Thanks!

I'm lazy... and I like things easy to work on. Tube K, rack steering, coil overs were one of my better mods. Plenty of room for oil pans, no torsion bars getting in the way of headers, no hassle over getting engine diaper to fit. My chassis shop of choice made my set up, but there are plenty of them out there now that can show up on your porch in a box. We're not terribly serious about this stuff, but we've ran ladder bars on our last two rides. Found they work better than leaves, and once we set corner weights and ride height, we pretty much never touch them. And speaking of lazy, the two piece trans tunnel floor was a really nice addition as well. That also came about as we do run a 727 and the CSR shield wouldn't fit.

btw a nice front end set up delivered to your door: look up Tory Shellehamer on FB. Makes some nice stuff.

Honestly, the only one I have any experience with is the Alterkation. We used those in a restomod deal and they seem to be fine. Car drove great with that and a 4 bar in the rear. I'm sure others have had experience with other units.

There are places that do suspension kits or you can probably source it from NAPA or somewhere. I try to avoid Chinese stuff, but that's hard to do these days. If I were replacing stock stuff, I would probably go on and convert it to '73 and up parts.

If I were building a new car, I would not use a D60 if it were free, unless it were a Stocker and had to be that or a 8.75. Too many negatives. But, ignoring my preference for the 9" - I've seen a lot of cars built where a used rear, that someone pick up cheap, was used and the car was built to the rear, rather than the other way around. They usually end up being a mess - built in a driveway somewhere and not close to being right, brackets are junk, driveshafts run crooked, wheel spacers needed, wheels not in the same place one side to the other or they have to use some queer wheel offset, 4 link is a mess and no way to get the bars in right, etc.

I wouldn't consider it without close inspection and being satisfied that it exactly fits my needs - who built it and was it done correctly; is it straight, square and not bent; where is the pinion offset; how wide is it; what is the C-C of the 4 link brackets; are the brackets 20 years old with an obsolete geometry; etc.? If the car has to be substantially compromised to use it, it's not worth it if it's free.

This is not rocket science to be sure. Lots of proven combos to do what you are trying to do. You need to make a decision on exactly what you want to do with the car. Is this a temporary deal just to have something to race for now. Id its the latter then the KISS principle seems to be a good way to go. You are not making a lot of HP and just about any rear suspension can EASILY handle it. If this is a temporary race car, which is kind of what I'm getting here they why go extravagant. Just fix what needs to be addressed to make the car safe and legal to run. Caltracs are MORE than up to the task of making the car work easily. Why reinvent the wheel or invest a lot of money in something that is going to scratch a temporary itch while you chase/build the NSS car. Seems to me the money is better saved for what your real end goal is. Just make what you have safe and legal go racing and learn.

Geez. I had to go back and read the OP. Didn't catch this was a toy just for this year. Sure don't want to tackle a big project and expect to have it up and running early this season. Or even a small one. I'd be looking for something done, plug a motor in it and go. Always less than building as well.

Thanks all:
I think we will just use the Cal Tracks or, Ladder bars with the narrowed 8.75 that’s already narrowed for the car.
Just back-brace it / set it up and go.
Have good axles already and it matches rub width etc.

Still thinking on the front .

Everything else is just about getting to work.
May run the car a couple year- dusters are fun cars, nice weight .

Just got back from a dyno day- always tired afterwards, not quite sure why a full day at engine dyno is so draining but- for me it is.

Perhaps a few pics of this old car tomorrow .

Thanks again to all for your help.

Be careful putting a brace on that housing. I will bend if not done correctly.

I had a 72 340 Duster that I would love to have back. They are near and dear to my heart.

We will Cm.
Have a really good reared man here who has done many with no failures .

Thanks

I have had a couple Dusters over the years. While maybe not the most sex appeal of the available choices but no doubt they make great racecars. This was one of the ones I have owned over the years. Pretty simple ladder bar car with an iron headed 470" motor that went 9.60's

subframe connectors /body stiffening- US car tools weld in pieces work well?

I'm guilty as charged also... I certainly wouldn't have done some of the things I mentioned on a short term project. I have an S60 in the car, and wish we'd gone 9" based.

...and to me "racecar" usually means trans brake, and 8.75 doesn't fit into the equation at all...

What valve bodies are generally best on 727.

No, not a transbrake car.

Perhaps I should have said a Bracket car.

Doing the work isn’t a problem, we are pretty well equipped shop for mechanicals/ body work etc.

Getting the right combo worked out and parts here to work with is the concern.
Budget is fine so far.

Fwiw- I really do appreciate everyone here- your help has been truly that- helpful.

Turbo action reverse manual shift valve body, the only way to go foot brake racing a Mopar
Same thing on a converter, buy a really good one, don't mess around with any thing less

Thanks Cab

Do you know if anyone makes a really good rebuild kit for the 727 - good parts, clutches /plates etc, etc.

Seems to be a million out there these days.
Thanks Again.

Cope Racing has some nice rebuild kits. John Cope is also very helpful if you have questions.

I buy all of my torqueflyte parts form Pro Trans in Lancaster, CA from Dave Smith 661-940-7400
Make sure and tell them that your building a foot brake bracket transmission and how much HP you think it will make

thanks again guys

Ok- mini tub set up/ spring move allows me a 15x10 with 3.5 backspace.

Tire size recommendations as well as Rim.
Weld’s are pretty normal of course.
Lot of rim companies out there but,,,,,,,,

Also- wilwood has a bolt on rear disc brake setup that looks good and doesn’t break the bank- just drag lights , look to be stable.

Anyone used them?

Thanks again to all .

If you are watching you budget do some measuring. My sons 1970 Duster has a 15-10 wheel and I think 5 inch backspace. Stock location caltracks with mono leafs. Stock wheelwells and ran a 10 inch micky Thompson slick but has now switched to radials. Last time out he ran 6.54 in the 1/8 mile with a fresh 360 and zero tuning

Anyone know exactly where to cut, or, take a pie cut out of the front of the rear quarters at the front of rear wheel wells for slick clearance ?
I think I know where I want to make the cut but would like to confirm.
It’s just really tight on the front side of the tire on the lowest side of the wheelwell.

I know I have seen pics, read an article but danged if I can find either .

Parts rolling in next week, trying to get as much done as possible before they arrive.
Thanks again for all the help.

Plan as it stands:
Finish pulling trim.
Media blast engine bay / prep for paint .
Strip/ sand body/ media blast what is needed.
Should finish most of that tomorrow .

Interior is stripped out other than main wiring section from dash/ steering volume to engine bay- it comes out in the morning.
I will retain twilight and headlight electrical runs.

Clean/ prep interior metals for primer/ paint.- hope to finish prep tomorrow or Monday.

Strip/ DA body for primer/ paint-/ paint engine bay, should finish by Monday night.


Body work and primer should go pretty quickly this week.

Wheels and Tires arrive Tuesday.

Strange spool/ 8.75 build kit arrives Wednesday and rear goes to our builder .
Get it back Thursday or Friday .

727 trans kit from A&A should get here Thursday or Friday.

Gerst tubular front suspension , coil overs, Viking dual adjutibke shocks should arrive Thursday.

Cal Trac’s/ split mono - probably Friday.
AR engineering motor plate - hopefully by Friday.
Fuel cell/ pumps/ regulators/ seats hopefully by Friday.

Start mock up of driveline by Saturday .
Hopefully take a correct roller to Fabricator by following Monday or Tuesday for cage - get car back Friday or Saturday to final the body, stick in booth for paint and start final assembly .

I think we can pull this together if build schedule doesn’t get completely blown up prior to final assembly .

If my math is right and, due to the help here- should be a fun car and, be on time for season here .

Caveat- Car hits a frame machine early Monday to be checked- if all is well, a very short visit, couple hours maybe.
If not- I will lose a day or two.

Having a blast in Texas!