I've pulled a whole set of lifters out without pulling the intake, a good magnet makes it possible, though not real easy. If you drop one, you can still retrieve it.

Joe

What Joe said & there is a retrieval tool for this which likely has hooks that will catch the snap ring for a secure grip. if no varnish on the sides which I dont think is the case here it oughta be trouble free. If new lifters are going back in the hard part is gonna be getting some breakin lube on the bottoms & not close to the edges where it could get on the sides & hinder rotation & hit the hole dead on with the new ones.

Try two turns and that will stop that stuff.

1/4 to 1/2 turn is for ball stud type rockers, such as sb cheapys and dorfs, and those done correctly, are a full turn. Hyd lifters are designed to run in the center of travel. Short travel race hyd. lifters as well. Those have way less plunger travel, about 1/2 of a normal lifter, therefore would not take two turns, only one or maybe less, and on ball stud rockers a half turn.

I just finished a bone stock v10 with non adjustable hyd. roller lifters. When I installed the rockers, while at TDC for each cyl., which is OK for hyd. cams, the plunger was down right at .100" from the retaining clip. Stock, non adjustable rockers, pushrods, and new stock lifters.

When the plunger is in the center of travel the lifter fills properly and holds the oil better. Any of the lifters with open valve, while engine not running, will eventually push the oil out, especially HP engines with stouter valve springs. My 2016 scat pack challenger lifters tap for a couple seconds, and then shut up right away after car sits for a few weeks. This is my 6th 09 and newer challenger and they have all done this.

Please read this. http://www.diamondbackengines.com/index.php/wpm/11-setvalve

This is for setting valve lash on solid lifter motors, both flat tappet and solid roller lifters.
It does not address or show how to adjust hydraulic lifter preload

Me thinks you have never tested hydraulic lifter preload methods at the track or on a engine dyno, your method is NOT the best way for Hi Performance motors that the owner wants to rev above 5000 RPM regularly
Maybe you need to quit buying these new cars that have lifter problems
I never had any lifter problems ticking or collapsing before starting to buy the old DC Connection Mopar Purple Shaft cam kits the better brand lifters don't act up from day one
BTW, I am a Mopar guy, have been from 1964 on I have owned and driven both GM and Ford but not as many and kept, driven ,hop up and raced as Mopars
I have found at the track and on a engine dyno with a non stock cam and adjustable rocker arms or adjustable pushrods ( for use on the early Chrysler Firepower hemi motors ) that 1/4 to 1/2 turn preload (depending on iron or aluminum heads) works the best for power, RPM and manifold vacuum

What we've been telling the OP all along. Don't know where these guys come up with the "half down" preload crap. There are two main reasons for hydraulic lifters. One is to address a noise issue which car owners would have a tendency to continually want a dealer to fix. The second is to compensate for manufacturing tolerance in the valvetrain. With that in mind, there only needs to be enough preload to ensure there's no clatter - from 0 to about .025.

It would sure be interesting to see what the preloads were in a motor that came off the factory floor.

That would be alot.(.100")or more Plunger depth on quite a few chevs AND mopars I've seen.

"the better brand lifters"




"It would sure be interesting to see what the preloads were in a motor that came off the factory floor."


There are only two manufacturers of lifters, one just reopened so for a while there was only one. So I would like to know who these better brand lifters are! Comp , Crane, Lunati, all get there lifters from one of the two.

Engines from the factory come with lifters preloaded to near 1/2 travel. I set mine in center and shift at 6500+ all the time.

If you want yours set at the top you might as well just get solids. The 1/4 turn was a BS trick of the month from chevy craft or hot rod your chevy magazines years ago.

I use to set mine to the trick of the month way and got tired of clattering lifters until the engine got fully warmed up, so I started putting them in the center and problems went away and the engines run just as good or maybe better.

Cab, It also has hydraulic lifter adjustment, not just solid.

Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment:

Hydraulics require preload not lash so the method is slightly different. Adjusting hydraulic lifters can be done basically the same and in many cases both rockers can be adjusted at the same time. Just make sure to stop about 20 degrees or so after the intake for that cylinder closes so as not to end up with the exhaust starting to open.

Once the rocker(s) in question are ready to adjust, back them off until they are loose enough to rattle. Take the pushrod you are adjusting between your thumb and forefinger and spin lightly while slowly tightening the adjuster. (Remember, don’t hold it too tight or apply up or down pressure)

As SOON as you feel a slight drag, you are at zero lash – you must hold the pushrod lightly to feel this. Once you have zero lash, you must turn the adjuster enough to preload the lifter properly. The old “turn it ½ turn” method may or may not be correct.

Most performance lifters have a specified preload which you can get from the manufacturer if you don’t know. Many are less than ½ turn. Your adjusters are generally fine thread fasteners, and move a certain part of an inch per revolution. Below is a list of standard sizes and how far they move per turn- Find the correct figure for your adjuster size and divide it by your specified preload.

Example:

Your lifter preload is spec’d at .008 -.012 and you have 3/8” adjusters. Divide .0419 by.008=5.24. Divide .0419 by.012= 3.49 Put a 1 over that or 1/5.24 - 1/3.49 or about 1/5th to 1/3rd turn is your specified preload.

Adjuster Size Travel /Turn

5/16 -24 .0419

3/8 -24 .0419

7/16 -20 .0500

It is ok to use the specified figure for cold fire up, but expect to readjust hot to get it perfect. Also keep in mind that new equipment will wear in and you will probably need to readjust a couple times in the first few hours of use before they “take a set”.

Be Careful, you don’t want them too loose, because you run the risk of pounding the retainer ring out of the lifter body or at the least having noisy lifters. Too tight and your valves may not fully close and will surely float at an early rpm. Valve Float can cause a car to lay over or even start to backfire at a relatively low rpm. It may run great up to 4000 rpm, then its like someone puts on the breaks and it falls on its nose.

I know those tools
Don,t seem to be very useful here..

I figured that. It seems people were assuming stock iron heads !

Hello all
Sorry for the delay
I finally removed the pushrods and installed the shafts again for prelubing the engine.
I have seen good oil flow coming from the rocker,s botton oil holes.No oil flow from the upper holes.



What i have to do now?
Turn the engine 8 turns while i make the oil pump to work using the drill?
Thanks

Two person job, one on the drill to spin the pump and another cranking the engine over by hand.

to preoil: for a BB, turn crank to TDC #6 compression & preoil one bank then back up the dampener 3/4 of a turn (#8 TDC) & preoil the other bank (cut a strip of paper 17.082" or go by the rotor). for a SB, turn crank 90 deg (1/4 turn) BTDC #1 compression (might be partial slits on dampener) or a strip of paper 5.694" & preoil pass bank then turn dampener to 20 ATDC #6 compression (use the timing cover marks to measure the extra 5 degrees) & preoil the drivers bank. EDIT Dave Hughes wants me to use .100" preload on my circle track hyd cam. I was surprised that he wants that much but he has forgotten more info than I know.

I'm curious why oil isn't shooting out the top holes though.

Probably because the rocker arm is not rotated so the oil hole on the shaft is aligned with the passage in the rocker arm when the cam passage is align in the block to provide oil pressure
I groove all my roller cams # 4 cam journal so they will oil the rocker shafts full time, they will shoot oil out the rocker arms that way I am using around a .040 oil restictor in that oil passage now, the restrictor size depends on the type of rocker arm, extruded or bushed get a .080 restrictors, true roller rocker get the smaller sizes

He said he has oil coming out around the rockers but not out the top holes. Aren't most rockers grooved internally so oil can flow to those squirt holes? I know my old Isky's were. There are no holes to align with - the holes in the shafts point down.

this may not apply here but I brazed the top holes shut as they shoot oil up to no avail & I added correctly clocked holes in the shaft/rocker & capped the big outer hole on the pushrod side of the rocker where they drilled in to drill the inner hole to lube the threads to dribble down to the cup. Shaft/rocker clocked/drilled when on base circle so there will be some dwell time for the oil to squirt out. OE side holes in shaft (that are clocked wrong) soldered shut/bottom ones left open. SB iron adjustables

Those shoot oil to the top of the valve cover to rain down and cool the valve springs



Again, this shoots oil at the valve cover to splash back and lube the cups.



Doesn't lube the threads or dribble down. Once you tighten the nut, nothing's going down those threads!

Don't like the looks of those shafts !!!