1973 barracuda.

Parts :
Prebent brake like kit from Inline Tube
Using metering block Inline tube recommended for 4wheel disc
Using manual valve inline recommended to set bias to rear
Stock style master cylinder and booster
Front - Stock style calipers with 11 rotors
Rear - aftermarket conversion kit thAt uses gm eldorado style calipers

I have bled the brakes and all wheels have fluid.

Issues :

No braking at the front
Tight drag on the rear.

Questions :
Will the stock style booster/master combo work with 4wheel discs ?
Is there an adjustment on the rear to reduce drag?

Thanks !

I'd start by setting the booster pushrod clearance to the bottom of the MC piston "thimble" at .020" then "bench" bleed the MC for starters.

Booster maybe, MC. not without mods



Yeah, remove the residual pressure valve out of the front port of the master cylinder.


I hope it is nothing but a distribution block, all disc setups do not use metering.



What does that statement mean? Are you talking about a proportioning valve? And it's adjusted how?

Ok I can do that

Yes, it's just a distribution block. What I was told is that there will be no way to create bias in the system so the guy at Inline Tube told me I need this adjustable valve (look in picture at valve with knob) to set bias by adjusting with this valve.

what a mess.

And is there a difference in a manual a power brake pedal?? the car had a manual MC on it when I got it

it looked like this

Try adjusting more bias to the front.

Not an E body guy so I dunno if there is a difference between manual and power pedals. That adjustable valve is called a proportioning valve. Brake bias can be setup without it, but it takes a thorough knowledge of braking and your specific setup as you will be using caliper bore diameter, pad material, rotor diameter, tire sizing, weight distribution and other issues to dial it in.

Since most people aren't detail oriented and no aftermarket company can cost effectively figure that out for you on an individual basis, unless you are rich, they crutch it with an adjustable valve that is "good enough" for most.

I was naive enough to think I could gather some decent parts, and with my reasonable amount of know-how I could get a braking system that works pretty good. But it is way more complicated than that, I have learned. I am not rich but I ain't broke either but I am not making a show car, race car, or track star - just a cruiser. I believe setting the bias with the proportioning valve will suit my needs. I surely don't want to die or cause anyone else to!

Power vs manual brakes there is a difference in the pedal linkage under the dash. I can get you a pic of the power linkage later if you need. Manual just has a rod directly off from the foot pedal arm into the master. Maybe you are missing the power linkage for the pedal?

Concerning rear calipers, Those look huge, like they are front calipers. You will need to adjust the rear line pressure with the adjustable prop valve you have in the rear line.

Parking brakes -- are they in the caliper or under the rotor hat? If in the caliper, you need to hook up the cables and get the parking brakes to work.

Well, then that mystery/problem is solved. I do, in fact, have a manual brake lever so I am missing the power linkage .

Yes, I do believe these were originally used as a front caliper and the e-brake is built into it. I have all of that set and I will hook it up when I get my new e-brake cable

Looking at the 74 parts manual, since I don't have a 73. The only difference in the pedal itself is manual/automatic trans. Power or manual brakes doesn't matter. Linkage has setup that reduces leverage into the booster, so if anything you'd have too much brakes without it.

I would try loosening up one brake line at a time on the master cylinder, if you see air and brake fluid bubble out of it remove that line and the pressed in brass seat so you can remove the residual valve behind it

I suspect the orientation of the pushrod to the mounting point on the pedal arm is different between the two bc the mounting point on my pedal arm doesn’t line up so I had to do some fabricating to get it to even work. It’s not right. It’s like two inches above the hole in the pedal arm and about three inches away from
It. I knew it wasn’t right but until now I didn’t know what was wrong.
I think I can make it work if I can set the plunger right according to the instructions I have been given here.

.


I will try that and hope I don’t make a big ole mess !

What RR mentioned has nothing to do with what we are talking about. See picture for what your linkage from the pedal tot eh booster is supposed to look like.

What RR is talking about adjusting is the pushrod from the booster to the master cylinder.

Parts manuals

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=107

FSM

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

Get both, use them to assist you

Right, I understand that and maybe I should check that measurement.

I just went out and took these. It seems I am missing some stuff for power brakes

Thank you !

As said a MC used for discs must have no RPV under the brass seat where the brake line screws into the drum half (iirc they went from them to a small round disc in the wheel cyls behind the cups to maintain a slight psi) so the odds are less but with what is going on here I would for sure check. pull (unscrew) the 3/16 line from the drum port & stick a drill bit down in the brass cone & if it has one it is just a piece of neoprene and a spring so you will easily feel it if it has one with the springiness & if by chance it does we will post how to pull it & that is assuming the MC is the correct bore (I ain't sayin it ain't) but there might be a mismatch of parts (I hope not, you have alot invested in this), but just going from the prior posts, I ain't up on this conversion.

Drawing above was pretty clear, but I attached picture of the linkage. Maybe it will help you find it somewhere.