Two stud main cap small block, Whos pushing them over 7000 rpm?

We did that in the bad old days because we could, why do that now if the motor is not still pulling hard at 7000 RPM?
Shift it when it quits pulling hard, DO NOT wait for it to nose over

My junk has made peak power @6900 rpm, so I imagine I will be. It's going back on the dyno for more testing, I wasn't happy with the manifold, and new headers.
The engine is a cast crank 360, so I'm not going to be buzzing it too far past 7K if I don't need to. A factory block will most likely split a bore before it breaks a cap.

I used to shift my 340 at 8K, the 360 at 7.2K, the 408 hasn't been to 7K but it's close.

Turn mine to 7800 rpm on the bottle, main stud girdle, half fill, stock magnum block, zero issues.

I ran a stock bottom end 340 to 76-7800 every pass for years. Stock crank 360 with good rods to 7200. I wouldn't do it for hundreds of runs. Have to maintain them.

I shift my 414/340 block at 6800, ran it through at 7200 plenty of times.

Used to turn my old 340 W2 motor/4 speed car 7600-7800 Routinely back in the early 80's, Heavy TRW Pop ups and all