Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2676190
07/10/19 10:25 AM
07/10/19 10:25 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,163 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
|
"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,163
PA.
|
I've learnt over the years to use tootsie rolls to do this.. on my B1 I could use the mill and a end mill but I had a lot to take out.. seldom do I ever use a alum cutter in a air grinder.. its to easy for it to wobble around the hole and it takes too much material off to quickly(I would rather use a steel cutting bit which is much easier to control I tried to tell him that in my post but others insisted on telling him to buy the single cut aluminum burrs. After a grinder wings out of control and you bend the burr it teaches you the right way. Slow and easy and it ends up looking like a professional did the job instead of a HACK. LOL
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#2676200
07/10/19 10:53 AM
07/10/19 10:53 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
I've learnt over the years to use tootsie rolls to do this.. on my B1 I could use the mill and a end mill but I had a lot to take out.. seldom do I ever use a alum cutter in a air grinder.. its to easy for it to wobble around the hole and it takes too much material off to quickly(I would rather use a steel cutting bit which is much easier to control I tried to tell him that in my post but others insisted on telling him to buy the single cut aluminum burrs. After a grinder wings out of control and you bend the burr it teaches you the right way. Slow and easy and it ends up looking like a professional did the job instead of a HACK. LOL I agree 100% with ya
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2676205
07/10/19 11:10 AM
07/10/19 11:10 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,356 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
|
"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,356
north of coder
|
I've learnt over the years to use tootsie rolls to do this.. on my B1 I could use the mill and a end mill but I had a lot to take out.. seldom do I ever use a alum cutter in a air grinder.. its to easy for it to wobble around the hole and it takes too much material off to quickly(I would rather use a steel cutting bit which is much easier to control I tried to tell him that in my post but others insisted on telling him to buy the single cut aluminum burrs. After a grinder wings out of control and you bend the burr it teaches you the right way. Slow and easy and it ends up looking like a professional did the job instead of a HACK. LOL I agree 100% with ya don't forget to use a grease of your choice when using burrs. it will prevent them from clogging up. tootsie rolls come in lots of grits, so start out with a rather course grit, then finish with 80 or 100. even finer if you are after a polished appearance. if starting as a nu-be, grab a chunk of scrap material to practice on, so you learn the nuances of your grinder, and the way a burr or tootsie roll cuts. use the shortest cutter you need to get the results you are after. this will prevent the dreaded bent cutter and out of control grinder. however, 6" long cutters are made for a reason. slow and steady beats 100k RPM and hackin' away every time.
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: TRENDZ]
#2676425
07/10/19 10:17 PM
07/10/19 10:17 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 732 USA
440mopar
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 732
USA
|
O.K., so I should get a double cut steel bit rather than an aluminum bit. You can’t be size on size with a burr bit. The bit always needs to be smaller than the radius, or you will get impossible to control chatter. If the hole is 1/2" diameter, what would you suggest for the diameter of the bit, 1/4", 3/8"? This is my first (and probably last) time doing this so please excuse my lack of knowledge on the subject.
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2676506
07/11/19 08:51 AM
07/11/19 08:51 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,206 New York
polyspheric
master
|
master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,206
New York
|
you may have the grinder vibrate out of your hand or break the shaft of the burr
And skip over to carve its name on something expensive... like a valve seat.
Boffin Emeritus
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: polyspheric]
#2676536
07/11/19 11:12 AM
07/11/19 11:12 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
Taking time off to work on my car
|
Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
|
My last comment / suggestion, which I'm sure overlaps w/ others' feedback above: 1. Use some type of speed controller if the grinder is limited to ON/OFF; you can even use a cheap light rheostat from Home Despot or what someone else mentioned from Harbor Fright. Regardless, you have to be able to slow the grinder speed to have some level of control 2. Use 3/8" OD sanding rolls to limit the amount of material being removed; get 60 or 80 grit, not the finer grits which tend to be more for surface finishing 3. Mark off where you think you need to remove material 4. Wear safety mask & goggles 5. Take your time -->
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: BradH]
#2677006
07/13/19 09:45 AM
07/13/19 09:45 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 732 USA
440mopar
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 732
USA
|
My last comment / suggestion, which I'm sure overlaps w/ others' feedback above: 1. Use some type of speed controller if the grinder is limited to ON/OFF; you can even use a cheap light rheostat from Home Despot or what someone else mentioned from Harbor Fright. Regardless, you have to be able to slow the grinder speed to have some level of control 2. Use 3/8" OD sanding rolls to limit the amount of material being removed; get 60 or 80 grit, not the finer grits which tend to be more for surface finishing 3. Mark off where you think you need to remove material 4. Wear safety mask & goggles 5. Take your time --> Sorry, but I have a few more questions. I just want to be sure I do this right. So I can use sanding rolls (like those that came with my Dremel) rather than a metal bit or in conjunction with a metal bit? Either way I'll have to try and get a long stem metal bit and/or a long stem bit for sanding rolls as mine are all short stem. I was going to use a Mikita rotary hand grinder I borrowed from a friend but it is single speed and it does seem pretty powerful so I will have to pick up a speed controller as well. Could a Dremel be used to do this or is it not powerful enough for this kind of job?
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: 440mopar]
#2677018
07/13/19 10:26 AM
07/13/19 10:26 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,163 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
|
"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,163
PA.
|
Not sure where you live but if you live close to Freeport, Pa. 16229 bring them over. I have everything here to fix you right up
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: 440mopar]
#2677777
07/15/19 08:39 PM
07/15/19 08:39 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439 Val-haul-ass... eventually
BradH
Taking time off to work on my car
|
Taking time off to work on my car
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
|
My last comment / suggestion, which I'm sure overlaps w/ others' feedback above: 1. Use some type of speed controller if the grinder is limited to ON/OFF; you can even use a cheap light rheostat from Home Despot or what someone else mentioned from Harbor Fright. Regardless, you have to be able to slow the grinder speed to have some level of control 2. Use 3/8" OD sanding rolls to limit the amount of material being removed; get 60 or 80 grit, not the finer grits which tend to be more for surface finishing 3. Mark off where you think you need to remove material 4. Wear safety mask & goggles 5. Take your time --> Sorry, but I have a few more questions. I just want to be sure I do this right. So I can use sanding rolls (like those that came with my Dremel) rather than a metal bit or in conjunction with a metal bit? Either way I'll have to try and get a long stem metal bit and/or a long stem bit for sanding rolls as mine are all short stem. I was going to use a Mikita rotary hand grinder I borrowed from a friend but it is single speed and it does seem pretty powerful so I will have to pick up a speed controller as well. Could a Dremel be used to do this or is it not powerful enough for this kind of job? I don't know that a Dremel is going to be the best tool for the job. The cutters are very small diameter and the sanding roll setup a Dremel uses will wear out far too quickly. The Makita with an inexpensive speed controller would allow for using "Tootsie rolls" on a shaft that will both last longer and enable you to reach farther into the pushrod tunnels to do the work.
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: BradH]
#2678918
07/19/19 12:15 AM
07/19/19 12:15 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
|
master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
|
I clearanced my stealths for 1.6’s last year. I don’t think a small tool like dremel will be what you want. A bigger tool not only will have the power you need, but I think it will be easier to hold steady and be consistent with. I used an electric die-grinder with a variable speed controller, both from harbor freight. They worked great. I also bought a burr kit from from Harbor freight, decided on a shape that gave me what I wanted and used WD40 as a cutting oil. It went much faster than I anticipated.
Now the part that may make some gasp, As I assume this is not recommended: I did all the cutting with the heads on the block, in the car. Call me lazy; call me cheap, but I just really didn’t want to pull my heads for a second year in a row. I knew I was taking a big chance, but once I had the valley blocked off with tape, paper, and rags, I was convinced I could keep debris out of the engine. Once I had the grinding done, I blew the heads as clean as possible with air before exposing the valley. then used atf to rinse and clean them real good when done. I then put assembly lube on the cam just to be sure upon startup, and did a series of oil changes until I was convinced it was clean.
My project turned out great, and a substantial performance gain was realized.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: StealthWedge67]
#2679333
07/20/19 09:06 AM
07/20/19 09:06 AM
|
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 732 USA
440mopar
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 732
USA
|
I clearanced my stealths for 1.6’s last year. I don’t think a small tool like dremel will be what you want. A bigger tool not only will have the power you need, but I think it will be easier to hold steady and be consistent with. I used an electric die-grinder with a variable speed controller, both from harbor freight. They worked great. I also bought a burr kit from from Harbor freight, decided on a shape that gave me what I wanted and used WD40 as a cutting oil. It went much faster than I anticipated.
Now the part that may make some gasp, As I assume this is not recommended: I did all the cutting with the heads on the block, in the car. Call me lazy; call me cheap, but I just really didn’t want to pull my heads for a second year in a row. I knew I was taking a big chance, but once I had the valley blocked off with tape, paper, and rags, I was convinced I could keep debris out of the engine. Once I had the grinding done, I blew the heads as clean as possible with air before exposing the valley. then used atf to rinse and clean them real good when done. I then put assembly lube on the cam just to be sure upon startup, and did a series of oil changes until I was convinced it was clean.
My project turned out great, and a substantial performance gain was realized. I wasn't planning on using a Dremel. I am going to use a Mikita electric die grinder as I mentioned previously and I picked up a speed controller to use with it. I was just askng if the sanding rolls that came with my Dremel were the type of tool that was being referred to in a prior post. I would just get better ones for use with the die grinder. I am going to do this with the heads on the motor as well covering up everything as you did. I have found long stem burrs for purchase but I haven't seen any long stem sanding roll bits anywhere. Anyone know where I can find one of those (if there is such a thing)?
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: second 70]
#2679368
07/20/19 10:33 AM
07/20/19 10:33 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,587 Great Neck,LI,new york
hemi-itis
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,587
Great Neck,LI,new york
|
On my latest refresh I believe I could use a set. Lol Over the years a burr on the block that should have been removed did a little polishing on my pushrod. Can’t feel it just shiny. That should FINE.
HEMI-ITIS has no cure. My condition is fully BLOWN!!
|
|
|
Re: Clearancing push rod holes
[Re: hemi-itis]
#2679390
07/20/19 11:24 AM
07/20/19 11:24 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,105 Byron, NY
W.I.N. Racing
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,105
Byron, NY
|
Terry Manton told me that 10 thou is all that's needed at it's closest point.It will act as a guide That's how I do it...it stabilizes the push rod by reducing deflection.
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60 '01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list '60 Willys CJ5 '01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison '64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
|
|
|
|
|