If so, what's the point of having a Slap-Stick shifter? I've heard this from several sources, but always thought bu11$#i+.

I had heard it too (its not the best). Lets see what John and Transman have to say.

Only on the 1-2 upshift on a stock trans, the rear band is applied in manual low,to assist the overunning clutch, and does not release fast enough when shifting to second.

Without rear servo mods the rear band will wear prematurely with repeated manual shifting.

Transgo has a spacer to make the rear servo piston solid. Is that, along with a 5.0 lever, which I would assume would slow down the front band apply, be enough? I had that setup in a Coronet. Rippin second gear, and it was tire spin, not lockup. Sold the car, so I have no idea about longevity. There's a no rear band apply in first, but that might be annoying.

Yes its bad if the 727 is stock. Back in the day (1969) I use to manually shift my 727 a lot. After about 2 years I lost 2nd gear in it. Lucky for me Chrysler had that 5 year/50,000 mile warranty back then, so it got fixed for free.

Strange they would market the Slap Stick shifter then.

I have always manual shifted everyone of my muscle cars never with any issues. My Charger I have had going on 29 years this summer with no issues and cruise 1000''s of mile every year.

Maybe a dumb question, but if it has as full manual VB, is it still "harmful" without other mods?

With a MVB there is no other way to do it. I think that if the trans. is slamming gears hard that it would be more painful for things, especially with good traction. I don't know that a 727 will eat itself with factory type shifts. Set up correctly they are tough!

Yes, take it easy on the tranny. Don't have fun, save it for the next guy.

In my opinion the Slap Stick was to be used in for wide open throttle situations not everyday driving. If I remember correctly my 71 Challenger shifted at 4,500 so so on its own and needed to rev higher for max performance.

The cars of today seem to shift at the right spot on their own.

Never gave much thought about the rear band release on the stock trans, but I did break a rear band on a stock 727 along time ago.
I have been using the TransGo shift kits that modify the rear servo, and have not had any problems, except maybe additional wear on the rear drum?
With the stock valve body, with or without shift kit, the only way to get low band apply to help protect the sprag is in manual low.
If you do a burnout in drive or second (with stock type valve body) the trans will start off in "low-breakaway" with only the rear sprag holding the rear drum. With stock valve body, it is safer to start a burnout in manual low and then shift into second gear. The often quoted "do burnout in second gear" was the instructions from the full manual valve bodies.

A long time ago, we used to manual shift trying to make the car sound like it had a manual tranny. You know, accel a bit in first, let off, then hit the throttle just as the tranny goes to second.

I have beat the fiber thrust washers out of several trannies doing that.

But I have not seen any problems manual shifting the trannies without letting off the throttle and banging into the next gear. And we frequently manual shifted while just driving around and always manual shifted when racing.

This.

They were not intended for regular manual shifting. They were intended to allow easier manual shifting at wot, and to give the wannabes something like a manual transmission feel.

Personally someone would have to explain to me what would be damaged. The 2/3 shift overlaps on many transmissions without noticeable wear or damage. Besides 1/2 overlap what could be the cause? What damage? Extra wear on the servo bore? Band wear? I've never seen a worn out rear band on any 727 I've taken apart. Thrust washer wear isn't really a big issue either, usually minimal.
Doug

I would think it is harder on the band if manually "down shifting"?
I don't think starting in manual low and "up shifting" would be as hard on the band?

Sort of a moot point to me. I haven't had much issues with manually shifting the trans, and the 727 is easy to rebuild.

Our experiences have been a bit different in a couple areas. I have seen many, many TFs with a 2-3 flair due mostly to the 2-3 overlap. And I have seen quite a few thrust washers beat out due mostly to letting off the throttle and then banging into second.

But, the OP asked about manual shifting our automatics. Other than a couple of bad techniques that should be avoided, it is no big deal. Have done it on a regular basis with virtually every tranny I have ever had.

The rear band application in manual low was not intended to protect the ORC, it was intended to provide engine braking.

As for wear, any band or clutch sees more wear on the application than the release. It’s bringing a moving element to a stop. Just like brakes do. Do your brakes wear out from releasing or applying them?

EVERY 727/904 releases the band on the 2-3 whether a manual or auto. Using some of the logic being used here - it should wear out very quickly. But how many front bands get “worn out” in normal applications?

They live many years and many thousands of miles.

As for not releasing fast enough - I think there is confusion because some people focus on manual shift valve bodies with rear band apply not releasing fast enough and causing overlap. A street trans and race trans are two different things.

With the stock rear servo, the band releases in stages because of the spring-loaded plunger in the piston center, and therefore makes the rear band all-spring release different than the front band spring-assisted hydraulic release; IOW, there is more drag when the rear band releases. The analogy to brakes only applies if the driver doesn't fully release the pedal.

In relation to the OP's question, I assume he is talking about manually upshifting since he mentioned the Slapstick. Of course, manually downshifting to low on a regular basis will produce more band wear from applying than releasing. On normal manual upshifting the rear band is applied at a dead stop.