Had the bare engine block set on blocks to figure out where I wanted it, didn't have the heads on, and I don't have headers yet either. Started on my firewall, and as you can see in the pics, I effed up. I had to recess the wall, got it deep enough, but not wide enough. Luckily before I welded in the firewall, I placed the heads on, and realinzed the covers won't fit. Then, I put the dash in and as you can see, the steering coulmn comes thru the wall right on the seam. Now I'm wondering if I'm going to have enough room on the drivers side for the steering linkage and the exhaust. Its a Dakota clip, and planned on centering the 383. Think I might have to move it to the left 1-2".

2nd pic

Live and learn.

I almost always off set the engine, the factory did, so why not, when you have exhaust,starter and steering all fighting for that same area, it makes sense to move it over.
and moving the fire wall back to have room to get the valve covers or the exhaust off make sense too. if you have to move the seat back an inch or two to be comfortable then thats not to bad either. Ron...

Little late but, a nice trick for making a nice looking recess is to ..

Buy a radio flyer wagon and cut it half or so
Nice round rolled edges, Making mistakes kind of bites but, it is how you learn to not make them

Would like to have made a rolled firewall, but could only make bends. The frame looks narrow with the engine sitting there. I wanted to get headers, but would the cast iron manifolds be better? The hi-perf ones are pricey, is there a big difference? I looked at a big-block dakota website, and 440's fit with headers, but I have to have the engine sit farther back than stock. Guess I need to find some used cheap headers.

Another quick and clean recess method is to use a wheel barrow tub.....

- EM

One of the street rods I've seen recently had spacers made to set the manifolds out away from the motor, then they ran the exhaust outside of the frame. Wasn't a big block, but it was Mopar and on a Dakota frame. Think the spacers set the manifolds about 2" - 2 1/2" out, simple machined tubes that had bolts go through the manifold, the spacers, and into the heads, two sets of gaskets.

Also wondering if you use a short tilt steering column, can you run the bottom closer to the floor pan and run the column under the exhaust? Stands the column more up right, but the with the tilt and a longer column mount at the dash can make a lot more room under the hood, you just need the steering wheel to end up in the correct position to drive it comfortably. Gene

Offsetting the engine/trans also compensates for weight of the driver.

If you do the 'remote-mount' manifold thing, keep in mind you'll have more movement in your pipes as the engine twists - plan accordingly.

Spent alittle time in the garage today, did anyone notice I didn't put the heads on right? I had just set them on real quick, not bolted on, just held on by the pins. Went to bolt them on today before something happend, and saw they weren't all the way on. Now the engine width including the valve covers fit inside the recess, but I will still need to cut more out. Cut the bottom of the stock steering column, cut a hole in the firewall, it comes real close to where the exhaust manifolds would be. Will find out tommorrow.

Cut the firewall bigger, moved the engine over a little more than an inch. Will have to cut the steering column more, flush with the fw and get a bearing, and maybe a junkyard steering joint. Don't know if I need a rag joint. Should have clearance for exhaust, hope to find some used headers.

close up of column

Maybe I should start this in the projects section.

I think I would move the column over a little more to the drivers side if it were mine, are you planing on running the stock column and wheel? or go with a tilt column?

if you go with a tilt column you could angle the column to come through the firewall a little lower instead of next to the valve cover or exhaust manifold and still be comforable by tilting it down Ron...

To get more clearance around the coulmn, I can move the engine 1" more, should have enough valve cover clearance. Was planning on using the stock column, there was a save-a-column kit, but the company is now out of business. I'm sure I can find a bearing to match the column and do the same thing. Can't move the column from the stock location on the dash. I know a guy who did these before, used a Plymouth Accord column, but I dont want the shift or 80's looking wheel.

Man, it's too bad you're having such a hassle with it. I got lucky with my 56...used the stock mounts and bolted them to the LA block. I feel for you guys with the older ones, and I'm paying CLOSE attention, as the 37 gets closer and closer as the weather warms up!