Engine's due back any day now [read, two months ago], and it's getting primed and painted Street Hemi Orange. PPG doesn't have that color, so who might mix a pint of the correct color? Or do I use spray-cans? Thx

There are two Hemi orange colors, early, and late. Wedge engines are a different orange also, as did the air filter lid. If you want the correct paint, Frank Baldason has it in PPG, but it's $$$$.

Roseville Chrysler has spray cans for $14.

sixpackfrank@aol.com

That's nice.

If you want to rattle can it that's fine but that is not the right way and in the long run you will be pissed you wasted $52 on crappy paint.

Call Frank as the others have told you and you will be happier in the long run

Bullsquirt...


Got over 20 years and counting on 'crappy' rattle-can spray...


Properly prepped, primed, and sprayed...


On a car that gets driven...


There ARE options...

But rattle can is not the right shade.

Right shade for what???


A world-class, OEM no-expense spared resto???


I used MP 'street hemi' orange when I sprayed my engine in 1993...


Dam sure adequate for my needs...


Which was longevity, first and foremost...


Holding-up real well...

Painting an engine on a highly detailed build is the foundation for everything else, spend a few extra dollars and do it right and the other details are simple bolt ons. Go the cheap/fast route and have an issue or change your mind later to up the accuracy level you are shooting for and it's a MAJOR PIA to strip it all down and start over. I'm doing this exact thing for one of my customers right now, he decided to bring his car to a higher standard part way through his build and his current engine paint color/gloss level is way off.

So,
short cutting with a fresh engine build just doesn't make any sense IMO

.02

The man asked where to get it, and told him his options. If he wants to go the cheap route, then that's his choice, but if he wants it right, then now he knows about that also. I drive my car also, and my correct shade engine looks better than the rattle can engines.

Body color EV2 without the metallic. Unless you have an original parked next to it, nobody will be able to tell the difference.

Talk to Holgar. He has mixed engine colors to match unrestored cars/powertrains for various years

http://www.supercarrestorations.com/

Anybody try the Eastwood paint?

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ceramic-engine-paint-hemi-orange-quart.html

How many average folks out there do you think are gonna be able to tell the difference between your pricey 'correct' orange, and some orange out of a spray can???


And what is the definition of 'right'???


Or 'better'???


Haphazard OEM spray over an un-prepped surface???


How long do you think that will hold-up on a car that's driven???


Hint, not very long...


MY objective was simple, go one better than 'factory'...


Mission accomplished...

Where do you get that?

If this was the resto forum I could see making that ASSumption.

While I haven't painted an engine in some time now, I used rattle can stuff on all my builds, none were resto types though. All of them held up fine.

The OP made zero statements as to the level of the build and your method is not resto type either, which was spray it on quick and dirty and probably wouldn't outlast a decent rattle can job.

Simple, he asked for a source that would mix a pint of the "correct" color code and I gave him one, "correct" doesn't add up to zero, it adds up to one.

Scott is right, he said correct. That ain't gonna happen with cheap rattle can. I don't understand why you all are upset about this, the OP said correct.

I don't know, looks like the original 47 year old factory paint held up pretty well on my original engine, I duplicated many details from it when building the one for my Duster. BTW, the difference in color is only due to lighting, they are a VERY close match using Frank Badelson's paint

How I prepped it was simple, SUPER clean metal using acetone and phosphoric acid wash to clean the iron. No primer, painted with a gun following Frank's instructions. Laid down nice and hasn't chipped or peeled in the least in 3 years.

Totally Auto

I use Bill Hirsch paints...

www.hirschauto.com

Nice job on your 340 Scott

PPG 3116 (Chrysler Mandarin Orange)
At your local PPG dealer.

Not correct shade.

This!

That is what I do. Nason Ful-Thane single stage

What part of there are four shades of orange don't you all get?

No way I would go through all that work and use a rattle can.

Apparently the OP IS willing to do the extra work. That's why he asked.

VHT works great.

Just beautiful MOPARMARKS. How is this for a someone to apply who is not experienced with a real spray gun? Do you need high quality regulator / filter / etc.?

- EM

http://www.hirschauto.com/ENGINE-ENAMEL/productinfo/EE-QUART/CHRY%20HEM%20O/

Bill Hirsch offers engine paint in Quart or Spray Can, his colors are pretty accurate.

Mostly good info in your responses, NOW, should I prime the assembled engine, or just spray directly to cleaned metal?

Duplicolor engine enamels have always worked great for me. Even used their black wrinkle finish paint on my rocker covers. Came out awesome, perfect amount of wrinkle with heat lamps and heat gun. These were polished alum covers originally.

Don't prime unless you have a high heat primer. You don't want the primer to lift cause it will take the orange off with it. Clean the metal with Simoniz brake cleaner and spray the top coat.

No need for high heat paint. Automotive grade urethane will hold up fine and be more chemically resistant than rattle can stuff. Urethane may burn off an area of the intake if the heat crossover is not blocked. Not an issue for me as I always block the crossover. I even use bondo to fill small dents in the valve covers. . I put epoxy primer over everything. The stamped steel parts (valve covers, timing cover , oil pan) should be primed for sure.

No primer required