I have a cracked cast head and what about Pro Form or is there another Aluminum head I want to go back to factory specifications

Edelbrock E street 84cc would be my suggestion.

440 source
http://store.440source.com/

Trick-flow 240's are real nice heads I'm told. But cost more then the E-streets.

I'm not really sure what you mean by this. Of course an aftermarket aluminum head will not be factory spec. There are several aftermarket aluminum heads that I would consider factory replacement and all of your stuff will bolt back on without issue.

Some aftermarket look like factory, some do not, some have angled plugs, some do not. There are a few different combustion chamber sizes available too.

This will be a great opportunity to for you significantly up your engine performance by simply making a good choice here. It will be difficult for us to tell you what that is without knowing exactly what your goal is. If it is to simply look as close to factory as possible, 440 Source's Stealth head is an option.

I use an edelbrock 84cc rpm head on one of my 440's. the con's are rocker geometry, and push rod lengths and this may be an issue with any of the edelbrock clones. casting wasn't very nice inside the intake port runners and the cnc'd port window location wasn't great. those things I did cure, just wasn't expecting this for a "bolt on" head. upside is they burn good, I like the smaller plug and angle (I have 2" tti headers), and they do seem to be reliable.

like bsb67 said overall goal is important. I really wouldn't be afraid to have fast68plymouth make you a set of iron heads for an absolute true bolt on. iron heads don't give me heart burn and may be cheaper overall if you get stuck into buying push rods/rockers, etc.

I am sorry I said back to factory spec's I meant close to factory spec's. This roadrunner was a drag car I want to make it a cruzer
with some power but the goal is long lasting. I had 2 other 1970 roadrunners 30 years ago.

IMO, this might be your process:
1) get real clear on your short term and long term goals for the car.
2) get clear on your budget
3) Remove the cylinder head and measure the piston to deck clearance.
4) Match the head to acquire the goals above while picking the highest compression ratio (head chamber size)for your elevation and pump gas.

Have had no problesm with my Stealths from 440 Source.Mine was probally like one of the very first sets sold.Been on all that time.I like they dont have angled plugs.Never could figure why Eddy didnt make theirs straight.
Rocky

What BSB67 says. I've used Eddys & Stealths, and like the stockish look of the Stealths, especially as I always paint the engine 1 color including the aluminum intakes & heads.
But if it's a restoration/ number-matching car, I'd look for a good stock head.

No matter whose heads you buy, don't install them out of the box, take to good engine shop and have them checked out. I mean have the valve job checked, and everything else.

Edelbrock did make some like that. They were sold through MP as the "452" head.

The 84cc E street head I recommended has straight plugs.

Is this motor what was in the car when it was running at the drag strip? If it's not a factory motor then you really do need to know what pistons and cam are in it. You don't want to end up bolting an aluminum head on that has closed chamber with high compression pistons designed for an open chamber head.

The engine is at an auto machinist is a 440 6 pack motor that want back to factory spec's. And it needs pistons and the cam is (0.450-/0.458-inch lift, 228/241 duration at 0.050) and I will let the 440 source people know this.

the aftermarket 6pak replacement piston might make too much cylinder pressure with that cam and closed chamber alum heads. an iron open chamber head and a kb184 piston will work, or an icon 836 piston with a closed chamber alum head will work. all this is if you want pump gas friendly engine.


that cam looks like the mopar replacement. if so it's 213/225@.050", not what mopar states. small cams can build too cylinder pressure creating detonation. too much cam causes tuning headaches for most folks and aren't always value adding.


if going back to factory type spec i'd do the kb184 piston with an iron head. I've done this several times and it is more economical the alum heads with the proper piston. my favorite street engine was a 440 with 6pak, kb184 pistons, mild cam upgrade, and mild head mods. not the most powerful I've had but very reliable and fun, and i'd do one again.

A .030 over 440 with pistons .005 down the hole, 6cc valve pockets, 84cc heads. .040 gaskets is right about 10:1.

With closed chamber aluminum heads it will have proper quench.

That’s how I’d build it.

Same. I think that this is exactly why Eddy built this 84cc head. Common 2.06" something piston at zero deck and 0.040 gasket.....perfect CR with quench. Don't put too small of a cam in it.

OP - have Dwayne spec you a cam too.

an icon 836 (d-cup piston) with the 84cc head and .039' gasket is around 9.8:1. a 2.06" pin height flat top will be closer to 10.5:1 with a .039" gasket.

913.4- swept
84.0- chamber
10.0- 4.41 x 040 gasket
6.0-valve pocket, SRP flat top
1.2-.005 deck
1.0-area above top ring
—————
1015.6- total
102.2- total minus swept
—————
9.937cr

Swapping the SRP piston for an Icon piston with a 4.5cc valve pocket would bring the cr to 10.07.
Taking that 10.07 package and reducing the deck height to zero brings it to 10.16.