Anyone on here ever had a enclosed race trailer re-skinned? If so, can a trailer that has original screwed panels be re-skinned with screw-less panels? I know that new panels are very costly, but what about the labor cost? Does it look good like a new trailer? The panels are not damaged, rather, corroded and "chalky". Looking at options here. Thanks,
Brian

I've had several panels replaced on two different trailer that where attached with screws before and after, not cheap either.
Shop around near you with R.V. part shops and repair shops to get the prices near you

I replaced some a few years ago when my trailer was rear ended. Removed the old ones. Laid them over the new ones. Marked the holes with a sharpie. Drilled new holes and reattached the new panels. The ones that weren't replaced had the screws removed one row at a time, We wheeled out those panels and reinstalled new screws. Perfect match of color (white), no. Wasn't hard, just time consuming.
Doug

Timely thread...
I'm looking at a H&H trailer with some hail damage on the passenger side, it's a 20'and given my driveway I think that's all can use, my 18' open trailer is tight.

Yes, you can use bonded panels in place of the screw panels. Use 3M VHB, they have one for applying the panel to the beam and one for panel to panel. The VHB tape will cover the entire beam and existing screw holes. .030 is the typical panel for most trailers. Higher end trailers use either .040 or .050". The thicker it is, the smoother, less prone to dents, and less wavy it will look. VHB gives you one shot to stick it, so make sure it's straight and level!
You have to remove the trim to replace panels, so I'd replace it as well if it's dinged or scratched up. The trim isn't expensive, and the trailer will look brand new. Also with the panels off, you can insulate, fix or add any wiring, etc...
You'll probably have $1500-$2000 in re-skinning a 20' trailer, depending on gauge, but you'll have a LOT of labor!

I took my 28ft back to the MFGR (United Trailer). They did a total reskin,put new trim on it and replaced all the lights. About $2750. Not cheap,but it looked like a new trailer when I got it back.

Have you considered having it wrapped instead

FWIW
I have owned 4 enclosed race trailers in the past. All of them got polished at least once a year and the roof washed 4-5 times a year to keep the grey stains from running down the sides from diesel exhaust residue and air pollution.

IMO...first I would try to buff the finish out and see if that is possible? I have done a lot of buffing over the years and you would be surprised what can be done buffing.

If that was not possible then I would sell it.

Then second consideration would be a paint job.

Then 3rd like mentioned a wrap might be a consideration.

Years ago I replaced every screw on a 40' goose trailer I had. It made a wonderful difference combined with a nice buff. I sold that trailer shortly afterward for much more than I paid for it because it looked like new.


I think replacing panels would be the most expensive and not economically feasible?

I have a freighliner toterhome that was built with smooth sides, no rivets and no screws. About 5-8 years old the panels started coming loose. I took it back to the people who built it and they said they were having trouble with the adhesive that was used. They put rivets in it to stop the separation and here we are 17 years later it is still holding up great. Does not look bad with rivets IMO.

Oshkosh 2018, toterhome was built in 2001 and have owned it since 2002.

Sun and Fun 2018 Lakeland Fla.

Been to 39 states with this truck and trailer.


See the electric buffer on the back of my toterhome? I am always maintaining it. I do lot's of clean up when I get where I am going since we have to drive through rain lot's times and I like my stuff clean.

I asked for enough screws to do a 40' goose trailer, Bruce Litton Trailer sales in Indy sold me a 1/3-1/2 full 50 pound box of screws for cheap. As it turned out it was enough screws to do 3 40' trailers. I have been using these self taping screws ever since. They are the same screws used on my toterhome and many of the screws on my toterhome has been replaced with these screws. The side panels on the toterhome has smooth rivets but the trim and polished diamond plate uses these screws and is how I maintain my toterhome which has never been inside ever.


Always the only red camper in the campground and it is always clean. The roof is as clean as the rest. Must keep the roof clean if you want the sides clean.

I am facing the same dilemma, i have a 2000 Haulmark 20 ft. its been a great trailer and is in good shape however the paint is faded, I tried the Rustoleam color back it helped a little but the trailer still doesn't look good. I talked to Haulmark and they don't do reskins and the new panels are around $90 a piece. I saw an ad for a paint shop here in N.J. that paints trailers I might call for an estimate. My roof was getting spots of surface rust, I sprayed Silver Rustoleam on a few of the spots but recently bought a few quarts of Silver Rustoleam and took a roller and did the whole roof, it came out great.

I've built a few trailers. Used plain rivets on the first one and screws on the second. On the third I bought most of my stuff from a truck hardware supply and used rivets that take a "button" afterward. These are awesome and don't damage the panels because they're also aluminum (screws corrode the panels due to electrolysis of dissimilar metals). I always painted the entire frame before installing the panels both to prevent rust and so the bare aluminum wasn't contacting the bare steel. If you go with screws or rivets, don't forget to apply sealant to every seam before installing the panels. Panels will warp from the heat of sunlight so at the seams you want rivets at least every 6 inches. You want panels that are 49" wide to give you the necessary overlap.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I'm looking for a 48' goose neck w/ living quarters and I found one that looks like it will work, but the outside is pretty rough. I don't think that having it wrapped is possible because some of the panels are corroded and "bubbly" around the screws.
Thanks,
Brian

IMO

I have known 2 guys with trailers like you describe, neither one was ultimately happy with there purchase. Because the trailers are very heavy and they do not have much room either way. The living quarters are small and the car storage area is too small.

Also it was pointed out to me by 2 people in the trailer business that they don't have very good resale value when I wanted one.

Don Peden told me that and so did Bruce Litton years ago. And I believe it since I witnessed it myself racing.

I certainly understand all of what you are saying, and believe you are correct.
What we are trying to accomplish though, is making it possible for my wife to continue to go racing with me. She is diabetic and the medicine that she takes, coupled with the heat & humidity is just too hard on her. I work out side so I'm kinda use to it, but it is getting harder every year for me to deal with it. My wife, on the other hand, lives in a air conditioned home, drives a air conditioned car to and from work and works in a air conditioned office. We race a lot at Bristol, where there is asphalt everywhere, nowhere to hide from it. And we're there for two or three days at a time. She can tolerate it for a while, but she can't stay out in it all day long, then sleep in it at night(we sleep in the trailer at the track & race sat & sun), and then do it again on Sunday. We've nicked her up a couple of times and can not continue to do that.
The other thing is it will allow us to race at other tracks that are 100 plus miles away, and not have to be driving back home sat nite at 3 am, after racing all day (race sat, spend the night at the track, drive home Sunday morning well rested, in the daylight).
We don't hunt, fish or play golf, we drag race. We know that this will be a lot of money to spend, but we also feel that it will allow us to continue to race for a few more years (I'm 61, wife is 63)
If anyone has other sugustions, I would love to hear what works for you.
Thanks,
Brian

Toterhome worked for me, and I am still using it years later after racing. I pulled a 49' gooseneck race trailer.

My wife would not go either if I did not have AC/heated space for her to hang out in. That is her car too.

I used your plan and Ive been satisfied, its a tradeoff though, I lived in Western Wyoming for many years and we didnt have any tracks very close by, I bought a 36' living quarters trailer used and still use it fairly regularly. Out West we traveled pretty long distances regularly to race, and went to lots of 2 and 3 day races. We would camp at the track and race. Wife loved the camping part of racing. The biggest issue with the smaller living quarter trailers to me is its really hard to carry much of a pit vehicle with you. I get by either with a bicycle, or a 50 CC Scooter. The AC and RV generator is nice for the track in the trailer for sure. Dont think the resale is that bad on the trailers since the ATV industry has grown enough lots of those guys are looking for Toy Haulers for them to haul them and camp.

This is my 24’ my barracuda nose comes up to about 1’ away from the tool box. The bunk is a twin with a temperpedic mattress. It is made using etrack and aluminum cargo beams that click into the e track. I have two 6 volt golf cart batteries that run the lighting and my inverter. I can watch tv and usually get 15 channels of over the air tv through an antenna. No plumbing, but I have found a good number of the tracks have shower facilities and they never close the restrooms. You need A/C so you could just get a trailer setup for A/C and a generator for power. You could get a 28’ and and do a king size bunk. Make it lower to ease gettin in. The cargo beams are good for 1200lbs each. So they will last forever and are like $30 each. Just let the car cool before you bring it in. Gets toasty with all that hot car, but nice on those cold nights.

I have to resize photo.

Here is picture, well not so much. Still trying
I can’t get picture to post. Forget it, if you go to yellowblullett there’s another post about living quarters in the trashed section. A picture is in that.

Really depends on the trailer and what your priorities are. An aluminum LQ trailer is not that heavy (mine is 13,600 empty and has a slide).
The aluminum ones are normally a higher end trailer and hold their value.
There is definitely a compromise. I chose a larger living quarters to be comfortable at the sacrifice of a smaller garage. I have to turn the golf cart side ways to carry it. PIA? Yes. But the larger more comfortable LQ is worth it (after it's loaded!)

If money was no object, I'd have a motorhome with tag, but right now this setup is what works to make the wife, dogs and me comfortable.