i hit a HUUUUUUUGE hole with my wife's concorde, and getting off the interstate, there was a clicking noise and a slight shake of the steering wheel. RATS ! anyway, got home and it took about 5 minutes [even with my SLOOOOOOOOOOW butt] to see i had a driver's side inner tierod problem on the drivers side. you can look in and see the attaching point of the iner stud EASILY move up & down while shaking the wheel back-n-forth. so. question is, how sloppy are the studs in the rack supposed to be ? could it be i just lost the inner bushing on the tierod, or will i hafta replace the rack ? either way, i can't let her drive it till it gets fixed. another 6 months, and it qualifies for antique tags here, and she only drives it about 700mi a year, so those tags we will get. the car is rust free and in excellent condition, so if i have to replace the rack i will. and while it's apart, it will get struts and new outer tierod ends as well, just because. at our age[s] we are not figuring on a replacement. what we have works just fine, thanks ! TIA for any help in advance as always ! [she said it's a dam good thing i was driving, so she wouldn't hear about breaking "her" car !] she was along, so i'll still blame it on her !

I used a NAPA reman rack on a '98 Neon and it worked fine. I did destroy one of the corroded hose fittings getting it off and had to order a new pressure hose.

Racks not a common issue.
Inner tie rod end bushings are though. PIA to replace . But cheap.
Fix the inner tie rod and re-check the rack. Odds are its fine

I did the aftermarket split bushing kit in my 2003, in 2010 at 150k
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=356421&cc=1062368&jsn=424

Had I kept my '96 I was going to cut the tie rods and install heim joints. I used to carry an extra pair of tie rods because you never knew when they would go out.

Inter bushing kit. I found doing one side at a time help keep thing lined up. Just loosing both bolts but only remove one at a time. Also you can turn the wheel to the right or left to get better access.

I have a couple of racks here if you need one. Both have been off the car for a long time.

The inner bushings were a problem, and a pita to change. Gene

Chrysler makes an excellent inner tie rod assy for these cars-do not use the split bushing kit as they fail quickly so replace the assy

The rack itself is held with bushings which are replaceable and there is a Chrysler pn for the rack mount bushing. the intrepid web site had a great procedure posted.

Suck as much ps fluid out as you can and replace it with ps fluid for leaks and you should see a better rack as the seals will swell up.

Racks are avail on the aftermarket

Yes,
I found out the hard way do one inner tie rod end at a time.
and its much easier to maneuver everything if the front suspension is off the ground.
Taking the wiper module assy out is a must as well
if you have access to the mopar special tool . It works like a charm. Ive used the aftermarket 2 piece inner bushings and never had to do one a 2nd time. But had a feeling they were never going to last as long as the original

after looking at it again, you guys are correct. it is an [almost] missing inner bushing. not much of it there, and i'm kinda glad it took the hit, rather than the rack. after digging out the FSM, a bushing kit doesn't look all that hard to do. a replacement kit is now on the way. THANKS GUYS !

On my '97 Concord the sub-frame bushings were shot after 200,000+ miles, but overall the car help up pretty darn good. Never had to replace tie-rod bushings, but after the trans started leaking around 230,000 miles I donated the car to charity.

If it has a 3.3 liter, get some valve cover gaskets & plenum gasket. Once you remove the plenum you have good access to the the inner tie rod bushings.
Also once the plenum is off, you have access to valve covers. Replace gaskets then you won't have to remove plenum again once they begin to leak.