Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: SRT8Challenger]
#231371
02/21/09 03:13 PM
02/21/09 03:13 PM
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Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT
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Before you decide it's the thrust block fighting you try loosening the nuts holding the other axle in & see if the axle currently giving you problems goes in...If it does than yeah you have to deal with the thrust block...But if it doesn't the most likely you have a slight misalignment of the splines in the side gear & the cone...My picture below is of a clutch but cones have a similar spline design... If thats the problem tighten the nuts on the first axle then loosen the nuts on the problem axle slightly & mount a wheel with a couple lugs, you don't need the brake drum... Now grab the wheel & try twisting/rocking the wheel while pushing inward...You should feel the axle move inward if/when the splines align...
FWIW my understanding is with the clutch style you need to remove the thrust pins but the cone style the block doesn't need to be removed...
Last edited by 1_WILD_RT; 02/21/09 03:17 PM.
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#231372
02/21/09 03:49 PM
02/21/09 03:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 288 Delmont, Pa.
SRT8Challenger
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If I loosen the other side she goes right in. Seems I can seat either side but not both! The pin must float? Can the pin be removed with a strong magnet on the eand of a stick or axle, or does something hold the darn thing in? Thanks!! I was soo hoping you were right!!
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: SRT8Challenger]
#231373
02/21/09 03:54 PM
02/21/09 03:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,982 Ansonia, CT
CJK440
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Ansonia, CT
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It floats. The spacer on the clutch suregrips is held by a pin thats peened over on one end. You are going to need to pull the chuck and drive a punch to drive out the pin and the two halves of the spacer block will come out of their respective sides.
2017 Contusion Blue Challenger T/A 392 M6 "BLKNBLU"
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: SRT8Challenger]
#231375
02/21/09 04:05 PM
02/21/09 04:05 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825 Sk. Canada
RemCharger
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Sk. Canada
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The clutch style has removeable thrust buttons.. You have the cone style with the trust block. I am not sure if you can just remove it and run without it... Hate to say it but the cone style aren't known for high hp longevity. But if you are gonna make this setup work I'm thinking you're best off machining the axles down to the correct length. I'm in the same process right now , and I see theres another thread about it, But hes in my boat with the thrust BUTTON deal.. What I'd like to know is if you want the axles to be very close, or very far from the thrust area...
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: RemCharger]
#231376
02/21/09 04:10 PM
02/21/09 04:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT
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Quote:
What I'd like to know is if you want the axles to be very close, or very far from the thrust area...
You want the axles as long as possible so they have full contact with the splines...The picture I posted above shows there are two sets of splines so while you know your gonna have full contact with the first (outer)set the second (inner) set sometimes strip or twist on the axle...
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: RemCharger]
#231377
02/21/09 04:15 PM
02/21/09 04:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 288 Delmont, Pa.
SRT8Challenger
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Arrrr.... Thanks guys, not what I wanted to hear! I measured mine and I need .210" total. I would go to .250" to give the green bearing clearance, I would not want to side load the green type bearings. I'm sure if I cut the axles things would work, but if I ever had an axle problem, Moser would blame me?? Good luck with your set up too, let me know how and what worked for you! Ed
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: SRT8Challenger]
#231378
02/21/09 04:25 PM
02/21/09 04:25 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825 Sk. Canada
RemCharger
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Sk. Canada
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Hey thanks. Now call me a genius or whatever, but I was reading over your post again and it hit me..... Why can't you just put a 1/4 inch spacer between the flange and the axle mounting plate? To be sure, you could measure the backing plate , but that is likely what it is. Edit*--Even better yet, just cut the center out of your old backing plates!!!
Last edited by RemCharger; 02/21/09 04:28 PM.
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: RemCharger]
#231379
02/21/09 04:34 PM
02/21/09 04:34 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 288 Delmont, Pa.
SRT8Challenger
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I thought about that... The backing plates were .125" thick plus add for the gaskets. I could use the old retaining plates (.125") as a spacer. This would make the wheels space out further though. The rotor hat will also move the wheel out an additional .25" per side and I don't want to rub the inner fender lip?? Nothing is easy!! Guess going faster and stopping faster is never that easy Ed
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: RemCharger]
#231383
02/21/09 06:17 PM
02/21/09 06:17 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,988 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
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Rio Linda, CA
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The thrust block serves no purpose other than a spacer, remove it and it won't be missed.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: 489 Thrust Block Removal
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#231385
02/21/09 06:33 PM
02/21/09 06:33 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,825 Sk. Canada
RemCharger
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Quote:
The thrust block serves no purpose other than a spacer, remove it and it won't be missed.
There you go!
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