Any recommendations on steps that one should take before starting their small block Mopar after six months of hibernation?

Besides checking the basics, air/fuel filters, carb, battery connections, engine oil, fuel, etc... what other steps should be performed?

I recall hearing about removing the coil wire and attempting to start the unit a couple of time helps build up oil pressure for when you reconnect the coil back and start?

People disconnect the coil wire, and crank it over until there is oil pressure, then reconnect the coil wire and start it up. Some people even take out the dist. and prime the oil galleys, then replace the dist,. and start the engine. I just crank it and start it and run it, never had a problem.

At the very least I pull the oil cap off of the valve cover and "go nuts" with my hand held oil squirter...you know, the normal carnister type, point being, get some oil to the top end which is the last thing on a SB to see actual oil.

The suggestion to crank it over a few times w/o actually firing it up is probably a good one to follow...heck, I'll try that this year, hoping actually to do this within another week or so at most!!! LOL

Pull out the plugs and hose the bores down with Marvel Mystery oil. Then crank the engine over with the plugs out to get oil pressure and lubricate the cylinders. Put the plugs back in and fill the carb through the bowl vent. Start it up. This is the way I always do it.

Prime the carb with a little bit of fresh fuel, 1 or 2 ounces and then start it right away and let it idle on the fast idle position on the carb. linkage
Do NOT grind on the motor with the coil disconnected, that is one of the bad old Chevy racers myths That insures the motor will spin on the starter with no oil pressure way to long
BB Mopar oil pumps are mounted outside the block, not immersed in oil like the Chevys are

Thank you the feedback thus far.. I updated the original post to state that the engine is a small block (340 stroker).

Stored in a reasonably dry environment, I would check the oil, charge the battery and start it. Maybe a little gas to prime it as mentioned.

Stored in a really damp place, it would not hurt to pull the VC's, lube the top end and turn it by hand to make sure everything is moving OK. I had a slant in a boat stick some valves after being stored (incorrectly) in a damp tidal boat shed once. I had to have the head re-done and replace a pushrod or two.

Check the oil and coolant, fresh fuel, charged battery and fire it up.

It's been sitting 6 months not decades. Just watch the oil pressure gauge when it fires. It should swing the needle/put the light out in a few seconds.

If it has a juice cam don't be alarmed if a few rockers rattle briefly until the oil pressure maxxes out. Some lifters might have collapsed under extended pressure.

Kevin

Nothing. I've been storing my Mopars since 1988. I'm a veteran and have left my cars in storage for literally for 4 years or longer. Crank it 'til she fires up! Mother Mopar designed your engine to be safe and sound after long bouts of not running. So 6-months is child play. I don't start, run, drive half of my fleet for more than 6-months at a time and I do nothing but get in and fire that puppy up!

I agree, only 6 months... this is pretty a yearly thing for most of my cars.

deployments last that long.
I have left my car for 6 months with just the battery disconnected. Come back reconnect and fire it right up. nothing to check.
stored outside for that whole time.

As said it wouldn't hurt to fog the cyls, you have alot of dough tied up into it. I get each cyl on BDC (going by the firing order every 1/4 turn to make it easy) then spray it. On a longer term storage when you do preoil with part time rocker shaft oiling, for the pass head, get the crank at 90 deg BTDC #1 compression (5.694"CW from TDC slit, cut/measure a strip of paper ) then 20 ATDC #6 compression & preoil the drivers side head (use the dampener as a ruler).

Just turn the key. We're talking about months here, not years

I'll stick with my recommendation. I just tried to start my '73 International 392 dump truck after sitting all winter. I thought the same thing, what's six months? Motor turned over half a turn and locked up solid. Had to pull it backwards to free it up. Out came the Marvel Mystery Oil and I did what I should have done in the first place. It's running now.

X2

I just started my coronet and desoto today after they sat since October. I cranked it for a while pumped the gas and cranked it some more until it started. I have been doing it this way my entire life with all of my carbed cars.

Not really sure why this conversation is even going on here.. Start it....

x2

I've had a few of mine sitting anywhere from 2 years and up to 7 years: Squirt of fuel, light it off. As far as I'm concerned the faster you get it lit, the better.

Fill the float bowls and start it, if you want be precautious then prime the oil pump with a drill and then start it. Light it up, don't sit and crank the darn thing.

WHY do folks think it's a good idea to crank the engine to build oil pressure or get fuel to the carb?? An engine is made to run not crank.

Why fog the cylinders? They top of the cylinders are dry when running the engine. This thing sat for 6 months stored correctly, not outside with no air cleaner for years,

You guys really get into this stuff lol. I get in the car, crank it for three bumps a few times, pump the gas twice and the car starts up (when the stars align). That's from the 361 in our dump truck to the solid roller cammed big block in my '66 Charger. It never hurts to check the oil or fill the carb bowls if you are worried about it.