No intent (I checked).

I'm running a MSD TFI-coil with a 4-pin HEI module on my engine teststand.
Used it with a Mopar distributor without issues.

I played with this idea a bit and am still not satisfied with the appearance of it.

It'll never sell if it is not pretty looking.
It is definitely not pretty when mounted in the way I wanted to do it.
And I can't afford to do a bunch of them if they aren't somewhat commercially viable.

Plan C or D to be attempted later, maybe more of a generic thing, but can't guarantee anything at this point.

Is the coil you were using the same as the Holley Hyperspark?

https://www.holley.com/products/fue...er_efi/hyperspark_ignition/parts/556-152

It doesn't have the extruded aluminum sides.
https://goo.gl/images/o9coKV

Probably the same coil but Holley added an extruded bracket. The Holley coil looks nicer than the Ford version.

Yeah, it's a ubiquitous coil design
.
It had better have a better appearance, considering the 500% cost difference!

For some all that matters is the shiny.

it's been said : "chrome don't getcha' home" ........

The Holley coil is only $38 so that doesn't seem expensive to me. The MSD coil that I was using on my race engine was more than $200.

I have a $200+ msd coil on the bench, I haven't used it yet since it's the size of a brick...I am thinking an A/B test with a
$9 OEM replacement TFI Coil, both driven by an msd box could be interesting. I will have nowhere to mount
the MSD coil until I get my AR engineering motor plate bolted in so it will have to wait.

It would be interesting to me, anyway.
Many wouldn't care...but I think it's noteworthy MSD approves the TFI coil for 6 and 7 series.

I mean, there's almost always somebody, or some-thing available to do a job cheaper. Cheaper isn't super-important to me, anymore.
Those discussions usually turn into "do you want this cheaper, or do you need it to be better?"

I do know it makes a nice low buck ignition with the hei module, but that the coil is kind of awkward.

I'm really not too sure where this is heading, but I'll post up the shots of the cardboard template that I texted you awhile back,
and will see if anyone thinks this is a bad idea to pursue.

I know this is an old thread but i have a question on the coil..I have also done this GM module upgrade and currently using the matching square GM coil, which doesnt look right on a mopar intake..lol.. Does anyone know of a round coil that looks like the old original mopar coils, but can be used with the GM HEI module and not need the ballsat and all? in other words, a coil that acts like the GM HEI coil but looks like the old mopar style coils?

I've ran various setups and recall to have used a regular canister coil with a 4-pin HEI module for awhile.
No ballast and 12v powered.
I think I went with a modern coil when I noticed they don't seem to get warm like the canister coils do.

I'm running a MegaSquirt ECU with 7-pin HEI module with a MSD e-core coil now.
Dwell is controlled digitally through a rpm/load-table between 2.5 and 3.2 milliseconds.

I noticed that after doing this GM HEI upgrade that i was pinging a LOT under WOT load. Come to find out, this GM module is adding advance! I have 4 of these module and every dang one of them adds about 10 degrees of advance in the higher RPM's! SO, how are you guys using these without problems from that? This is the later 7 or 8 pin module out of an early 1990's GM truck.

I would think that the ECU was pulling (delaying) timing (common with some orange boxes) & that the HEI has no delay. Solution, restore your curve to where it was with the ECU.

i always thought the GM HEI conversion used the 4 pin [70's style] module, usually mounted under the distributor housing ?

^^^ yes that is the one I've always used. Maybe the later one alters things but iirc someone had used it.

Well, after researching the internet literally ALL day, i have figured this out and i should have already known the answer since my boat with 350 GM engine uses this same setup. These 8 pin modules have 10 degrees advance built into them! If you are using this module on a carbureted engine, you have to put the spark timing into bypass mode to set the initial timing so it WONT try to advance the timing, and that requires jumping to pins together and hooking another pin to 12 volts. To verify this, i tried it on my car and sure enough, that stopped the advancing problem! The catch is, you cant leave it plugged up into bypass mode because it is setup to where you have to start the engine, then shut it off, connect the bypass wire, then start it up again to set the timing. once you turn off the ignition, it wont start up again until you have removed the bypass jumper and started the engine without it, then you can hook it up again. You could use it on a switched 12 volts but im not going to bother, i will just get a 4 pin module and be done with it. I happen to have the 4 pin plug that is not used on the 8 pin module when using these with our old cars so i made the ESC bypass with it to verify what i read (and already knew and forgot) and sure enough! Guys running the 8 pin: i bet if you watch it with a timing light, you are getting extra 10 degrees of advance after around 3-3500 rpms. It drops back out at WOT but makes mine ping. Hope this helps!
https://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6932127

we appreciate all this hard work! I will for sure stick to the 4 terminal HEI's

Robert, curious, can you still open the plug gap to .045 with the 4 terminal module like you can with the 8 terminal module? Im assuming both module put out the same..?