He isn't renamed The Palm Reader for no reason so to keep him from obsessing over the body lines, I told him the factory lightweight Hot rods were far from perfect. In fact they were notoriously out of alignment with doors, hoods not opening so perfect and bumpers hanging lower in some places.
Next will be the wind wings or vent windows as they're called to be installed. Making a few items for those jammies since they are the heaviest part of the door aside from the shell itself.

The doors look awesome. So I have a question and it may have already been asked and buried in the replies somewhere.

Which is lighter 1/2 aluminum tube or the -8 lightweight hose for fuel cell to carb distribution block? This should take into account fittings and everything involved. Second part of this question I want to put 3/8 tube to each carb on the 6 pack would aluminum tube work for this? Inverted flare or an AN fitting?

Thanks, guys

Are you talking lightweight hose like XRP or Russels?

I have to say that the XRP featherweight stuff, though a little pricey is super light and very manageable around turns in the chassis. It also is very attractive in being simply black in color.
On the other hand, the aluminum fuel line is also ultra light but needs to be installed with good clamps along the way to prevent dreaded vibration. It is extremely difficult to bend correctly without kinking it or collapsing it. I went this route and it looks fantastic, but I had sore hands, muscles and no curse words left in me for the next few days after almost a week of routing it and making careful mandrel bends.
My setup is 1/2 aluminum hard line from the tanks pick up all the way to the firewall just underneath the wheel well. The XRP starts at the fire wall to the carb from there.

I don't see why not for the 3/8 aluminum tube at the carbs. Just make sure your inverted flares are neat and strong. Lots of work, but rewarded later.
Both the aluminum 1/2 line and lightweight hose are within ounces of each other at the very least or the same. Not too much fittings for either one depending on how neat and carefully you route it through the chassis.

Thank you on the doors. It has been a long elusive road to find them and a longer road of friendship to get TPR to massage them.

speaking of fuel line weight, has anyone considered the new car plastic hard line ? i wonder what it weighs compared to the others mentioned ? the one considerable drawback to it would be what to use for the necessary bends needed for routing. is anything even available ? or for that matter, is it even available in 1/2" size ? or should it be even considered at all ?

Is it NHRA approved??

I wouldn't even consider the plastic for anything containing any flammable liquid. Period.
How the OEMs get away with it is beyond me.

Never heard about or seen plastic lines, but I would imagine that NHRA and other sanctioning bodies would not approve of them.
The question is: will RACE fuels over time brittle the plastic or even start to chemically break it down/dilute it?
If anything good comes out of it, it would be for cooler fuel over the distance of the chassis.
Talking along those lines, I once thought of creating a slim silo type of ice box that runs the straight length of the fuel line with the fuel line impregnated in it that could be packed with dry ice to super cool the fuel as it sits and travels through the line on its way to the carbs.

Check out The Palm Readers homemade delete plate for the heater blower motor and hose spout on the firewall of his 68' WannaBEE.

Made from the lid of a family size can of beans and meticulously trimmed and painted to look some what Factory stock.
Trust me guys, y'all are going to read up about this car in the future and it takes masquerade painting to an all new level of stealth. It is second to none on details and should haul the mail decently across town.
Area 51 is fuming with vapors. My spray paint knowledge and stash is working wonders.LOL.

Here's the Palm Readers new 3.5 steel driveshaft welded up and all.

What's behind car cover #3?
Hemi should fire up sometime this Fall with some good mineshaft air as it's first breath.

I dig the whole basement/underground vibe your shop/garage has..........

Like a below ground level bunker and a secret lab all in one it truly is, but the car really started getting it's enhancements in the old Brooklyn Navy Yard where no one other than employees or tenants were allowed in its gates by security. It was like 1940's Government classified policies as to who was let in or out. The guards were used to seeing the car leaving and coming back during the nights of duty.
Hence the Area 51 name.
Now in this new grotto, I kind of reflect on it as the Woodward garage of the Northeast just like Tom Hoover and the Chrysler engineers had back in the (D)day.

One time working in there from one afternoon till when I finished, I came out the next day to the surprise of sunlight in my eyes and birds chirping. LOL.
On another note just to clarify why my nom de plume is FMJ. I don't have any firearms or even ever shot one in my entire life, but the car as y'all know is made out of a good menu of various metals. Hence Fullmetaljacket.

I bet you have Thumped on quite a few X brand egos on the street with that Dart.

Oh, I almost forgot to highlight the silly trick/s going on down there and not tell a little lie. That steel (LOOKING) drive shaft from my co-conspirator's car is actually aluminum, but painted with a host of transparent spray paint can colors/hues to mimic the look of a steel weld bead complete with heat soak marks and all.
We just get bored down there sometimes with the lack of oxygen. LOL

Installed in the car. Though he should have opted for a Dana as his carrier in a stick car, I guess under the F.A.S.T class maneuvers on the line, the 8 should survive for a bid longer. Perhaps.....

Dig it and I have surprised a few over the years w/more to come I hope...........

TD. Keep those cylinder fires stoked, that Dart hauls the overnight mail.
When I receive my door hinge Titanium bolts and reinstall the hinges, I'll post them on here.

After reading this board the past couple years since buying my 75 dart I've finally signed up to make my first post as I have an official weight of my car. Lots of great info posted here over the years and so glad to keep it going.

75 Dodge Dart Sport Hang 10 edition. Residing currently in Ontario Canada.

3095 Lbs as the car currently sits.

I've done the usual, aluminum heads (indy 360-1), Indy Intake, TTI 1 7/8 headers, Milodon oil pan, B&M extra capacity transmission oil pan, the car has custom subframe connectors welded in, a strange engineering Modular Ford 9 inch that's back braced from them, 35 spline axles and a full spool. I swapped the rear drums at the same time for wilwood 4 piston dynalite disc brakes. Removed the radio (5lb), antenna, wiring, sound deadening where I could find it, removed the washer fluid bottle, rear fold down rear seat, separator panel, bench as well for rear and the plastics over the wheel arches and rear trunk plastics as well as stripped the trunk of spare tire, tire iron, the trunk card board separator and relocated battery to the rear and put in a universal alum battery box.

I also removed the passenger seat (40lbs) center console (16 lb), swapped from the stock 15x7 and 15x8 rallye wheels wrapped with bf Goodrich at tires 275/65/15. Changed those out for front billet specialty comp 5 SFI 2 piece wheels 15x3.5 wrapped with MT SR 26x6 tires. Rears are weld alumastar 15x10 with et street radials 275/65/15. This tire swap dropped 58 lb total rotational.

The car also has full Calvert Racing front and rear suspension. Cal tracs with 9 way adj rears and 90/10 fronts. With sway bars removed.

I still have yet to receive my lingenfelter brackets and need to still order some front and rear glass bumpers. ReSt of the car will remain steel.

So 3095 with about half tank of fuel. 75 dodge dart sport

3295 with me in the car (190lb)

That there is some very decent low numbers on the fat.
Just make sure the surf board on the top rack is made out of foam to keep it light. LOL.
Hang 10's are cool and rarely seen. I've never seen one in drag mode.
IIRC, you can add on some light body components from a 75' Dart Lite?

I think after swapping to glass front and rear bumpers anything the dart lite has I've surpassed it. Really hope these 75 dart bumpers are as heavy as I've read in a couple forums. I've heard anything from 150-300 lbs for front and rear with brackets, rebar, hardware and the 5 mph stuff. Hoping it's on the higher end!

If anyone knows a verified weight of 73+ with 5mph stuff please post.

I also just added 3 inch magnaflow straight thru mufflers unsure exact size the shop put on but they are 4 or 6 inch round,not the oval type that came off, and a turn down right after. Before I had the TTI 2.5 inch mufflers and up over the axle and out the rear with square tips. I'll weight the portion of exhaust that I get back in the next few weeks.

I weighed the ones off my '76 Duster. They were a touch over 75# each with the crash cylinders and brackets.