, and replaced the "chrome" housing which was leaking under pressure with a stock thermostat housing.
Pressurized the cooling system, and it is holding pressure, so I don't think we have any leaks.
Using a IR Temp gun, the pump housing is around 190-200, but the radiator is way cooler, making me think the coolant is not circulating.
Had stock iron water pump housing, and stock replacement / rebuilt water pump.
Found two issues before I left yesterday.
#1 - The aftermarket gauges were reading high because they were connected to a bad ground. Suspected a bad ground when the voltage gauge was reading about 11 volts and when measuring at the battery, it was about 13.8 volts.
Added a ground wire from the battery to where the gauges were grounded, and not voltage reads correct, oil an temps are reading lower, So I think part of the "overheating" may have been false reading from the gauges?
#2 - Burped air out of the upper radiator hose. Seems air was being trapped in the hose.

Took the car for a short drive, and temps did climb to 190-200? with a 160 degree thermostat.
Really did not have (or fuel) for a longer drive.

Will have to see if temps stabilize, but I think replacing the upper radiator hose may help.
Not sure if a better water pump would help also?

I raise the front of the car about a foot on the initial fill and warm-up,
seems to help getting the heads clear of air pockets.
Did you try that?

Joe

#1 (as you know) find accurate temps with a good mech gauge.Then is it running too hot around town or on the highway (or both). Holler back when you can.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-g...ension-and-e-adapter-for-ford/255743_0_0

Colorado in July... I imagine it’s pretty toasty. You’d have to have the cooling system from h377 to keep that 160 thermo happy. I’d put a 180 if not 190 in. You “hope” that with heat exchange the tstat will close some and allow for heat transfer of the coolant in the radiator.

....and EVERYONE should have that funnel! It’s awesome!

That is a great idea!

The owner replaced the stock water pump with a 440 Source pump, refilled the cooling system with the front end in the air, and re-routed the trans cooler lines too, and now says it is running cool.

I know it's a little late for your engine now, but I've been putting a bleeder valve in the back of each head for quite some time now and that really speeds up radiator filling.

I've seen spring loaded push to release valves and they a little nicer looking, but I just use 1/8" radiator petcocks.

would you, by chance, have a pic or two of this ?

I don't have any on my computer at the moment, but i'll take a couple tomorrow.

Get yourself a vacuum radiator fill kit. You wont regret it

How do these work?
I just googled the kit.
It looks enticing

Down the production line at Chrysler the plant has a “evac and fill” process.

The operator attaches a line to the system then hits a button. The system vacuums the cooling system then once it gets to a certain value then allows coolant to flow to the system.

Service has a similar contraption on a more manual level.

They do that for speed on an assembly line, you guys are making this too difficult.

Joe

I try to put them as high in the water jacket as possible.

I'd like to bleed all four corners, but of course the stock distributer gets in the way. don't know if an msd might give a little more room since they're higher.


the one picture is of a future project indy-1 head and the other is the current engine indy-ez head.

The one I use attaches in place of the radiator cap.

Compressed air jet siphons the air out of the cooling system.

There is a gauge and when it reaches 20 - 25 inches of vacuum a valve is closed and the jet siphon is replaced with a suction hose. Dip the hose in the coolant, open the valve, cooling system fills by itself.

This is the only way to fill a modern cooling system. Also, if the vacuum doesn't reach 20-25 or bleeds off quickly you know there is a leak.

thank you for the pics !