Should I use RTV gasket maker in addition to the gasket between block and housing? Also, should I use anti-seize on the bolts through to the block? If so what product is the most reliable?

Thanks everyone.

There are better products for sealants than RTV ANYWHERE! on an engine, IMO.

I use HI-Tack (the red spray or brush-on) on most of my gasketing with good results, I clean first with Brake-Klean, then apply a coating on both sides of the gasket.

As far as anti-seize, not a bad idea with dis-similar metals, but for Iron/steel applications, I clean the fastener, then apply a SMALL amount of oil to the threads.

Joe

Anything that goes into the water jacket I usually use Teflon tape on it. To keep them from corroding together. Been a long time since I farted about with a big block so I don;t recall which, if any, of the water pump bolts go into water.

But on an LA there are a couple real long ones that are notorious for snapping off when you try to remove them.

Now if they go into a dry hole then oil is all. I believe the FSM torque specs are predicated on the threads being lubed with 30 wt.

On dry holes I dip the threads in 30 wt oil then blow em off with shop air (never hurts to chase the block threads with thread chasing taps). As said most any gasket cement will work fine on the block gaskets in question (no RTV). Indian head cement with the shoe polish applicator is convenient. I always like the Permatex "high tack" red spray (its real thin) but the last several cans I bought spewed out bits of red "material", not sure what was up with that.

I would use a single edge razor blade gasket scraper on the block and water pump faces to clean them up to make sure there is no gasket or rust on them and then use a good gasket adhesive only to hold the gaskets on the block or water pump housing and make sure the block bolt holes are clean with no rust or debris in them so the bolts will screw in by hand so you get a good torque reading when tightening them down
As far as the threads on the bolts and in the block oil or anti seize will both work to prevent corrosion

problem with using antisieze on bolts who's torque spec is based on 30wt being the specified lubricant is that you can over torque them.

when doing water pump housings, or the pump itself, i first make sure the mounting surfaces are clean and dry. i then use just a small amount of adhesive on the housing gaskets that face the housing, and the same on the pump [gasket facing the pump]. then, a thin smear of white grease on the gasket[s] facing the block, the same for the gasket surface facing the housing.
all bolt holes chased with either a form [roll] tap, or chaser tap. then, a light smear of hi-temp anti-seize on all bolt threads.
i know it's not correct, but i just use a short handle [average length] 3/8 ratchet to tighten up the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. never had a leak doing it this way for over 50yrs, and easy to disassemble as well, with no broken or stuck bolts.
remember, this is just my way [which is technically wrong].
your mileage may vary.

1 thing we have done is to cut off the heads of some the longer mounting bolts... Now these provide a nice slip-on guide for the gasket so it doesn't slide around, slide the water pump housing onto the (2) guide bolts next use the final bolts and take out the guide bolts... Simple but assures a good install...

Just my $0.02...

I like that.

Me too

Remember on an LA engine when reinstalling the timing chain cover to install the balancer before tightening up the bolts on the cover/WP. You want the seal to be centered on the crank snout.

If you don't disturb the cover when replacing a WP you don;t need to worry about it. But those long bolts that like to seize up and snap off I mentioned above will require removal of the timing cover to fix.

X2, I get it halfway on to center it