Google is your friend, check out Kentucky High Tech race transporter lift gates and Feather lite race transporters . By the way I think your truck will make a great hauler. You'll make money by not having to buy trailer tires over and over. 3-4 thousand pounds in the back of that truck, piece of cake. And for maintenance , I would think changing the fluids once year unless your a pro racer who drives coast to coast multiple times per year you'll be all set.

How long is the box and how long is your car??? Where will the abode and other necessities go

Thanks

It is a 25’ box with a 4’ overcab. Bed above the cab, shower and toilet in a small bathroom in the left front corner of the box. Small kitchenette next to bathroom and stairs on far right for cabover bed. 22’ of floor space left. Hot water heater/plumbing, electrical, generator in boxes on driver side of truck. Tool boxes, jack, and chairs and BBQ in right side under boxes and a split Air unit mount on top of cab with air damn around it. 11/2” foam insulation in walls and 2” in roof. Not sure if I’m going to put a Gemini stacker lift in it. The inside is 9’ so I will need to do some further investigation. Either way it will get finished out like a toy hauler with windows interior paneling and outlets to run higher end air mattresses. The unit will have carbon air filtration and ozone to remove any gas, oil and car odors. Once I figure out the lift works for me or not I found 13’ long aluminum ramps 10k axle capacity to possibly extend the lift gate. The cab will be updated with Nav, 13” dvd TVs and black zebra wood overlay on dash and doors and new carpet. Seats are clean and perfect with dr seatair ride. We will see how it turns out.

Keep us updated on this venture!

No matter how robust a truck may be, its handling is effected by weight distribution, anything high up, and to the rear of the rear axle, with high side walls, gets real squirrelly in high winds and/or rough roads. Air ride does not help unless you have rear swaybars. A car lifter rail gate is heavy by itself, and unfortunately, all the weight is at the very rear, and above the floor. maybe in your conversion to a RV, you can add up front a cast iron bath tub for balance.

This load balance issue is very difficult to correct after the fact. The pictured truck already has significant rear overhang, IMO.

I think I would try to locate a used cheep small travel trailer to pull out the items you need , toilet , holding tank, fresh water tank etc. Hopefully the tanks will fit in the underbody storage compartments.

I agree on the balance of weight. The holding tanks and other things will be mounted as far forward as possible.i have access to large scales and it will be taken in to consideration. Not sure on the lift inside yet. Thanks for the input.

No matter how robust a truck may be, its handling is effected by weight distribution, anything high up, and to the rear of the rear axle, with high side walls, gets real squirrelly in high winds and/or rough roads. Air ride does not help unless you have rear swaybars. A car lifter rail gate is heavy by itself, and unfortunately, all the weight is at the very rear, and above the floor. maybe in your conversion to a RV, you can add up front a cast iron bath tub for balance.

This load balance issue is very difficult to correct after the fact. The pictured truck already has significant rear overhang, IMO.
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These are great ideas! Thanks. Not wanting to use low end items so I’m buying all new. Ronco plastics in Ca can make any size/shape tank I need. I will be using a porcelain RV toilet and a full massage shower enclosure. This should keep the wife and kids comfortable and happy. I sold a 42’ diesel pusher not long ago so my wife will need some comfort.

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That is a 6500 series GMC which should be rated for a 5 ton payload. It will haul a 3000 odd lb race car around like it isn't there. The centre of gravity of a car is probably no higher than a pallet of beer and probably doesn't weigh any more that 2 pallets.

Kevin

Over on the truck conversion forums, there is a concern about getting too much weight on the front axle (over weight capacity). The consensus there is to move as much weight rearward as possible. Lots of weight carrying capability back there.

Just to clarify, my concern mentioned about was not the amount of weight, its the balance between the rear and the front axle, AND if a lot of that weight is rear of rear axle, its not fun to drive. I believe others that have driven poorly balanced load straight trucks can confirm. I also believe a "stacker" puts a car lot higher then ground stacked normal pallet loads, if I understand the correct use here of a car hauler "stacker".

I would weigh the truck now and get the front axle and rear axle weights and write them down so you can use that information on where to install the fresh water, grey and black water tank locations
I was thinking the ten lug wheels where for a higher GVW truck, what is the max GVWR of your truck now?

The rear axle will be rated at 20,000 lbs, the front will be 12,000 lbs. That's 32,000 lbs gross weight. I'm pretty sure he intends to haul the car on the floor of the box.

Kevin

How do you know the above mentioned info, I didn't see the OP share it.

It could be spec'd lighter but 10 stud hubs usually indicate a 12/20 combo. Air ride suspension is only available on 19,000 lb axles and bigger so I think it's safe to assume it's more than sufficient.

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/191/2008_MD_ConventionalCab2.pdf


Kevin

As long as you mention the assume part for the OP, it makes sense, however my experience with custom ordered trucks, you can order nearly anything custom, and GVW will be limited by the weakest link of the build specs, be that tires, brakes, drivetrain, axles, frame rails (alloy/size), suspension, rims, tires, etc. I am sure there are plenty of combinations the OEM will not build. But if the customer wants a 26K GVW with big brakes rated for much higher GVW, they likely can build it, for example. The OP's truck might be custom spec'd, and as I touched on before, needs to be careful he doesn't build himself into an expensive corner that is not suitable for his needs.

The OP can verify what he has by checking the decal on the door post. It will show axle weight ratings, registered gross weight etc.

Kevin

We just bought a 2018 F-750 at work. for $120 ford takes takes the 33,000 GVW sticker off and slaps one on that says 25,999lbs to keep you out of CDL territory. So there is no telling how his truck is rated, i agree it should be sufficient though.

Never heard of that option before. Sounds strange. Also a loophole to escape excise taxes, that would likely close in the future.

edit:
In this case I believe "heavy" means over 55K GVW?,

https://www.ttnews.com/articles/senate-bill-would-repeal-federal-excise-tax-heavy-truck-sales