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As for the clear coat....... i would have known that the clear coat would look so nice i would have done my car with it, but for now i'm driving the crap out of it so i'm happy, maybe in a few years i will repaint the charger from all the stone chips, stuff i drop on the car ect....

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As for the clear coat....... i would have known that the clear coat would look so nice i would have done my car with it, but for now i'm driving the crap out of it so i'm happy, maybe in a few years i will repaint the charger from all the stone chips, stuff i drop on the car ect....

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So if you were going to use the Tremclad Clear as a top coat "69" how would you go about using it?

Thin with lacquer thinner 5%, use a white foam roller and....?

Would you still sand the final 6th coat with 1500- 2000 grit and then topcoat with clear, or
no sanding and just clear?

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i would finish the last coat and sand with 800-1000, leave the "dull/flat" finish (no polish) and go straight to clear, maybe 2 coats, the stuff is allready thin as water almost, it would need a very small amount of laquir thinner, then i would wetsand with 1000 and polish after the 2nd coat, or maybe do 3 coats, depending on how thin you apply them, the stuff levels better than the paint, and goes on super smooth, you could almost get away with just a polish if you do it right, and skip the wetsand. it all depends on your application of the clear, and how good you are at it.

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after seeing exit's issue with coverage with the red paint, I'd be tempted to "prime" the whole car with a single color, be it white or whatever.

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exit is taking alot of time to make his car "perfect" that requires alot more work, thin coats, and more of them. the result will be a really nice paint job, i just did 2 med/thin coats to get coverage, and went succesivly thinner in coats when i approached the 6th coat, so i would'nt have to wetsand. the alternative is to just apply 2 medium coats to get coverage, then wetsand that, then proceed with really thin coats to get that perfect finish. But exit- you really should pull the car in the sun and have a look at it, in the garage, under artificall light, i can see flaws on my 2000's cars factory paint, in the sun it's a totally different story.

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Thanks Marq, that was exactly what i was hoping for, and very detailed. I will surely do that...

Anyone got any thoughts on question number 1?

Thanks a million for this thread!!! My buddies all think i'm insane already for wanting to roller my car, but hey, i DO live in Tennessee....

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Marq gave excellent advice, marq - u must be in the business!!!! lol,

i can tell you from expirence that you really don't need to use the high heat stuff, just use the same paint as you would on the car, rustoleum/tremclad. As i mentioned a long time ago, the paint is very good at tollerating heat, my 74 beetle was painted underhood, and the rear apron with the tremclad, and air cooled VW's run HOT, VERY HOT, 6yrs and no issues with dammage to the paint from heat, so any water cooled car would have no issues at all. i would prep the area following marq's suggestions, they are excellent, and use the spray can in matching color gloss to do all the nooks and cranny's, resist the urge to apply heavy coats, and let each coat dry overnight, apply the first 2 coats as a "mist" coat and you'll be fine. if you spray it right with thin coats, there's no need to wetsand, the finish will be excellent. BTW the paint is very resistant to gas/oil/coolant, trust me i know, don't ask me how , lets just say "i know a guy"!!!!!

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I have a few questions before I get started. My friend just picked up an EF hatch, the car is in well good condition but the paint and body definately is not, so we are deciding to paint it this method (we want to do it to our main cars but don't wanna mess them up).

Now the car does have rust and we will have to prep it, I've read probably every page of this but I just have a few questions.

What is the easiest way to get rid of the rust? Just sand it down and use the rustoleum over it, or should I apply something over the rusted areas first?

And secondly, what is the easiest way to prep your car, or can I get some tips. I'm planning on picking up a small palm sander and using that for the larger parts (hood, roof, trunk, side...etc) and then for the corners and areas that contour just using my hand and the sand paper? And preferably what grits should I use to prep it with. Last...I know a lot of people say after they prep it they basically get it down to where it feels like glass, is that what I should be looking for?

The palm sander I'm talking about is something like this

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/mattthecommie/untitled.jpg

Let me know if theres anything better.

Thanks, Matt.

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this paint method is like any other, you prep the same regardless of what paint you use. don't take short-cuts repairing rust, or it'll be back quick. grind all rust out until you see clean bare metal, then grind a bit more, even though you can't see it, the metal is still oxcidzed, and will rust again. it's better to completely remove all rust and even use bondo or fiberglass if you have to and don't have a welder to put in new metal than to just sand the rust and paint alone. how you prep the car determines the end quality of the paint job, it's the most important step in painting.

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I have a few questions before I get started. My friend just picked up an EF hatch, the car is in well good condition but the paint and body definately is not, so we are deciding to paint it this method (we want to do it to our main cars but don't wanna mess them up).

Now the car does have rust and we will have to prep it, I've read probably every page of this but I just have a few questions.

What is the easiest way to get rid of the rust? Just sand it down and use the rustoleum over it, or should I apply something over the rusted areas first?

And secondly, what is the easiest way to prep your car, or can I get some tips. I'm planning on picking up a small palm sander and using that for the larger parts (hood, roof, trunk, side...etc) and then for the corners and areas that contour just using my hand and the sand paper? And preferably what grits should I use to prep it with. Last...I know a lot of people say after they prep it they basically get it down to where it feels like glass, is that what I should be looking for?

The palm sander I'm talking about is something like this

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/mattthecommie/untitled.jpg

Let me know if theres anything better.

Thanks, Matt.

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this paint method is like any other, you prep the same regardless of what paint you use. don't take short-cuts repairing rust, or it'll be back quick. grind all rust out until you see clean bare metal, then grind a bit more, even though you can't see it, the metal is still oxcidzed, and will rust again. it's better to completely remove all rust and even use bondo or fiberglass if you have to and don't have a welder to put in new metal than to just sand the rust and paint alone. how you prep the car determines the end quality of the paint job, it's the most important step in painting.

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When you say "grind" do you use any special tool, or just a low grit sand paper? Again, I've never painted a car or anything so I'm pretty new to most of this stuff and want to try my best the first time around.

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weather u use a grinder, wire wheel, sand paper, it does'nt matter, just make sure you have clean metal with no rust, then grind/sand more.