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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474338
03/30/18 12:43 PM
03/30/18 12:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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There will be no issue using standard width chevy rods. People have been doing this for decades without issue.
You will need to turn down the counterweights on the crank
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474339
03/30/18 12:44 PM
03/30/18 12:44 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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I have one in the making (no chebby rods tho) & on a side note FYI I the first thing I did was turn the counterweights down to 7.250" along with turning the mains down to B size after mocking up main bearings to get a dimention to work with to give to the grinder. No ans to your Q tho but this might get things going for you.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474346
03/30/18 01:09 PM
03/30/18 01:09 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Yes but if Trendz says it will be OK I would take his word for it, he's a sharp guy/knows his stuff.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474373
03/30/18 01:54 PM
03/30/18 01:54 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
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No need to do that, I've had a bunch of cranks, stockers and after market stroker cranks, offset stroke from 3.750 to 3.91 and from 4.150 to 4.300 and none of them where ground narrow to GM specs  I was around when this trend started in fact and a lot of former doubters on here swear I would be swallow up in oil smoke from excessive oil on the cylinder walls  The rod and main bearing clearances dictate how much oil comes out of them, not the rod side clearances  My first 400 stroker motor made from a Ohio Crankshaft CO. Hemi 4.150 forged steel crankshaft core had 4.250 stroke with 2.200 rod journal sizes and 400 main sizes, it had from .052 to .039 rod side clearances using a CAT brand 6.800 long BB Chevy type H beam rod. It is still running today after being shifted at or above 7000 RPM a bunch of times, 1000+ runs when I had it  I have a 440 block in the shop now that was delivered from the machine shop with a 440 crank offset ground to 3.90 with a set of Icon pistons, I have two 400 block are their now for machining new 440 Source aluminum main caps with ARP studs, both block will have 4.250 stroke crankshafts and BB Chevy type H beam and I beam rods    Don't sweat the petty stuff, we won't steer you wrong on this 
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 03/30/18 01:55 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2474400
03/30/18 02:48 PM
03/30/18 02:48 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,522
Ste-Sophie, Quebec, Canada
Wedgeman
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,522
Ste-Sophie, Quebec, Canada
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No need to do that, I've had a bunch of cranks, stockers and after market stroker cranks, offset stroke from 3.750 to 3.91 and from 4.150 to 4.300 and none of them where ground narrow to GM specs I was around when this trend started in fact and a lot of former doubters on here swear I would be swallow up in oil smoke from excessive oil on the cylinder walls The rod and main bearing clearances dictate how much oil comes out of them, not the rod side clearances My first 400 stroker motor made from a Ohio Crankshaft CO. Hemi 4.150 forged steel crankshaft core had 4.250 stroke with 2.200 rod journal sizes and 400 main sizes, it had from .052 to .039 rod side clearances using a CAT brand 6.800 long BB Chevy type H beam rod. It is still running today after being shifted at or above 7000 RPM a bunch of times, 1000+ runs when I had it I have a 440 block in the shop now that was delivered from the machine shop with a 440 crank offset ground to 3.90 with a set of Icon pistons, I have two 400 block are their now for machining new 440 Source aluminum main caps with ARP studs, both block will have 4.250 stroke crankshafts and BB Chevy type H beam and I beam rods Don't sweat the petty stuff, we won't steer you wrong on this Are you serious ? No worry about side play? All right, If you say so ...I'm with you ! Do you recommend something special about the main caps ? Thanks Dan
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: DusterKid]
#2474404
03/30/18 02:50 PM
03/30/18 02:50 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,522
Ste-Sophie, Quebec, Canada
Wedgeman
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,522
Ste-Sophie, Quebec, Canada
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Not to hi jack this thread, but curious to how much it costs to have a 440 crank turn down to make a 400 into a 470? 500$ I'm better off right now than importing with customs and money exchange (30%) Dan
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474500
03/30/18 06:51 PM
03/30/18 06:51 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
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Are you serious ? No worry about side play? All right, If you say so ...I'm with you ! Do you recommend something special about the main caps ? Thanks Dan [/quote] If your going to race it and want to spin the motor above 7000 RPM and push the tune up to get the last bit of performance out of it then you may need after market main caps If not, don't worry about them   One of the NHRA S/G racers that lived down the street from me years ago that I use to help broke several stock 400 block main caps, he always pushed the tune up for max MPH also If your wanting, even thinking of, hopping it up more later buy some aluminum, NOT STEEL  main caps and ARP main studs now and have that work taken care to start with NOW I've been using the 7075 aluminum main caps from 440 Source for the last five race motors I've built for myself and my customers since I can't find or buy Ductile iron main caps now for the last five years 
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474746
03/31/18 03:58 AM
03/31/18 03:58 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
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Go with the longest rod you can get to fit right to help reduce piston to cylinder wall angle and loading as well as getting a lighter piston My current 4.25 stroke 400 motor has 4.700 long BB Chevy rods in it, the first one I built a long time ago had 6.800 long BB Chevy rods in it which ended up putting the .990 wrist pin into the oil ring land which made me have to use oil ring spacers to seal that up adding additional ring weight and maybe a tiny bit more weight onto the pistons The next all out 400 stroker motor I build will have a set of Crower billet steel BB Chevy type rods that are 6.535 long because I have them along with the good used Windberg 4.250 stroke crankshaft that came with them Shooting for 850+ HP with a good set of CNC ported 440-1 heads from that motor 
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 03/31/18 03:59 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2474835
03/31/18 12:12 PM
03/31/18 12:12 PM
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Superfreak
Unregistered
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Superfreak
Unregistered
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If you need hands on help contact Nick of Nick's Garage, he is up your way in Laval (38km from you) and he loves mopars.
Last edited by Superfreak; 03/31/18 12:15 PM.
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2476129
04/02/18 02:50 PM
04/02/18 02:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,355
Bend,OR USA
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ABout the main caps..Milodon makes ductile iron caps. Aren't they any better than the alu ones ?
Dan They advertised them still but they don't sell them any more, steel or aluminum only Mopar use to sell ductile iron main caps a long time ago like Milidon did, no more, same thing at Keith Black BTW, DO NOT go to cross bolted main caps and girdles That weakens the heck out of the main webbing and it is a big waste of time and money A good set of aluminum main caps and ARP main studs in a good sonic tested 400 block and your good to go up to 850 HP
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2476322
04/02/18 08:25 PM
04/02/18 08:25 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 883
Affton MO
qwkmopardan
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 883
Affton MO
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Eagle makes a .250 long, 6.385, chevy rod that is chrysler width, 1.007". part# 6385C3D. KB icon #IC-824, 1.660 CH X 4.375 bore, would work for pistons if block would clean up at 9.995". A good machine shop could spin .010 or .015 thousandths from top of pistons if needed, or a thicker head gasket could be used. I know plenty of guys run with the wide side clearance but I prefer not to. If it was acceptable the factorys would have made them with more side play. I have a 383 with the 6.385 rods and 3.900 stroke that made 675HP +/-, at 10.5 to 1 CR with 915 heads. Broke the camshaft at 1300 passes and bearings looked almost new. Also, aluminum is good for cylinder heads and beer cans, not so much for connecting rods and main caps. Unless you want to spend another $800 for caps, line bore and hone + bearings, rings, etc. after a few hundred passes. I would have to do tear my junk down at half season to replace them. I don't plan on a freshin up until 1000 or more passes. My 2 cents
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Re: Engine builder help !
[Re: Wedgeman]
#2476434
04/02/18 09:12 PM
04/02/18 09:12 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
MattW
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,776
Ontario Canada
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Google SKMFX engines in Summerstown Ontario. Jesse has build some pretty stout 471 and even entered one in the Engine masters challenge.
613-931-2157 ask for Jesse
Last edited by MattW; 04/02/18 09:13 PM.
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