and NEVER think a GOOD [re]wiring will be a one or two day job. especially if planning to use as little wire [weight] as possible. it takes some thought if done right. also, NEVER, EVER use those cheapy crimping pliers that come in those eleventybillion piece terminal kits that cost $2.99. they don't produce a proper crimp, and that leads to heat at the connection, which can cause many problems. like burning your ride to the ground to name one !

Lee when your ready to tear into it shoot me a PM...I've done some changing on mine and found a few better ways to approach things...
It costs a few bucks but nothing you can't handle...
No titanium will be involved...

Well put.

I got 3-4 different crimping tools that I use depending on the connector. I even have the one for the Packard terminals which I kinda detest using cause I never seem to get a decent crimp with it. But, when I do get it right, it's a thing of beauty!

I've mentioned this before here but I have gotten away from using solder on every connection. 95% of the time a good crimp and shrink tubing is all that's needed. The factory didn't solder connectors for obvious reasons but their crimps lasted 50 years. It's likely negligible but when we're talking ounces, all that lead can definitely add up. Plus, you can wind up using more material to cover the connections.

On the wiring topic, the weight can obviously add up with a trunk battery since you have to run a long, heavy cable the entire length of the car. It gets worse with an alternator since that wire needs to be fairly heavy too. Most guys like to use the heaviest gauge wire, like a 1/0 but I believe you can get away with a thinner gauge wire if all your crimps and support wiring are sufficient. Might be easier on an A body though since the run is not quite as long as a B body, there's slightly less voltage drop over the length of the wire.

Lee, don't you have some ultra light battery cable?

Aluminum wire strand cable. It's made by Accel and so far has been good.
Saved about 3.5 lbs on that alone over the old copper cable I had on the thing since 1990.

RMCHGR, the next time you put on the blind folds and get into the shuttle dark cars to come over to THE AREA, we gotta talk on crimps and wires.
I'll reach out to you too Skick, Wanna hear you out on what you doing.

XS also makes aluminum strand copper coated lightweight wire we have used it for years with no ill affects.

Yes, that's it. I forgot that it is copper plated aluminum wire. Bends well and contours well around tight spots. I try and keep it as straight as possible.

+1 have it on my streeter...found good prices on automotive audio sites...

I'm sure Jenny Craig used LOTSA thinner in the paint to lighten it up....LOL
This winter The "rewire" project and chute install will be done.Made it to the track this past weekend and had the pleasure of RMCHRGR in my pit to witness my happiness.

Here is my Jenny Craig report.

Is that with you in the car (TOP 3690 LBS)and curb weight (BOTTOM 3485 LBS)?
If so, that pup is still porky, but I know what you did last Summer....... LOL.
Lets get it lean and mean without touching anything else.

Chippin away.Just sent my renawal to Jenny Still have aluminum strut bars,Strange master,remove the clutch pedal and loose the spagetti!

Struts and master should shed about 8 Lbs maybe 9 with the Pasta.
The third leg peddle should shed about another 2 Lbs.

Indeed, I was surprised to hear that number BUT... it is still 3,700 lbs!! It's a good start for sure. 200 lbs = two tenths off your ET. Did you weigh your bumpers before you took 'em off? Or the heads?

We've mentioned this before here but aluminum strut bars on the street are not the safest idea, especially since that heap is so nose heavy with the windy pachyderm. I considered them at one point myself but decided against it. Better to have some beef there, those things take pretty much all the braking force applied to the front end. The master cylinder is a no brainer though.

Perhaps now that you have the J bars tying the front together you can safely remove some of the inner fender sheet metal since it's not supporting anything anymore.

Struts are made from 7075 solid billet aluminum.
So far I've had mine for quite a few years, but then again my car has been off road for a while but also much, much lighter than the Elephant in the room. LOL
If that car were to shed about 400 Lbs, it would be really nasty, not that it isn't nasty already.
I think I can find at least 200 Lbs in there somewhere without exotica going wild, but it all depends on time, budget and what Itis is willing to painstakingly do. Maybe we can chimmy in and buy him a stage III Max Wedge aluminum front end.LOL.

As well, can't wait to see Haze's 62' Savoy next Spring. It's getting a few feather tricks. Nothing out of the ordinary, but shedding the Winter hairs.

I'm only legal to 8.50 with this car.I might do that with what I have, expect to have an 8 second slip next time out in a few weeks

If you breach the 8 mark you might acquire a new alias for your self to be called 8Ball. 8Ball in the corner pocket.

Nope , love this Thread

There are several ways to increase the ET.The 2 main ways are more HP and less weight.While I'm enjoying my expensive membership to Jenny Craig,I am approaching the next hurdle of being legal to 8.50.I anticipate that waving finger that will occur at 150 MPH. I have the CM tubing to fab the 'chute mount and will be getting the parachute,release handle and cable from Santa or Hanukah Charlie.I went 6.0 in the 1/8 and 9.3 in the 1/4 with 6 lbs of boost.Me thinks about 10 lbs should get me close to that 8.50,,,,,,we'll find out in the spring.I am going to really enjoy that 8 second time slip

You'd already be in the 8's with a converter that slips less than 21% and a ladder bar under the rear Mr. Stubborn-I'm-gonna-do-it-on-leaf-springs...

Ask your crew chief, he agrees.

Itis, get off your own sickness of "cheaper than a church mouse" and get the right convertor under there. Those heads are hungry now and perhaps asking for more pine tar in the slippage department.
I sure did with a Lenny unit and made a whole lot of difference in the right direction. Let me not discount "Top Boys trans magic as well.

I would suspect a more realistic deep bottom 9's with a convertor or bar link setup, but a ceiling 8's with some weight loss in the right places in conjunction with the convertor and link.