I can't seem to get it out. It grinds just a little bit when going into reverse.

I've:
-Adjusted the clutch a bunch of times, taking it way out of spec, to the point it was engaging from 1" off the floor to all the way up high.
-Double clutch it before trying reverse
-Put it into forward gears first and then try reverse.

Can't seem to get it.

What am I missing?

Larry-if it is grinding going into reverse, the input is turning or trying to turn. Since you've adjusted the clutch different ways, I would think the input may be tight in the pilot bushing, or the input is bottoming out in the crankshaft. Is it a Lakewood bell housing? Did you check the bell housing bore runout? A mis-aligned bell housing will also cause the pilot to grab in the bushing.

Wayne

Thanks Wayne,
The Bell is a Quicktime, that I corrected the runout to under .005", so it's good. The input shaft doesn't bottom out in the crank, I'm sure of it. I have a mopar pilot bearing in there (torque converter register), and it fits just fine on the input shaft.

I understand what you are saying, but I just can't seem to figure out why the input shaft is still turning. The clutch is a McLeod Dual Disc RST organic face.

In all forward gears, life is fine. Actually, better than fine. I absolutely love the clutch.

Reverse is the only area that I need to figure out.

Put it in another gear, then go directy to reverse. If it grinds then you have something forcing the input shaft to turn. Other wise, it may simply be the trans coasting to a stop from neutral.

Like I wrote, I tried that numerous times. Put it into a forward gear and then to R. I've tried letting the clutch out a little in a forward gear, let it out in N, and then try R. I've double clutched N and then into R.

Every time, I get a slight crunch. Not too bad, but I'd like to get rid of it.

Maybe it's just this dual disc clutch dragging a little on the floater plate? But if that was the case, wouldn't it grind a little going into first gear at a dead stop?

Typical,unless you can stop the rotation.

Might not be an issue, but what's you idle? Seems like I had a problem before when the idle was too high.
Jim

Hmmmmm...funny you mention idle. I've had an issue where my idle is too high, and I'm out of adjustment on the 2 carbs. So I know I must have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's an issue that is next on the table. Not a huge leak, but enough that I can't get my idle down below 1200rpm hot right now. Maybe that's keeping things spinning too much

I've disconnected the only vac port and it didn't change anything. The carbs are not leaking, so it's probably in the top for my cross ram or even the ports sealing to the intake.

What do you all think?

My 440 idles at about 1400.Its super radical and my old 65 4 speed dosent grind going to reverse.Rocky

Would a worn/out of spec input shaft bearing cause it? The synchros in the forward gears could keep it quiet buy maybe not having any in the reverse gear would make it make the noise?

Beging with the easy stuff first. Try putting it in 1st gear first and then reverse I bet you will be ok. Give it a try. Good luck

My 70 runner did this too... I tried adjusting it some, but never did go awau.

Like I said, I've got from 1st straight to R without letting the clutch out, and it still does it.

My dad went through the trans and everything is good. He's practically and pro at the internals on these things. Heck, he said the inside of this trans, once he replaced a few things, was better than the one in his own car!

Trans shifts great. I've power shifted it below 5krpm and it's super sweet. Clutch grabs hard and the trans goes into gears perfect. Low speed driving is sweet as well, goes into every gear like butter.

Larry-since you have the adapter in the torque coverter register, you need to make sure the input diameter is .747 diameter all the way down to the taper before the spline area. Often they were not ground all the way to the taper, and are .010" to .012" larger diameter for the last 1/4" inch or so.

Wayne

Interesting Wayne,....Thanks!

I do remember test fitting the bearing over the input shaft and all seemed well. I ran it down quite a ways, and it seemed fine. I always test fit and measure stuff a hundred times. But you never know. If I can't figure this out, I'll pull the trans back out, but I'll hold off on doing that just yet.