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Saw a car that looked a lot like 69chargeryeehaa's but no one was around, so I couldn't confirm it. Were you on the field Sat. by any chance?

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yes, it was my car, i guess it's a good thing you could'nt tell it was my car, otherwise it would have shown the roller paintjob looks obvious actually i had alot of compliments on the paint/body even before i mentioned "ya, this car cost me $50 to paint with tremclad and a foam roller!!!" . the avitar pic is my car with the prostars i had, but i bought the replica VECTOR wheels used in the dukes of hazzard that were on the car at the show, that probabally made it hard to tell if it really is the car!!!. lots of rain that day, it was sunny for about 30 mins, then started raining when i got there, that was fun was'nt it? i was in the parts swap area looking for goodies. i saw your truck, it looked awesome. i'm not big on green, but i have to admit that 2-tone looked really good on your truck. i too had alot of people recognize the car from here, and talked to alot of them about the paint job, and yes.....alot of them did'nt catch the "ya, i painted it with a roller and tremclad"!!! at first, but then i saw that "priceless" look, saw that look alot that day. some people i talked with thought it was a lie, others shared their total amazement, wanting to know everything about it and when i can paint their car!!!!

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I just want to say thank you guys for your help and solving my slight issue. It was infact the gloves...since I didn't have that issue when working on the car. Speaking of which..here is the sixth coat...still need to wetsand and polish..but I love the results.

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... so here is my question. I'm on page 25 of this thread and have read the origional and have not seen this addressed. My spray paint mentor once told me to watch the temp vs. due point when painting. If the temp is falling fast..don't paint. If the due point and the temp are too close together..don't paint. My mentor said when the concrete is sweating they are definitely close together. I see some experienced painters on here and would like to read their comments on this, and whether or not it has any effect on a single stage paint like the tremclad/rustoleum.

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Neat thread, kudos to all who add to the information here. I was wanting to know, Marq or anyone, what rattlecan brand and color is a close match to the Brightsides Fire Red? I got some Brightsides from the guy on Ebay but haven't been able to find a close match in a spray can locally. Thanks, and I will stay tuned.

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I was wanting to know, Marq or anyone, what rattlecan brand and color is a close match to the Brightsides Fire Red? I got some Brightsides from the guy on Ebay but haven't been able to find a close match in a spray can locally.

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Hey Marq, when you are you going to show us your polished Brightside paint? I know you waiting for it to cure more...

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The job is all done and I have been busily driving the car at every opportunity. I will try to snap some pictures this Saturday and post them up. Funniest thing is that I don't really expect anyone to be able to detect much difference in the appearance compared to the other 42 pics that I previously put onto the server.

The most significant difference between the final coat of Brightside and the wet sanded, compounded, polished and wax version is TOUCH. The paint on the car is now SMOOOOOOOOOOOTH to the touch. Slippery smooth... If you put something on the car body it slides off. You can't rest anything on the car or it will slide off and fall to the ground. Even the six pound Cable & Porter polisher went sliding to the ground when I left it lying on the car Many times the tub of Turtle Wax compounding product and bottles of Meguiars went for that slippery ride down the hood or trunk on a slipper ride, But probably the most interesting 'slippery' event was when I placed a fresh polishing rag on the hood of the car and gravity pulled it down the hood - there was no resistance to hold it in place on the hood. I was impressed because I have never been able to get a hood that slippery smooth.

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I think we all would like to see the outcome using this type of paint. Right now I'm still deciding wether to use Tremclad with a clear coat ontop or just Brightside. Only thing holding me back from Brightside is that the finish doesn't last long from what I've read in the past posts. How is yours holding up since you layed it down?

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I have no qualms at all at laughing at anyone who tries to say the Brightside paint doesn't last long. It's made FOR BOATS... it's made to be exposed constantly to the sun. It's made to have the bodies of young ladies scantilly clad in just bikini's lying on it. It is a paint designed specifivally for the TOP PART of boats... where it gets things bounced off it, placed on it, dragged over, chemicals SPILLED on it ( like gas, oil, sun tan lotion etc ) it etc etc.

Bottom line is that this single stage polyurathane is a close and true relative of automotive paint. The main difference is that it is designed for boat owners to 'roll' with 5 inch rollers ON THEIR OWN PERSONAL WATERCRAFT.

Anyhow... I have discussed previously my experiences with the compounding, polishes and waxes that I used.

The only update I can add to that previous posting is that I also made use of the Turrle Wax brand compounding product. The brown muddy stuff in a tub. I liked it. It worked just as well as the more expensive 3M Perfection III compounding product. At some points I was even mixing the two products on the fly while compounding a surface. It seems the Turtle Wax compound product gives you more time to work with the product before it goes dry.

But from what I have seen and experienced there are two ways to go with the Brightside paint job :

a ) if you have successfully laid down a smooth and glossy final coat of paint... you might wish to stop at that point and live with that finish for a month. It will give the paint time to reach maximum hardness... but more importantly you will save yourself all the work of wetsanding, compounding and waxing. But please note that YOU CAN go to wet sanding and compounding within 24 hours of that final coat of paint being applied.

b ) if your final coat of Brightside gives you anything less then what you were hoping for... then breakout out the wet sanding and go from 1000, to 1500 to 2000. Then go for a compounding with the Turtle Wax compound product to rejuvenate the shine that was lost during the wetsanding. Once you have reached that level of shine from the compounding... go to the waxing stage. As previously noted... I had my best luck with Meguiars pure Carnuba and Meguiars High Tech wax. The 'High Tech' wax is a polymer and so it was more successful at giving the paint a deeper and darker look. The Carnuba wax was better at developing a high gloss.

I will take this opportunity to again pizz on the Turtle Wax ICE. It looked amazing for the first 10 seconds that it was applied on the paint - something like how amazing the finish looks when you wet it down with solvent to clean the car. But just like the solvent the paint goes back to its dull look once the Turtle Wax ICe evaporates. I was not impressed with that product.

Ok.... so nuff said for the moment. I will try to snap pics and post them this Saturday

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So is rust, or brightside gettin better results? OR does it even matter, i think i read that with brightside you dont need miniral spirits to thing it out, its already good to go?

I believe both paint processes will give you equal results in the end. I swithced from the Rustoleum process to the Brightside process simply to cut down on the amount of work needed... it takes less coats and provides a glossy layer at each step of the procedure.

With the Brightside you can paint with it straight out of the can.... HOWEVER... I found it better to cut the paint with their thinning liquid which is specifically sold for the purposes of Brushing & Rolling. They call it a Brushing Liquid and they refer to it as product number 333 ( so as to be not confused with their actual thinning liquid ). On the can they say you can use from 5% to 10% of the brushing liquid with your can of paint. It's whole purpose is to buy you additional working time with the paint when applying it and to allow the paint additional time to self level. I found that when I cut the paint with the brushing liquid it made the bubbles more self-popping. In some ways you could say that the Interlux Brushing Liquid acts very much like how the mineral spirit helps the Tremclad/Rustoleum to self-pop its bubbles.

Naturally and logically whenever you thin a paint it will thin out the solids being applied to each layer that you are painting. So this may require that you complete one extra layer to the paint job in order to have laid down the same amount of pigment or solids... compared to if you had just laid down the paint straight out of the can.

Initially I did try to lay down a layer of paint straight out of the can... but after the first panel I immediately began cutting the paint with their 'Brushing Liquid". It just seemed to lay down better and gave me that extra bit of time to work the layer of paint with the second roller to make things appear visually even ( no roller lines and to pop any bubbles that had not self popped ).

Now... the Brushing Liquid sold by Interlux is basically 'Ketone'... as compared to 'mineral spirits' which are used to cut the Tremclad/Rustoleum. I believe that you might be able to use the smelly 'mineral spirits' to cut the Brightside paint. Basically they are both serving the same purpose - in that they are evaporative carriers. Meaning that although they are making the paint 'wetter' for when you are applying the paint... their key purpose is to evaporate and leave the paint solids behind. I believe that the mineral spirits may be slightly slower at evaporating WHEN COMPARED against the 'ketone'. This would suggest that using mineral spirits to cut Brightside paint might buy you yet more time for the paint to self-level and self-pop the bubbles.

One other thought did strike me during the painting process with Brightside and cutting it with their brushing fluid. We all are aware by now that the amount of gloss and shine of your final layer of paint is DIRECTLY AFFECTED by the amount of humidity and temperature. In fact Brightside clearly identifies humidity as a factor that we should work around. The key being that when you are in position to lay down your final layer... make sure that the temperature is cool and that humidity is LOW !

When I arrived at my final coat of paint I had to delay that painting by FOUR DAYS - because we were in the middle of a h3llish heat spell ( 35 degrees celcius ) with humidity factor that made it feel like 43 degrees celcius ( approx 114 degrees farenheit ). So I held off the final coat of paint until the morning temperature was MUCH COOLER and the humidity had dropped back down to normal levels. I believe this may have helped give the higher level of gloss compared to my earlier coatings.

Sorry that I have to write an essay to answer simple questions. But for folks who are reading these threads, they are on a quest to get as much information as possible to help them decide about the merits of attempting one of these 'roller jobs'.

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