I was reading in Edelbrocks aluminum head installation guide that you should re-torque the heads after bringing them up to operating temperature. I am using their suggested Felpro1008 composition gaskets which claim that re-torque is unnecessary. Hmmmm a conflict of information.

As it’s nearly impossible to get to the lower head bolts with the headers installed is it best to just create a lot of noise and run the motor wide open with no headers or manifold and then pull the valve covers off again and retighten it all or just install everything and just forget re-torquing them?

Thanks
Sean

Dont run it with no exh manifold or header. Do run it, then take off the headers of manifolds, and retorque them. Hot preferably. Many guys dont do it. I always do. Retorquing means releasing the torque (loosen the bolt) then bring it back up. You dont have to unbolt the head, just do each bolt in the std order.

This would be one of the reasons I built a running stand..lol. It really stinks, but it should be done.

I think the instructions tell you to allow the engine to cool before re-torque. I'm replacing head gaskets right now on a 440/Edelbrock combo. Water in #2. Clear path in evidence on gasket. I'll be re-torqueing faithfully from here on out.

Ok...I guess I'll do it. The car is an A body (68 cuda) with TTI headers. To remove them I have to remove the starter, rear #7 header pipe, right angle oil adapter plate, pitman arm, tie rod and some other stuff.

FUN!

Hopefully I can just loosen them and sneak in some adapter that will get to those lower bolts.

Thanks for your help
Sean

If it's not in yet, try finding a local guy with a run in stand. I help friends out with it. it's a LOT easier. Another thought would be dyno time... break it in right, get it squared away, so it's done when it goes in. When you're looking at the time and effort, sometimes the dyno aint such a bad idea.

I usually just torque them to 75 and recheck a day or two later one bolt at a time loosening and bring up to 75 all in one pull!

My dad had a long funny story (well funny to me) about re torqing his indy heads on his 69 super bee show car. They told him just go 75 and forget but he decided to warm it up. first he fired without the manifolds! he said Jesus the flames shoot out 3 feet!!!! LOL!! right to hs laquer painted fenders!
Then he slid the manifolds on and started again. that set the cardboard he had under the car so oil would not get on the floor on fire. That nearly gave him a heart attack getting the flames out. dam he was in his mid sixties at the time with a bad ticker surprised it did not but he lived another 10 to 12 years after that!!

On our 512 stroker with Eddys I did it by the book ..got it to temp ,cooled down and retorqued ..and after about 100 miles it pushed the gaskets out..( 1009 felpros )..I have only seen thar on Blower motors...water in # 2 cly brought it to my attention..whats up with that ...11:1 comp

I torqued the bolts again a few days later while the motor was on the stand and that was it. 8,000 miles so far on the new motor. I did torque the header bolts though, multiple times.

I cant help thinking that it is a gasket(quality) issue as opposed to "aluminum" heads needing constant retorquing EDIT & if I did R&R the head gaskets I'd for sure check the block/heads & see if their still flat & if so I'd think it's the gasket

I didn't know you needed to retorque the heads...my 360 with Eddy's and Felpro 1008 gasket ran for 8 years on the bottle all the time with no issues...maybe I was lucky.

I have never retorqued any thing have allways used the felpro's now watch this one bit me

I'm rolling the dice too. I haven't retorqued due to the complex exhaust dropping and lack of energy! No big deal, as I'm at 190psi cranking pressure with 11.2 ratio pump gas 93 octane smallblock. Many many miles on this combo, plus a bunch of 1/4mile runs.

No issues yet.

Lots of stock cars run AL heads on iron blocks.
I'd try to find a run stand, A-body with headers doesn't sound fun....

FWIW, I did retorque mine.....and it was a PITA. But, they needed it. All bolts moved to tighten to spec....and all the same. No issues since....now 3rd season.

Did you guys ever put a head gasket on one of them 80's GM 1.8 ohc turds? That service manual stressed the importance of re-torqing head after warmup, and it was the biggest headache with many of the head bolts having studs on top to hold down items that kindof needed to be there to fire the thing up in first place! That being said, I rarely re-torque anything and I use my own projects to measure any failure tendancies.

I don't plan to retorque mine. I think if you run it on a dyno before installing why not retorque. But once in the car it is a lot of work to retorque them and most likely they will be fine.

I have to correct myself... I have no idea why I said do it hot...lol. Must have been thinking lash. sorry about that.