I agree with this 100%.

Not knowing what cam is in it I would
say that should idle at 900 rpm without any issue.. see if its dripping
fuel first thing
EDIT
is this car hard to start up.. you said the intake looks wet

[quote=varunner]I agree, easy to do.

no site plugs

in this day and age in stock, holes in butterflys I'm not worried about.

will definately lift the carb and if it drips. fuel pump pressure is 6 lbs.

What size needle and seats? 6lbs could be too much fuel pressure. On my 6 pack 340 for stock eliminator I am experimenting with .130 needle and seats with 3/8 line and 4 psi it cleaned up the idle on the run stand. What rpm do you have it idling at? There is a lot of duration in our camshafts not meant to idle.
Good Luck, Rod

This procedure really works great, done it many times myself...found things I both did, and did not want to find.

...rotten luck with warped parts.

Had you started out your thread by saying it was a stock eliminator engine it would've made more sense. Stock eliminator carbs tend to be a special breed. I've seen a few of them but I wouldn't know how to build one.

You might not have a problem, or at least not one that can be easily fixed. If the engine has a lot of reversion at idle then you'll have sooty plugs and a wet intake but the engine will run fine down the track. That is just the way it is. I've seen guys fix that by playing around with the valve job but that is another thing that I've only seen but not understood. Sometimes a very minor change to the valve job will clean up the idle without changing the power at WOT. A stock eliminator head guy might know how to do that.

I’ll add that my buddies Pontiac Stocker idles just fine with the Qjet....... but it was a learning process on what it took to make it that way.
Lots of modifications to the low speed circuits.

He has a variety of carbs....... and on one of them we had to remove the primary metering rods to get any kind of throttle response from it(this seems to be pretty common with Stocker Qjets).

He now knows what series of things need to get plugged, what things need to get drilled, etc.......to get it to run right.
It took some time to get it figured out.

I’d think/expect it to be easier with a Holley.

Thinking about it more......
Even Holleys with “2 corner idle” have a secondary idle circuit, it’s just fixed instead of adjustable.
If the secondary idle circuit had been richened up too much...... that could be part of the problem.

You’re sure the ignition isn’t compromised, and you’re running hot enough plugs?

Ok, to answer some questions. I have had the idle set at 1200 which seems about right, it eventually after a few runs drop down to 500-600. I feel this is because of the spark plugs are getting fouled up.

needle/seat is 120

I set the carb above the intake and ran the pump. nothing came out of the base of the carb. But the fuel pressure crept up from 6 to 8 lbs in a few minutes. Fuel cell is full, the pump has a return back to the cell. Came back a couple hrs later and re-did the test, pressure crept from 6-7. Once I start it I'll watch it and see what it does with the engine running.

changed the oil and plugs.

After to talking to the guy who built the carb, he feels removing the power valve will lead to more problems, so I leave leave the 2.5 PV in for the weekend TnT at vmp

Dwayne, after I last talked to you. I re-did the intake gaskets as I thought a leak there might be contributing to the spark plug issue. I went to budds creek and improved from a 12.61 to a 11.79/111 1.56 60ft. convertor flashed to 5K The only changes w ere intake gaskets and spark plugs. I can deal with a less than stellar idle, but fuel in the oil and the plugs drenched in gas needs to get addressed.

yeah it could be just a lot of mods that will be needed. ignition seems fine, locked out at 38. plugs are what you had recommended. I hadn't thought about hotter plugs.....

plug and carb

For whatever reason that thing is pig rich. Everywhere. I suspect when you get the idle circuit cleaned up and work on main jet, you'll find you'll need a power valve that opens way sooner than 2.5 or even 4.5. That's too late for most engines.

Those are 4150 carbs(rear metering block instead of metering plate) from the factory?
I didn’t realize that.

The ifr situation on the primary block doesnt appear to be the same as the typical “performance” Holley carb.
Does it utilize an emulsion tube in the main well?

I’m not sure if an aftermarket billet metering block would fly or not....... but I think I’d try and find out.

That plug looks as though there’s fuel “running” out of the carb....... did you try seeing if anything was dripping with the pump running?

You didn’t fog the motor after the last outing did you?

The plugs are 6’s?

If it's anything like the OEM 383 Holley I had years ago, it would not have come with a secondary metering block and the primary block would have had a tube in the main well. What's legal to replace for carb tuning purposes in Stock? A standard 650 DP primary block and an aftermarket 4160-type plate (not a conversion block) that allows for adjustable circuits might be easier to work with.

I just saw you had answered a few questions......

So, if fuel isn’t leaking through the carb statically, it would point a finger at what appears to be a gross calibration issue.

With the motor warmed up and idling at 1200....... can you kill it by turning the mixture screws in?

When the idle starts to slow down from presumably being rich..... does turning those screws in help?

When you say the distributor is locked....... that means “locked”....... not there is super weak springs in it, right?

With .120 n/s, you can probably drop the pressure to 5-ish.

When it’s warmed up and idling at 1200, if you look down the Venturi there should be no fuel dribbling from the boosters.

Glad to hear you’re making headway with it.

This is supposedly a pic of a 71 383HP carb.

A little out of the ordinary(if the pic is of the correct carb).
4160 series(no rear metering block), with down leg boosters.

Brian....... does yours have the same style boosters?
Front and rear?

Okay...... we may be getting somewhere.......

If what’s said in this thread is true....... then some serious reworking of the low speed circuits would have had to be done for this application......
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/pic-request-1971-383hp-with-factory-holley.97491/

When I see shiny plugs I try to fix the oiling issue first
Once that is cured you can work on the proper AFR and circuits

easy to start

On the secondary metering block, my carb guy asked if I wanted one, he said some guys do it some don't , so I said sure do it. Supposedly only advantage is changing jets. If it doesn't fly I'll remove and put a plate on it. I have another carb getting done without it. So with a plate how do you richen or lean it out ? different plates or can you modify it ?

the oil had been there, that is why is changed gaskets on the intake. I'd say it is sealed well. Leak down and compression is good.

Dwayne,

plugs are 6

distributor has no spring, plates located.