Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: cudaman1969]
#2345842
07/30/17 07:26 PM
07/30/17 07:26 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
|
OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
|
If you don't mind me asking, how much do those digital scales cost, looking to invest in a set like it. On the roll bar, I found out mine are too small, now ill have to do the full cage( 2 down bars and a halo) anyway they say it'll be better for resale. I think I paid around $500 for them but I might not remember correctly since they now cost around $1000. But then again, I think I bought these scales more than 10 years ago so perhaps the price has doubled over time.
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: mopar dave]
#2345843
07/30/17 07:27 PM
07/30/17 07:27 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
|
OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
|
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel? Yes, very common with BB A body oil pans. You need one of the pans that has the relief area for the idler arm or you modify the pan like this.
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2346005
07/31/17 12:09 AM
07/31/17 12:09 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,918 Akron, Ohio
ProSport
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,918
Akron, Ohio
|
Andy, just curious if you had any issues with your cross link bar hitting outer edges of your oil pan when turning the wheel? Yes, very common with BB A body oil pans. You need one of the pans that has the relief area for the idler arm or you modify the pan like this. I need that pan also, my drag link just hits on the passenger side when turning right. I used a big socket and a big hammer, I was afraid I was gonna split the pan open as I had to really hit it a lot.
1970 Challenger, all aluminum 528 Hemi, HDK suspension, Tremec 5 speed manual
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2346387
07/31/17 09:50 PM
07/31/17 09:50 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,713
Portage,michigan
|
Hahaha...... cant help it. Gotta laugh at you guys putting big blocks in your A bodies, when a 4 inch plus arm small block will likely run just as good and be a 1/10 the hassle, especially when building a high 9 sec or slower car most likely.
Rant over .... lol😀😀😀
Last edited by B3422W5; 07/31/17 09:51 PM.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.60 at 103.90 1/8
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2368838
09/11/17 02:45 PM
09/11/17 02:45 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
|
I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,195
Bend,OR USA
|
Andy, is this going to be a street car only or street and strip?
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: Mopar_Rich]
#2368884
09/11/17 04:12 PM
09/11/17 04:12 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
|
OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
|
But you are going to use your cam-sync and crank trigger instead of the distributor, right? And I would suggest using two O2s. Yes, I'll use the crank trigger and cam sync setup on this engine rather than distributor. I probably will add a second O2 sensor since the Dominator allows me to. Just have to buy the extra harness and a second sensor.
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2368885
09/11/17 04:15 PM
09/11/17 04:15 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
|
OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
|
Andy, is this going to be a street car only or street and strip? I think it is going to end being a hard core street/strip car. No heater, no defrost, no AC, manual steering, manual brakes. Not sure about carpeting. No back seat, no passenger seat, it does have a headliner in it. No wipers but it should have working lights. No horn. So not really 100% street legal but might be able to cruise it without hassle as long as I'm not making a scene. Nothing says the next owner can't add some creature comforts back to it but right now the car is gutted and it isn't a high priority for me to add stuff like that.
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2371070
09/15/17 01:33 AM
09/15/17 01:33 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
|
OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,041
Oregon
|
|
|
|
Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2371130
09/15/17 10:35 AM
09/15/17 10:35 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246 Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
rumblefish72
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 246
Cranberry Twp PA (North of Pit...
|
Nice article ... and there's another good use for the gantry crane!! Have you ever thought about suspending a whole car from the crane so you could move it to wherever you need it in the shop? Who needs GoJaks when you have a crane like that! I thought Wilson Manifolds was in Cali but they're in Fort Lauderdale ... Bummer. On 9/12 they posted on FB: We're Open! After a long and stormy weekend, we made it through Irma and are back on track! Thank you to all who reached out to us during and after the hurricane. We are grateful to have not sustained any damage and to have power today. We wish all of Florida a speedy recovery during this time. #FloridaStrong Please bear with us as we are experiencing technical difficulties with our phone lines currently. *Call / Email / reach us HERE on FB for any inquiries or orders!* (954)-771-6216 Wilsonmanifolds.com
1972 Pro-Street 'Cuda, 500" Eagle stoker B Block, Eddy RPM heads, Victor Manifold, 850 Mighty Demon, Hemi 4 Speed, Dana 60 w/4.88 gears - Built by Hansen Racing Middlesex - NJ
|
|
|
|
|