Do you have studs or bolts on your valve covers? If you have studs you MAY have trouble getting the passenger's side valve cover off.

My car flexes enough that if I jack it up and take the weight off the front suspension, the valve cover can be removed. I do have valve cover studs.
If it's sitting w/ the weight on the tires, the cover contacts the shock tower when I try to lift it off.
Hopefully yours doesn't do this since you have snout bars on your cage...wish I'd done that.

Not to ME
OP, you know it will hit the fender well when revved up in neutral, let alone when at WOT
I like to see a 1/4 inch + clearances on that, those cast aluminum valve covers will grow out and up when heated up more than you think
Now get to work fixing it before it marks up the fenderwell and valve cover

Bolts on the valve cover and yes I plan to clearance the shock tower. Really glad that I converted to GERST suspension so I don't need the shock tower. Now the real question is if I'll be able to get 1/4 without scratching the paint!

Cab....I was speaking on the build it self, the valve cover is a little to tight for my likings. but i'm sure the op will address that consider this a don't what this thread to get lost.

The thread won't get lost! I'm a pic/post [censored]!

I shortened the Engine Plate and sealed it to the water pump. I also added the bypass mod with a threaded insert to adjust the orifice size. Currently at 1/8 per the other thread on this board.

I can't be the only one who has to remove the shock to get the valve cover off am I? LOL

Even with studs removal sucks.

Nope, I forgot to mention that I have to take the shock loose and push the shock stud down out the way.

I have family in town this weekend and won't get any garage time. I'm going to try to pull the valve covers when I get a chance. I'll be sure to snap pics and update the thread.

I might start a new thread for the induction. I "think" that I want the new Sniper 4500 fuel injection. However, I haven't read many success stories, and Thumper Carbs appear to be pretty bullet proof. I'll probably to the exhaust or cooling system next and think on this one a little.

From what I've heard so far, I'd wait a while on the EFI. Put a good carb on it and enjoy it...later on when more of the bugs are worked out of these EFI systems, maybe.

This was the closes thing to an "Easy Button" that I've found for my car. I just had to drill a couple holes:

http://www.speedcooling.com/26-Big-Block-Mopar-Radiator-Dual-Fans.html

Welcome to the real world of owning and having to work on a 426 Hemiroid motor in a stock B body, same thing on E bodies on shoving the passenger side shock stud down to remove that valve cover even with the stock stamp steel OEM valve covers

Can you measure the depth of that setup from the core support to the nose of the fans? It looks great and the price is nice too.

~7.5 inches from the support to the back of the fan motors. I was able to center the water pump between the fans to gain clearance. My car must have had the smaller radiator as I had to drill holes and use 1/4in spacers between the support and radiator mount:

Project is coming up nice !!

X 2 on the carb till you get it dialled / enjoy the car and there are some success stories out there with the Sniper 4500 "EFI"

Apparently Instagram stopped the hot linking of images. Does anyone have a good pic hosting site?

Let me know if you guys can see these pics!

Looks like TTI headers to me

Yes! You can see the pics! What a pain in the rear, but I'm sure a few of you guys feel the same after FB bought Photobucket and screwed up everything.

2-1/4 primary, 4in collector, O2 bungs. I'm running CNC ported Indy SR heads so I had to special order the 4in collector option on the HEMI625-214 for Coil Over Suspension. O2 bungs are to keep my induction options open. I'm considering the Sniper 4500.

I've been using https://imgur.com/

It took a little while to figure out how to use it, but I'm pretty happy with it.

Me too on the Imgur