I designed up some simple little plates that can be welded into the end of the K frame to use as tie down points. I added a pair to my Duster and they seem to work just fine so I'll put these up on the website if anyone else wants them. They do need to be welded into the K frame which can be a dirty nasty job. I had my K frame out of the car and clean when I did the weld so it was easier.

Those look nice Andy. Simple yet effective. What are the 3 angled tabs at the front of the core support?

That a grate idea i'm going use it on my new build

The tabs support the spoiler.

I just used 5/16" exhaust U-bolts.. easy and thats what I had around
the shop

I just use two of these - wrapped around the k frame - on the front part of the “u” shaped portion of each end.
Then criss cross the actual tie downs.

Car can bounce but never moves side to side. We’ve been doing this since we stopped flat towing over 45 years ago.

Welding on hold down points may work for race cars - won’t for the restos and trailer queens.

From that location can you criss cross the tie downs without them rubbing? Tie downs should always be crossed to prevent side to side movement.

One lays on top of the other but they don’t rub.

If they were available on the website I’d buy them. I really wish you’d sell directly because not one of your vendors sells all of your stuff. There is quite a bit of your stuff I want but it seems no one has it.

From the pic it looks like the tie down would rub on the core support. Maybe it is the angle of th pic.

I just fitted a QA1 "K" member to the Challenger. Unfortunately it didn't have the tie downs fitted, "photograph for illustration purposes only" I'm guessing.

If the car moves up & down during transport it is working the shocks.When you get to where you are going touch the shocks and see if they are warm or HOT!
Tie the car down so it squats down on the shock and it will use the the suspension of the tow vehicles.
A race car,,,,,,it will require rebuilding the shocks sooner.Have you looked at the price of date coded shocks for like..........a hemi car 440-6 or MW????????

When you "criss cross" the tie downs you kind of defeat the purpose of a tie down ratchet strap deal. When you arrange the tie downs straight from the anchor points your car is more stable and if one strap breaks or comes loose the other strap pulls straight and will still keep the car from coming off the trailer. I see guys crossing the straps and I wonder if they ever looked at the basic physics of what would happen if one strap broke. Hook them up straight and it will be safer
Flame on cross strappers

Gus

If one strap broke you aren’t maintaining your equipment.

Cross strapped keeps the car from moving sideways in the trailer.

No flame.

When you "criss cross" the tie downs you kind of defeat the purpose of a tie down ratchet strap deal. When you arrange the tie downs straight from the anchor points your car is more stable and if one strap breaks or comes loose the other strap pulls straight and will still keep the car from coming off the trailer. I see guys crossing the straps and I wonder if they ever looked at the basic physics of what would happen if one strap broke. Hook them up straight and it will be safer
Flame on cross strappers
[/quote]

2 guys I race with in the last year agreed with this theory. 2 cars (one 2 separate incidents) weren't cross tied and slid over in the trailer and did body damage. I personally had one slide over many years ago on a trip from Detroit to Memphis. Got lucky all that was required was to move it on a floor jack away from the wall to get the car out. Never towed without cross tying again. If a strap breaks either it's old and rotted, or wrapped around something sharp and got cut. I've been towing close to 35 years. Never had a car come loose, or strap damage after learning to cross tie. My towing isn't limited to the local track, most are 3-9 hrs.
Doug

I've towed a bunch of Mopar race cars, A,B and E body tied down with four straps with no cross overs, they are on a angle from the race car to the outside edge of the trailer tie down brackets though, as well as with cross overs and saw no differences in crossing them
I'm talking over 50,000 miles towing in twenty years + of racing
I did wreck one race car and trailer when I first started towing cars on trailers with a 1/2 ton pickup with no brakes on the trailer
That deal was plain stupidity on my part, I used a come along on the front of the car hooked onto the stock street hemi K member and a single small dog type chain on the rear to hold it I hit a dog that ran out in front of us going to the races and lost control of the pickup trying to hit the brakes and avoid running over the dog, my wife and the gal that owned and drove that car where in the truck with me , the dog got jammed up in the right front wheel well and that ended up jerking the steering wheel out of my hands and that caused the trailer to jack knife when I hit the brakes really hard locking them up trying to avoid going into a ditch on the other side of the road, the little tie down chain broke and the car ran over the trailer stops and ended up on the bed of the truck almost running into the cab before rolling over off to the passenger side of the truck
We where very lucky that no one was coming at us on the other side of the two lane road and none of us got hurt
The car was totaled and it hurt the right rear fender and the bed of my truck but not bad enough to be make it unusable, it bent the tonque on the trailer also but I was able to tow it home and get it fix
No matter what method you choose to use tying your race cars down be very CAREFUL when towing them

Cab - read your first paragraph again.

I have tie down loops welded right to the frame rails. My 69 is setup this way also. Keeps the car from bouncing in the trailer, and I know it not moving.

THESE TIE DOWNS LOOK HEAVY....