Big Block race only bearing suggestions
#2315536
06/03/17 12:26 PM
06/03/17 12:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 289 St.Pete,Florida
lancer493
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 289
St.Pete,Florida
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Finally got my hands on an unused, never bored megablock.Had it crack checked ,bored to 4.350",line honed & studded.Looking for bearing experiences,as Iam in the middle of pre-assembly for clearancing and deck height check. Parts include,Cam Motion .690" 280*/283* @.050 roller,Victor monster-maxwedge heads and intake w/dominator,Source 4.150 crank,BME aluminum rods w/std big end,Milodon dual line system w,dragster style pan.Goal is to Heads-up index race. Has 13.5-1 diamond pistons and will get 200 hp nitrous if necessary. All opinions and experiences wellcome.THANKS ALL, Bill
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: lancer493]
#2315659
06/03/17 05:50 PM
06/03/17 05:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157
Bend,OR USA
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On the mains I would, and do, use the Federal Mogul truck narrow full groove #4500M, Clevite narrow full groove MS-1277HG or the newer part # MS-2324P on the rod bearings with the aluminum rods I would probably use the Clevite 527HD or what ever rod bearing part numbers BME recommends IHTHs
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: sc4400]
#2315806
06/04/17 02:45 AM
06/04/17 02:45 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157
Bend,OR USA
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Why wouldn't you listen to the motor when it was saying it needed oil pressure all the time? The lack of oil, even in Nano seconds, will kill any bearings loaded hard enough Have you looked at the width and depth of the stock Hemi full groove main bearings versus the Clevite 877P main bearings or the Federal Mogul main bearings I listed? If not maybe you should As far as monster motors most of the top alcohol motors get towed every where they go until they start them up behind the burn out box, they also shift them at or above 11,000 RPM don't they The majority of Top Dragster motors I see are aluminum BB Chevy motors, aren't they Both of those worlds are places I don't want to go to Way to much maintenance with not enough fun to justify the effort needed to do that
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: Porter67]
#2315909
06/04/17 12:56 PM
06/04/17 12:56 PM
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crabman173
Unregistered
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crabman173
Unregistered
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In a very interesting note--King used to supply many part numbers in a 3/4 groove--long thought to be the best of both worlds--so when I ordered some to replace a set in a customers engine I was told they no longer produced them--I called Kings tech and they said flat out--the half grooves have proven to be the best answer and that was the way they were going with lots of applications I personally have never had any bearing issues with a Mopar- full groove, half, narrow, wide--whatever -guess I have never been hard enough on one LOL
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: sc4400]
#2315960
06/04/17 02:42 PM
06/04/17 02:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,994 Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,994
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
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The King hp are great, and they are 1/2 groove. For 30 years I ran full groove, even made my own jig for full grooving oversize bearings. Always seemed to be getting a rod bearing within 50-75 runs. Last build 5 years ago my machinist guy who builds T/D and T/S monster motors suggested getting away from full groove. I thought what I'm doing isn't holding up, lets try it. Now this was a 4.75 stroke cut .030/.020 with 2.200 rod journals. The motor lived without incident until it dropped a valve after 200 plus runs. The bearings were still excellent. No more full grooves for me. Sometimes you have to get out of the box. I run 10-40 royal purple with the Milodon swinger, and sometimes the pressure would go to zero under hard braking. The bearings showed NO signs of distress. I put a stop in the pan to keep the PU from going all the way forward. I spoke to the guy that designed them years ago, and he sez they suck. I think he's right, but I'm still running it. RIP I also had issues with oil pressure, once running through the traps with only 45 psi at 7500 rpm in a 4.15 stroke full size bearing bottom end. I run King, FM, bearings 1\2 Grove and have run 3\4 Grove. I was surprised to see so little damage, and had two minor issues on a couple of rod bearings, the mains looked great. If enough oil is going through the journal for cooling, I believe the extra surface area of a 1\2 or3\4 Grove is a help in providing life in case of momentary oil pressure loss. Before I came up with a good oil pan and accusump, I really had to watch how hard I hit the brakes, and more than a few times I am certain I ran a lot of air through the oiling system! Never any full fledged bearing failures, just a very slight amount of damage, not enough to make them fail.
8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: Porter67]
#2316139
06/04/17 07:28 PM
06/04/17 07:28 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,157
Bend,OR USA
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In the end I think most use what works best for them in there application, I think Cab is old school smart and if hes using full groove mains and they work for his application thats great because really alot of use use the same basic parts its only the application and build techniques that differ.
Being a engine builder and a long time drag racer the reason I advocate and use full groove main bearings on all of my HP engine builds for B,RB and all hemi motors is that I like the rods to have oil pressure during 360 degrees of crankshaft rotation, not just 180 degree that the single upper groove main bearings provide. Think about the hole in the crankshaft from the main bearings to the rod journals and when the rods are getting oil pressure and where is the most load on the bearings and rods, it is not in the bottom half of the stroke To many people, races and others, believe what they hear from "experts or what they read from some expert" in print, not what they have actual real world experiences from My first rod bearing failure(when I was 19 yrs old) was due to me running my go to work daily driver to low on oil many years ago I got lucky and had it fixed before it spun, it rolled a piece of the center of one rod bearing up and staring knocking and didn't spin The mechanic showed me that bearing and explained what he thought had happened, that was a true blessing that helped me start to understand why things got hurt and failed. Racing motor engine bearings normally fail do to a lack of adequate oil supply or to much air in the oil Take a look at NASCAR and road racing engines that live for hundred of laps at or above 7500 RPM, Formula One motors revved way past 15,000 RPM is what I have heard on T.V broadcast and they live for the entire race. My Son worked for Rob Muzzy for many years in his production shop, I was privileged to be able to talk to Rob and his main racing mechanics about the RPM and the details that they had to discover to make their motors live long enough to win world championship in motor cycle racing. All parts that fail under racing conditions for one racer or one team that are living in other racing engines in the same class are failing do to ignorance or failure to learn why those parts are failing and correcting the problem Good luck to all those that push their racing parts to their limits I don't do that
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 06/04/17 07:31 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: lancer493]
#2316596
06/05/17 02:19 PM
06/05/17 02:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,504 DFW
mr_340
master
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master
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DFW
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http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/l...gs/eb-40-16.pdfGo to page 19 for main bearings. My engine guy has moved to the half groove style and prefers the 140° groove where available. "In an effort to develop the best possible main bearing designs for performance engines, we’ve investigated the effects of main bearing grooving on bearing performance. The graphs illustrate that a simple 180 degree groove in the upper main shell is still the best overall design. While a slightly shorter groove of 140 degrees provides a marginal gain, most of the benefit is to the upper shell, which doesn’t need improvement. On the other hand, extending the groove into the lower half, even as little as 20 degrees at each parting line (220 degrees in total), takes away from upper bearing performance without providing any benefit to the lower half. It’s also interesting to note that as groove length increases so do horsepower loss and peak oil film pressure which is transmitted directly to the bearing."
Floyd Lippencott IV
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Re: Big Block race only bearing suggestions
[Re: lancer493]
#2316606
06/05/17 02:37 PM
06/05/17 02:37 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 200 AB
Efidart
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enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 200
AB
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142M have worked great for street and strip for years, always come out looking good and handles the HP just fine.
TT Predator headed 572 7 Second Street Car. Fastest Mopar Drag Week 2015 Fastest Mopar & Dodge Drag Week 2017 Pro Street Power Adder Champion Drag Week 2017
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