I converted a 383 68 cuda from auto to 4 speed and I can not for the life of me get the linkage to work right. I am using a regular 10 1/2 big block clutch housing, and clutch set up. I have the correct z bar for a big block a body that has the off set in the clutch rod side. What happens is I have to have the clutch rod set up too tight that it is on the throw out bearing all the time to get enough travel to release the clutch. Then also on the other hand it has too much travel in the pedal and if you push it all the way to the floor the fingers hit the clutch plate and make bad noises. I actually had two z bars so I cut one up and reduced/increased the travel on both throws on it hoping to eliminate the contact problem. Now it does not have enough travel to release the clutch. I cannot figure out what the original set up was on those cars. I have already talked to Brewers and they are clueless also. I wonder if they used a special throw out fork or fork mount of something. Any one have any experience or ideas please?

i am workin on the same problem if i ajust to where it just off the p.p fingers it has no clutch cant get in reverse & hard shifting i tryed rewelding the z bar still the same all linkage is new works rite had a 833 went to a 5spd same problem put washers under fork pivot helped little i have a old fork im going to cut reweld to try to change geomitroy if u look at the fork its designed bent back i will reweld it more forword just bout had it with the clutch i no im not the first with this prob was it ever designed right

I am using a Lakewood bellhouseing in my 73 Duster 440/4speed.Make sure you have a big block clutch fork, not sure about the actual lengths but there is a big block and small block clutch fork.Also if your running a diaphram clutch take the overcenter spring off.These were used with the Borg/beck pressure plate and help pull the pedal to the floor but won,t let it return. Dave

Are you using an adjustable rod between the torque shaft/z-bar and the clutch fork? If so, which one, A-body?

Are you sure all of the clutch linkage parts, from the pedal to the clutch fork are correct for a '68 BB A-body?

I also have the big block clutch fork
I think its a little shorter than the small block fork.
I am running a lakewood housing and pro parts headers. couldnt use the "factory" bellcrank.
Anyway, there is a "special" big block a body adapter that goes onto the stock bellhousing that moves the bellcrank "stud" to locate the bellcrank position so it lines up with an a body location.
I am thinking "Brewers" has ALL the correct parts needed.
In my situation, I just ordered all the big block stuff and then made it work.
As for the "arms" that You changed?
well, I compared several different bellcranks, from different body styles and the arms, were all "clocked" in the same position. The only thing that varied, was the length, or shape of the arms, and sometimes the position on the bellcrank relating to where on the length of the bellcrank they were.
Also, some bellcranks are shorter to make up for big block, verses small block.
Anyway, its relatively easy to re-work a bellcrank. I do know that space is non existant in an a-body! Especially with headers and a lakewood bellhousing!
I probably learned some new cusswords while making my bellcrank work!
ALSO...sorry...I just remembered that I also had to beef up the area on the other side of the bellcrank where it goes to the inner fender?
I was getting some deflection and that was causing some shifting problems.
I may be able to take a few photo's tomorrow, if it stops raining long enough.
I have to pull the dart out and turn it around in the garage, so I can rebuild the front suspension.
I envy ALL You guys with 2 car garages or bigger!

Yes, I have checked my parts. There is a difference in forks. The big blocks are shorter. I do have two different styles of them. They are the same but one is bent a little more where it come out of the bell housing. As for z bars, I have the correct ball stud arrangement, that works fine. My pedals are out of a 6 cyl car but other than the reinforcement strap at the top I am pretty sure the pedal movement is the same ratio as the v8 pedals. In changing the z bar I lengthened the pedal side to give it more travel to get less rotation. Then I shortened the clutch side to give it less travel for that rotation. I did not change the position of the bars on the tube. It drives me crazy because it is mechanical movement so much in gets so much out. The original big block bar works but I have to run with a stop so that the pedal only goes about 3/4s down so it won't go too far and hit the fingers on the clutch disc springs. But I am sure it is on the throw out bearing all the time. So that is not good either. It should be the same as a big block in a b body, pedal set to just be off the bearing and enough travel to open the clutch and not enough travel to hit the disc. So in my mind it should be get the overall travel right and then adjust that travel to be off the bearing with pedal up and off the plate at the other end. Sounds simple but I can't figure it out. If the positions of the bars are changed on the z bar tube, the travel that the arms do will still be the same, just in a different arc location. So I dont think that is it.