Holley 750 Double pumper list #82751 jetted 70,75 with 5.5 PV
25 front an back with squirters. Transition slots barely showing from bottom
#1 I have a small amount of fuel coming from the vacuum ports
Whats the issue there?

#2 idles/cruise real fat. WOT at 12.5 with fuel meter
I can turn all idle screws and the car wont die until the last
screw is turned in, car runs best with those only turned out 3/4

I am assuming I need to restrict those circuits?

any help would be great, I do have a holley book and its been helping to understand what does what,
Mild 340 FYI street strip

Fuel from what vacuum port? What size are the outer idle air bleeds, primary and secondary? There are occasions where Holley has messed up the calibrations, put two corner bleeds in a 4 corner idle carb...

I am getting a little from both, took the carb off to verify they were under the throttle blades.
front inner 25 outer 71
rear inner 36 outer 28

It sounds like it is idling and driving on the transition circuit, try closing the throttle shafts up so it is on the idle circuit only and see what happens with that change
Let us know what you find out please

That was my thought too, but I would say the front transition slot
is showing maybe an 1/8 to a 1/4 of the full length of the slot from looking from the bottom.
Will give it a shot though

Side note on vacuum readings I got
Idle 900 and 9 lbs
1500 and 15 lbs
2000 and 21 lbs
don't know if the fuel in the port had anything to do with the low # or not??

I hope you mean inches of vacuum, not Lbs.
Close those slots up and start over

Yeah inches, LOL
Closed the slot up and it doesn't want to start
went to 2 1/2 turns out and had to adjust the idle screw to where it will run, too late tonight and rainy so we will see later in the week

If you close the primaries up, you need to open up the secondaries to maintain your idle.

The Double Pumpers are good carbs and lots of guys use them. But as a track oriented carb, they are fat everywhere except WOT when used on the street.

The cruise will be the easy part. Just step down several sizes on the main jets and open up the PVCRs. That will lean the cruise and keep the WOT where you want it. Start with about 4 steps smaller on the mains. The PVCRs will need to be drilled and will require some math to figure out how much. The Holley books have the equation for area. Or you can drill and tap them and use small jets/bleeds.

The idle and transitions are trickier, especially if you have much cam. You will be dealing with the IFRs, IABs, and maybe even the slots and power valve.

The simplest and easiest way to start leaning the idle is to strip out and measure some 14, 16, and smaller gage wire. Start with some individual stands under .010" and insert one in each IFR. That will give you a starting point of how far you will have to go and if you create any other issues by just leaning the IFRs.

I suggest wires for this because the IFRs do not have screw-in jets. For more complex tuning you will need to drill and tap them and buy the necessary small jets. And that is the same for the bleeds up top. Which is a whole other subject.

IHTH

But lets take one step back here:



I think the carb is working fine and what we have here a nomenclature mixup.
The ports you see under the throttle blade are the idle ports.
The term Vacuum port is reserved for the connections on the exterior of the carb, either on the base plate or the primary metering block.

Holley 4150 should have .020" to .040" of transistion slot showing at idle on the primary side. Same or less or secondary side - 4 corner idle.
The opening will look close to square, but you should measure it (use a wire like a spark plag gapper or a drill shank).

Vacuum readings
Idle
900 rpm, and 9 "Hg
1500 rpm, and 15
2000 rpm, and 21

9" on idle for a stock or very mild cam is low.
I'd expect 11" or better with up to a 230 duration cam on 340.
What's the timing at 900 rpm? Should be around 10-14*, 650 rpm for a stock engine, a little higher, say 14 to 18* with increasing more radical cams. That will bring upo the vacuum at idle.

IMO, a 4 corner idle is good for radical engines that don't produce good vacuum at idle. If the engine is mild, then you may find that the idle mix screws will need to be almost all the way in, certainly less than 1 turn out.

Check float level

Are you running an intake with a heat crossover?

Yes. LOL. We always forget the obvipous. I agree. Always start with fuel level - especially when things are dripping when they shouldn't!