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i have a question, i have gone through a disk grinder attachment, and a wire brush and some of the paint is EXTREMELY hard to get off. some parts of the car is down to the metal, but a good portion of it stil needs to be sanded down to bare metal. do i really need to go all the way down to the metal in order to paint it?

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Nope, but since you are down to bare metal in some spots then you really should continue until it is all down to the bare metal. Instead of sanding the hell out of it, you could also use some really strong paint stripper. Just don't use it in an enclosed area with a heater going.

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smyrna5, I like the color you mixed. Do the pics look close to the real thing?

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Exit/Marq, would you recommend using Rustoleum as the inital base coat to make everything 1 even color and then paint over it w/ a couple coats of Brightside for the final glossy coat? BTW, this is going from red ---> white.

I believe you could save some $$$ doing it this way? Can you guys think of any drawbacks by doing it this way?

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Exit/Marq, would you recommend using Rustoleum as the inital base coat to make everything 1 even color and then paint over it w/ a couple coats of Brightside for the final glossy coat? BTW, this is going from red ---> white.

I believe you could save some $$$ doing it this way? Can you guys think of any drawbacks by doing it this way?

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I would say that IF you are going from red to white AND you intend to have Brightside as your final skin you should start with Brightside.

My reason for this is as follows : Brightside has better coverage. In 'most' cases you should have 100% coverage by 4 coats... and 6 at a maximum. BUT if you use the Tremclad/Rustoleum and cut it with the mineral spirits ( as per the Charger recipee ) than it may take you 4 coats just to hide the red undersurface.

My other thought on this is that if I were now attempting to take my red car and turn it white, I would probably do my first coat of Brightside at 100% with no cutting with their thinner. I would let that coat thoroughly dry and harden... and hit it with a wet sanding to smooth it all out. I would then hit it again at 100% Brightside and no cutting with thinners. Again let it dry and harden thoroughly and do a very careful wet sanding to get that surface as smooth as I could.

At this point any evidence of the past red color should be pretty well gone..

At this point you would then lay down the next TWO coats of Brightside THINNED with the recommended thinner.

The trick to following this recipe for your particular circumstances ( going from a dark subsurface to a light colored surface ) is to nail down those first two layers as smooth as you can get it.

Otherwise you can instead fall back to the potentially safer route of just going at it from the start with the thinned down Brightside and just be prepared to do an extra coating or two before you get to the 100% coverage or masking of the red from being visible through the white.

Although there are no compatibility problems between the Tremclad/Rustoleum and Brightside, I would not go that route IF I had the chance to start with Brightside and end up with the final layer being Brightside.

The 'theory' behind my logic on that is this :

Brightside paint on Brightside paint results in the newest layer forming bonds between the polymers of the old layer of Brightside and the new layer of Brightside..... THIS results in the strongest possible bond between the two layers of paint.

WHEREAS if you put Brightside on topic of Tremclad/Rustoleum there is no polymer bonding - because Tremclad/Rustoleum doesn't have any in it. Instead you are relying solely on the adhesion qualities of Brightside to find pores or sufficient rough surfaces on the Tremclad/Rustoleum layer to grab hold of with its adhesion agents.

Fortunately Brightside has superb adhesion agents and it can stick to just about anything. But I hope you can appreciate that if you can get the polymers of the old layer of paint and the new layer of paint to bond, than you will have an even more solid adhesion. They basically become one layer and are not just two surfaces 'glued' togethers, but in fact have now become one intertwined layer.

Hope this helps without getting too confusing...

Marq

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