Anyone here chasing a starter clicking. I have purchased and installed 3 new starters 2 powermasters & 1 msd for BBmopar 572. All three work for about 5 to 8 starts. and usually
clicks in the staging lanes and makes a real issue for me because i usually race alone. Well anyway i installed powerglide last year with a ATI adapater . I never had this issue with
my 727. Last year car ran in mich during the summer no issues. Im in south florida now maybe temp is an issue ????. The neutral saftey switch on the pro rachet must be working
if starter still clicks right ???

I’d run a ground strap from the starter mounting bolt to chassis. If this were a starter you had for awhile I’d say open up the solenoid and take a look at the contacts, but obviously after 3 swaps..... that ain’t it.

I would be looking at the battery cables to the starter and ground?

When you put a powerglide behind a Mopar engine it’s never a bolt it on and go situation. Every setup is different and has to be setup for proper engagement. Some I had to cut the nose off, some needed a 1/2 inch shim, and some needed 1/8.

The starter gear contact to the ring gear needs to be looked at as he is saying, it should not bottom out or barely engage either
My S/P car had a 5/8 spacer for the starter to the mid plate on the car but I needed to reduce the thickness down to .270 ( 3 .090 steel spacers) to get the starter gear engaged in the center of the ring gear on my motor
My tranny is a older Reid Chevy SFI case cut up buy the previous owner to make the starter mount like the original Mopar mounted on the drivers side of the .090 thick mid plate using 3/8 bolts I had the bolts come loose at the last race two weeks ago, I replaced them with 7/16 bolts with a shoulder to help hold the starter better
I'm going to buy a adapter bell housing and cut the Chevy bell off to the tranny case to redo the starter mounting to avoid future problems

I had a chevy do that and it was the battery. Heat will kill a battery.

"machine gun" clicking at the starter is inadequate voltage (amperage) at the starter (solenoid) itself. Start at the beginning (battery) & work downstream including ground paths

Is all of the current for the solenoid being run through the NS switch? Stock starter relay?

Change it over to a Ford style relay, jumper on the starter for starter solenoid, type set-up. Fix the grounds, especially if you are using rubber mounts.

It may be a wiring issue. My brother has the Ford solenoid and his mini starter did it. Had to carry a small hammer around and tap the starter every so often. His buddy had him switch the wiring around and that solved it. I will ask him what he did to fix it...

Edit: Do you have a Ford solenoid in the car? They can be wired wrong and the car will still start sometimes, and sometimes not.

Hey neil
Thanks for your information. My starter is a mini and i do have that ford solenoid black relay and i have also used a hammer in the staging lanes to keep moving.
piease get back with me with a possible solution.

I'm guessing you have an alignment problem. If the starter is clicking but the bendix isn't throwing out its jammed. Could be the engagement / mesh is off and pushing the bendix off to one side, after a few goes it's enough to damage it and then jam.

The correct way is to run both big cables to the large post on one side, one from battery positive, the other to the main starter post. The opposite big post needs the small wire to the small post on the starter solenoid.

The incorrect way he had it before on the two big battery positive to one side of the large Ford solenoid post and the other to the big post cable to the main starter positive. This overheats the contacts inside the solenoid and makes them stick when the two large cables are on opposite sides of the Ford solenoid. Your car may not have a GM style relay like my brothers car has.

He did give me a diagram of it that I can scan and e-mail to you if you need it.

Sorry but this is definitely wrong. You are not using the ford solenoid for its intentions. the purpose is to put the load across the solenoid that's what they are designed for. on the starter run a wire from the large terminal to the small one, put the main battery terminal on one side of the ford solenoid the other go's to starter. So when it is activated it will power up the wire going down to starter.

From what I understand there is a "continuous duty" furd solenoid that you run the main cables on either side of it

A starter should be run with an "intermittent" duty unit. They are built for that purpose. And cables can be swapped either way on the main lugs. They aren't polarity sensitive. It's just a switch connecting the two together.

I'm the least knowledgeable wiring guy on the planet, but all I know is his mini starter would randomly click from time to time until the wires were changed around. It hasn't done it once since then, He had to leave it running in the staging lanes as it failed to start a couple times. Very embarrassing/annoying.

sure i would like a wiring diagram of your starter relay my email donaldh252@aol.com. Text 586 436 8122

Sent to your e-mail.

If you wire it the way you explain your only using the solenoid to activate the small wire which is then the same as what a mopar is already wired to do.

The car that this has been done to is a late 60's GM a-body, and not a Chrysler product for what it's worth.

Maybe he can check the voltage on both sides of the solenoid and at the starter to see if the cables are bad?