When you move the cam, obviously the dot on the top gear isn't going to be straight down anymore..... You "moved" it.

Lifter on the left is an 821(standard series), lifter on the right should be a 2921(performance series).

The lifter on the right side of your picture looks like a hydraulic lifter to me, definitely not a solid.
You could have the old lifters fixed if you wanted to
I've had Delta Camshafts in Tacoma WA(253-572-2474) refinish several sets of old lifters that you can't buy now

You call it surface rust, I call it oil retaining texture!

R.

both boxes had the same part number... 821-16
The lifter on the left came with the cam when I got it from Mancini racing at the Nats along time ago, the one on the right I just got in from Jegs

Hers a pic from Jegs.... I agree, the top looks like a hydraulic, but no provisions for oiling

I don't think I would use a 273-360 LA motor lifter in a BB
Federal Mogul did make and sell some hydraulic lifters that where suppose to fit some of the late 1960s SB and BB from 1967 to 1970
I would think that those old solid lifter, if their more than ten years old., are probably better quality than the newer ones sold today
Call Delta and ask them about refinishing the bottoms of those old solid lifters
I had then refinish several sets of early Chrysler Fire Power 331/392 C.I. Hemi solid lifters that came with the 1/4 cup in them so I could reuse them in those older early Hemi motors, they came out great

The lifter on the right is a solid. It looks like the solid EDM lifters I use. Mine have the snap ring in them like that but are solid and mine have the hole in the side of the lifter for the EDM oiling on the cam lobe and the hole in the top center if you want to use pushrod oiling which I did not as I use the stock bigblock oiling to my rocker shafts. My pusrods are solid and block the top hole. Ron

This is why you degree the cam. If you just line up the dots, you would never have known how far it was off.

I mentioned the lifter bore question because the first time I tried to degree my cam (around 1980) I was trying to intake centerline the first lifter (exhaust), and could not figure out why the numbers kept coming out all messed up?

I have had good results with the 440 source timing sets and Comp Cams where the timing was really close dot-to-dot.
Worst I had seen was a Olds 455 with Howards cam and unknown brand timing set on a friends boat engine. I think it was 15 degrees off, and I don't recall the number of gear teeth, but I think being a tooth off was like 20 degrees or so? I think we had to install the cam a tooth off advanced and the retard crank slot to get the cam close?

Okay, let me rephrase it........

None of the cam companies manufacture flat tappets. They buy them.

The lifter on the left is made by Stanadyne, and is what Comp sold under part number 821-16 for years. They are a one piece "solid" lifter...... And they're heavy.

The lifter on the right is made by Hy-Lift Johnson, and used to be what you got when you bought 2921-16. They are a multi-piece design and are lighter than the Stanadyne part.

Teachin an old dog new tricks.... I really appreciate everybody's help..... That's what makes these boards so awesome !

I painted the block today with Por15 engine paint...It looks good, I just hope it holds up. It looks glossier then the spray bomb stuff I've always used... Liquid Purity The purist may not like it... but I do for my application. It's Hemi Orange

I never thought I would brush paint an engine

Any idea on who made the Federal Mogul hydraulic lifters ten + yrs. ago for both SB and BB Mopars ?