https://www.summitracing.com/parts/poi-45208/overview/

Anyone use this stuff?

your thoughts?..........Thaxs

I've had good luck with it but there are a LOT of people that hate the stuff.

Works best on pretty crusty substrates.

I have never used it. I have used Eastwood "Rust Encapsulator" primer with good results. Also red Rustoleum primer. Key with any of these is to get any grease off and also get any loose paint or loose corrosion cleaned before application.

I've used it, I have several cans of the gloss and semi gloss as well as the grey
It stops the rust but if it is exposed to sunlight it needs a top coat of paint to protect it from the U.V and infra red rays
I've used it on the rear end housings and floors so far with no complaints or problems

How long has it last, wondering if this stuff breaks down over years and allow moister to enter causing rust over a period of time......Thax for the response

Just don`t get it on the skin. It is really hard to get off.

Be sure to time your, 'needs', so you don't need to go 'need' while por-15ing on your car, and so not on your hootus.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/inde...y-hootus.18595/

Its a very tough epoxy paint. We tried using in the blind locations (inside quarters). Didn't hold up in that (mis)use. No paint will because the surface can't be prepped properly. If there is rust, use their rusty metal primer. Rustoleum rusty metal primer should be compatible, but that will be your risk if you want to try it instead.

The biggest complaints I recall are people saying it pealed off. I would recomend only using on surfaces with a lot of mechanical tooth.

Too thick it will peel. Clean surface it will peel. Not for me.......

I've used it with no problems.

Don't get it on your skin (or anything else) because it doesn't come off.

Let me start out saying I believed it in a lot. I personally have used several gallons of the stuff before.

I put some on both sides a pair of sandblasted box sides that spent the winter in my heated, dry garage. Both box sides had rust showing through the POR 15 the next spring. The rust was under the POR covering and it wasn't flaking off or anything. I have bare sheet metal in my garage that didn't have that much rust on it after being in the same garage for more then 10 years.

I've had some on the bottom of my 77 Dodge truck cab the peeled off in sheets. I've had some that was still stuck to the metal so well it couldn't scratch off but the metal under the paint was rotted away. Then there is the back of the sheet metal sign in my yard. I spread some POR on the back side of it that was left over from something I was covering with it. The sign was unprepared, I simply POR on the sign back. 3-4 years later, the black POR was starting to fade, so I had some paint left over from painting a truck and emptied the spray gun on the sign back (didn't even wipe the dirt off). 10 years latter, the back of that sign looks great!

The deal with the box sides was the final straw for POR for me. When it couldn't even protect sandblasted sheet metal inside my shop for 3 months, I quit using it. Gene

Thaxs for the info. Gents can bondo be applied over this stuff?

Thaxs for the heads-up cause that's one of the spots I was wanting to use this stuff (inner cab quarters)I'll checkout there primers.

We use it inside of doors, 1/4s, cowls etc. It hardens like concrete. Use a hand pump sprayer and and let run out the openings. Make sure the area under the car is covered cause when it drips on the concrete it's never coming off. It does not like clean shiny metal.
Doug

We had it on a lot of stuff, a lot of it pealed. We're using lizard skin now

It says you can paint over rust. It should say, "you have to paint over rust" Get it on anything else and it seems to come off.

Try Ospho

ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/322607362234?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D49e45d4f138447d0bf32ba4795171807%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226

This doesn't put a heavy coat on anything and is made to paint over. I haven't used it long enough to give it a "time" test, but when you read the chemical uses of this stuff, it seems like it is a better answer.

Cab corners should be OK as I would think you can see everything.
If it's a blind or a location it can't be applied properly, pouring it in doesn't work. As other people have mentioned, the rust continues to grow. For blind hidden corners, something like Waxoil is better approach.

Two paints that are pretty effective over rust are Corroless (you'll have to get it from UK) and Hammerite. Corroless is a primer but its highly resistant to moisture permeating through it. It was imported by Eastwood until they started selling their own label 'encapsulator' - they initially claimed it was the same. It's not. Not even related. Hammerite is available here and the formula appears to be the same as UK.

I used a bunch of it years ago and did not have a good experience. Purchased all the expensive prep stuff and the paint and followed the directions. Last year I used a hand scraper and scraped a bunch off that had rust bubbles forming underneath it. Ironically, stuff that I painted around the same time using a cheap rattle can has held up better.

In my opinion this stuff does not live up to the hype and is not worth the price. When it does stick, it is difficult to remove. Therefore, I'd rather use a regular paint that will likely hold up better and will be easier to remove later if I want to freshen a part up.

It's garbage. I bought into the hype and bought all their expensive prep products before I knew any better. I applied it on cleaned, scuffed and prepped oem paint. I also applied it to lightly rusted steel that I cleaned and prepped as per POR's instructions. 6 months later most of it was gone like it had never been there, what was left was peeling off like when you pick glue or silicone off your hands. If you're intent on using it, save yourself a few steps and place your money straight into a garbage can.

Now I paint everything properly with a catalyzed epoxy primer. I have never seen the pros using crap in a can like POR, always the legit 2 part stuff.