He doesn't need an intake for a 4500, here's a pic of a 1050 that's not a 4500 and will bolt right on his intake.

Reality check here: You cannot compare a 1.58" v x 1.75" t 4150 "1050" with a 1.72" v x 2.0" t 4500 "1050". Doesn't matter what the carb company labels it, it's not an apples-to-apples comparison.

And, yes, I have something like that, too, and it was good enough to make about 680 HP w/ my stock-stroke 440 build.

< Since I think these answers are still critical to the discussion >

And I agree w/ some other posters above in that it sure doesn't sound like the guy's trying to build a race car. He may have picked some "racy" parts, but that doesn't mean it's what he's expecting the car to be.

Thanks for all the responses guys! To be honest my head is spinning right now, LOL! The guy who built the engine for me, although he is Mopar to the bone it doesn't help with his organization skills. He can't seem to find the cam card so he's contacting Indy Cylinder head for help. He should hopefully have the cam card info by Wednesday for all the guys who asked what cam is in the motor. He also built the trans and said it's a 9 1/2" converter with 3K stall. Once again thanks for the suggestions guys!!!

The right foot controls the gas peddle, correct
My point is you will control how much air the motor sees when driving, the only time you can have a carb. that is to small is at wide open throttle
I would, and do, buy the biggest carb that I think I might need in a speed contest at the track or on the roads trying tp pass someone

I agree with Cab. So why buy a carb that is smaller than the rest of the build?

And there seems to be an implication that a 4500 carb is more of a 'Race' carb. While a 4150 is a 'street' carb. I don't see it that way. The carb should be sized to the needs of the combo and the tune should be for the combo.

Sized right and tuned right, I don't see any preference for a 4500 vs a 4150. It's just how much air the combo wants/needs. A 505" BBM with Max Wedge ports and 6,500RPM potential will need MORE air than most 4150s can supply. Certainly more than an 850.

And tuned properly, they will both have the same street manners.

IMO, the OP needs to provide a clearer explanation of what his street AND track expectations are for his build. It's really too vague at this point.

Roll with it, guys... nothing else I can add to this discussion.

Go EFI and be done with it.
OK - I'll go away now. No offense intended.

"max wedge intake"

OE max wedge intake=crossram

Based on other comments, it's not a crossram....

What is it?

This is basically my take on it as well.

I’m going to assume the intake manifold is either a 440-2, 440-2D, or MP 337.

I’d use either a QFT SQ-850 or 950.

What's the difference between a QFT Q and a QFT SQ?

SQ is “Street Q”.

Less billet stuff, less racy calibration.

Sorry about that, it's the Indy intake with max wedge ports that came with the Indy EZ-1 head kit. Not sure of the exact model number, still waiting for more info on that from the builder.

My exact words to the engine builder were "I don't want some kid in a Subaru pulling up beside me at a stop light and kicking my azz! If it runs high 10's/low 11's in the 1/4 I'll be happy". I gave the builder complete control of the build to make that happen.

I have no idea what you're used to driving. Have you owned or driven a legit high 10 / low 11 sec street car before (one with the ET slips to verify it)?

I've owned my Challenger for 33 years. Never driven a "legit high 10/ low 11 sec street car". Trying to get there, what carb would you recommend BradH?

more people who are building these things should ask themselves these questions! can the owner handle the power? can the owner tune/maintain the car?

If it runs that strong, I hope you will be very careful getting used to it. I went from a mid 11 second street car to a 10 second car and there was a bit of a learning curve there, especially when jumping into it on public streets. I finally went to MT ET streets because if you hit it just a bit to hard to pass, it would get loose. This is not meant to be condescending in any way, and I am sure that is what Brad is getting at. As far as a carb goes, I think any of the quality carbs mentioned in a 950 would balance your need for power and streetability. You could always get a larger carb later, if needed. You have to find a balance for your expectations. I built a nice 493 for a friend with a Holley HP 950 and he loves it as he drives it on the street 99% of the time. Lots of good advice here and good luck!

How about the miracle Fish Carburetor?

Sorry, more questions:

1. What's in it now?

2. How fast is it today, or -- as in my own case -- the last time it ran?

3. What's the fastest / quickest muscle car you've ever driven, and was this on the street or the strip?

4. What's going to make you happier, a quick ET slip, or not having to mess with the car on a regular basis?

5. Have you received the cam specs, yet? Any idea if it's a solid or hydraulic, flat-tappet or roller?

6. Done much carb & ignition tuning before?

7. Is fuel mileage any concern at all? How does 8 MPG sound?

8. Are you interested in trading off some amount of performance for better behavior (less "fussy") in normal street driving?

9. How much time have you spent ON (not AT) a drag strip?

10. If you have 11-second MPH, but 13-second ETs because the car doesn't "work" well at the track (spins, instead of hooks up), are you going to leave it as it is, or start to get more $eriou$ about chassis tuning and on-track testing?

11. How far do you expect to drive the car on the street, and is there much highway time in your plans?

12. If/when you go to the track, are you driving the car there, or trailering it?

13. If a 9-sec Subaru WRX cuts your nutz off in a race, can your ego (and/or bank account) handle it?

14. What does your engine builder say he thinks you should run for a carb? And if you choose to run something different, is that going to p!ss him off?