Old .060 426 Hemi block with badly grooved cylinders, needs all 8 sleeved, one was already sleeved in the past. Can they typically be re-sleeved?

Yes.

Absolutely
Make sure and take the block to a good Hi Po machine shop, not your local automotive rebuilder shop
You might want to think about buying ductile iron sleeves also instead of your every day cheap rebuilder sleeves
Not cheap but they are way better than standard rebuilder sleeves, after all it is a hemi, correct

Cab
Have you ever ran a block with all 8 bores sleeved? Any issues?

You are better off IF all of them are bored
or done at one time.. I've had the same cyl
done twice(broke) on my R3 block.. that way
the block distortion is minimal

There was just a post a couple weeks ago about this same thing, all said no problem if done right. Barton said he alternates the boring from bank to bank, block ends up stronger with the good sleeves.

Here's Ray's (RBRE) reply about 8 sleeves.


"We have done it for years. Doing a Hemi right now dated Oct 11, 1963! We always bore one cylinder on one bank and then one on the other. Then we install the sleeves. Then do two more on opposite banks. Some shops just bore out all 4 or 8 and then bang them all in which really pushes the block around. We also never do 2 cylinders side by side. If you start with a center cylinder you can then move to the far end cylinder then go to the opposite end cylinder and then the other center and never do two side by side. Same with honing. Also, we always use dry ice or liquid nitrogen to drop the sleeves in without banging on them. You always need to align hone afterwards. -- Ray"

I wonder if any of the fastest SS cars have eight sleaves in them, just for the performances edge.

Heard that back-in-the-day lo-buck fuel racers would strengthen 392 blocks by sleeving all 8.
Someone dubbed them "Econovans" after the Donovan aftermarket block.

I haven't needed to, many of the SB Mopar stocker that I race with did
As far as pressing them in across from each other versus all on the same side at the same time isn't something I'm familiar with
I do know several reputable good high performance machine shops in SO CA that will finish hone one cylinder at a time and alternate from one in front then wait 45 minutes for cylinder wall cooling to do one in the back of the block alternating so they never hone two cylinders beside each other
Not every shop will even listen to me about doing my honing that way

Like said already, no problem resleeving a cylinder that's already been sleeved...typically.
The type of shop that does it doesn't matter as long as the machinist knows what he's doing.

Thanks for the responses guys. Next problem is going to be if there is enough deck left to true up the sleeves and get rid of the o-rings(fire-rings?).

Unless someone has already decked the crap out of it, the grooves should only be about .035 deep. They should machine out easily.

As someone already mentioned, use a high quality, ductile iron sleeve. They cost more but they are much better.

I can't recall how many blocks I've re-sleeved every hole on. If you work on big forklifts and other equipment like that, it's normal to sleeve the block several times.

I wouldn't have a clue which brand of sleeve is quality vs another.

A thin deck is a real possibility. Somebody raced this thing HARD. Looks to have been windowed twice, repaired twice, and run again. Some pretty extensive de-burring all over, and the sides have been milled flat except for the bell and starter mounting areas. Not even the motor mount pads were spared so its only good for using a motor plate/elephant ears. It was a cheap buy.
If its buildable, I plan to just use it as a test mule.

There is Ford blue under the orange paint, wonder if Jake King ever had his hands on this block, lol.