BLUF: Need to decide what to do about rust in 1 cylinder bore of a newly machined engine and what type of head fasteners to use.

Background: I'm assembling a 1988 cop 318HD; my first engine build. It's .030 over & zero deck w/ KB 167 pistons and Eagle SIR rods, Iron INDY LA 360X heads (magnum clone)9.8-10:1 compression.

Problem: I got it back from the machine shop about a year ago and haven't had a chance to assemble it until now - stored it with a coat of break-in motor oil on all machined surfaces and sealed in a plastic bag w/ desiccant packs inside. I discovered to my horror today that #4 cylinder had rusted (catches the fingernail/feels rough after rubbing down w/ oil). Can this be honed out OK?

Also, while @ the machine shop, the cracks common to these blocks were found on the pass. side between cyl. head mounting bolt holes and cooling passages, which were weld-repaired. Driver's side holes are fine. I'm thinking about using cylinder head studs on the pass. side and regular bolts on the driver's side (no cracks there) so I will be able to remove the heads without extracting the engine if needed. This is going in an M body so space is tight in the engine compartment.

Any advice is appreciated!

-Chris
#4 cyl.

Weld repair

on the cyl I would use a BRM dingle berry hone on it (on all of em actually) for the ring type you are using. single moly would be my choice & takes a BRM 320 grit flex hone.

That can be done with the pistons in place or do they need to be removed??

Tape of try top of the piston as tight as you can.

Use some scotch brite or very fine steel wool and take the rust off. Clean the cylinder until clean.

Out the heads on and go.

You could berry hone it but you have to drop the piston and it makes a big mess.

Your engine has never been run, "broken in". I suggest putting it together and running it. You are worrying way too much over what appears to be very light oxidation. That will disappear almost instantly once the engine starts making power.

Regarding the bolts vs. studs debate, I personally would use the head bolts that came with the engine. Or use some sort of threaded insert to increase the diameter of the threads actually bearing against the block. Probably cost a lot less than studs and provide an equal or better solution.

R.

For the head bolts, the factory tech manual specs 105ft# for torque - is it OK to go a bit lower, say 85 or 95# due to the damaged holes?

hi ,

try this one

use a rag with mineral spirits ,

most of what i see in the pic will wipe out !

Make sure the piston is at bottom dead center. Squirt some lubriplate at the top of the piston where it meets the bore. Alll the way around. Then scotch brite the bore using just a tad of trans fluid. Clean it till the rust is all gone. Dry the bore with a clean towel.
Then bar the motor over to TDC then back to BDC. Any crap left behind will now be at the top of the bore stuck in the lubriplate. Wipe it clean. Repeat if necessary. Done.

You could see way more rust than thar in an eine parked over the winter. Clean it off. No big deal.
Doug