Re: Exhaust heat wrap for muffler and tail pipe
[Re: topside]
#2283738
04/07/17 01:48 AM
04/07/17 01:48 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
|
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
|
I would expect a wrap to help with high-frequency sound - like "ringing" - but not the lower-frequency "booming" or droning; This, but then in the OP's case, there is likely little HF emitting thru the muffler case or tubing in the first place. And the wrap "trapping water" is a non issue, unless one drives thru standing water when cold, and then immediately parks the car. The wrap basically overheats steel tubing, causes it to oxidize at the newly elevated temps, and also cyclically heat fatigues the metal, until it crumbles.
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
|
|
|
Re: Exhaust heat wrap for muffler and tail pipe
[Re: jcc]
#2283855
04/07/17 11:26 AM
04/07/17 11:26 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,421 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
|
"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,421
north of coder
|
I would expect a wrap to help with high-frequency sound - like "ringing" - but not the lower-frequency "booming" or droning; This, but then in the OP's case, there is likely little HF emitting thru the muffler case or tubing in the first place. And the wrap "trapping water" is a non issue, unless one drives thru standing water when cold, and then immediately parks the car. The wrap basically overheats steel tubing, causes it to oxidize at the newly elevated temps, and also cyclically heat fatigues the metal, until it crumbles. and something to remember about stainless is the grade quality. the common "4series" stainless will take less abuse than the "3series". what grade stainless did you use in your installation ?
|
|
|
Re: Exhaust heat wrap for muffler and tail pipe
[Re: Ron TN]
#2313322
05/30/17 12:18 AM
05/30/17 12:18 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,623 Millinocket, Maine
JonC
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,623
Millinocket, Maine
|
This is really interesting. Wondering if sound outside is affected and if the diameter of pipe has an effect. Also wonder if placement is critical.
11B40
|
|
|
Re: Exhaust heat wrap for muffler and tail pipe
[Re: Ron TN]
#2313421
05/30/17 09:07 AM
05/30/17 09:07 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162 USA
360view
Moparts resident spammer
|
Moparts resident spammer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,162
USA
|
The "J Pipe" talked about in the above posts is more correctly called a "Resonant Acoustic Stub" and has been discussed here on Moparts several times in the past. It does not have to be shaped like a J. It does have to be a specific length to cancel a specific tone. If the temperature of the exhaust gas changes, so does the frequency of the sound tone cancelled. This same scientific principle is used to quickly measure the static compression ratio of NASCAR engine cylinders during inspections. A "slide whistle" works this way too. https://www.amazon.com/American-Slide-Wh...s=slide+whistle
|
|
|
Re: Exhaust heat wrap for muffler and tail pipe
[Re: Ron TN]
#2313581
05/30/17 02:50 PM
05/30/17 02:50 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,398 Highland, MI.
Sunroofcuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,398
Highland, MI.
|
IMO, for a GAS 5.7L Hemi engine, 3.5" diameter exhaust is too big & you will lose velocity through the system - bottom-end & midrange will suffer. Single 3" would have been a better diameter. As far as the ol J-hook sound trap, a good resonator would have solved the resonance issue.
No Man With A Good Car Needs To Be Justified
|
|
|
Re: Exhaust heat wrap for muffler and tail pipe
[Re: Sunroofcuda]
#2315447
06/03/17 02:10 AM
06/03/17 02:10 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26 TN, USA
Ron TN
OP
member
|
OP
member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26
TN, USA
|
I do not have pics. Also, the OEM resonator was large, heavy and took up too much real estate for me to have the custom exhaust I was looking for. As far a engine size, I did state that it is a 6.4 and the 3.5" piping is OEM. If the factory put it there then I would expect it is sized right and be the most efficient for the vehicle it is on, which I believe I also stated it is a RAM 2500 HD. The exhaust system and the addition of a CAI system gave my truck about 2.5 more MPG and a noticeable seat of the pants feel in additional power. I also notice less shifting with the trans and it definitely shows its oats pulling a 5th wheel. I knew I was going to do the exhaust when I bought the truck. I priced a cat back system and the prices were upwards of $1,000 for quality systems. I had my entire system custom done for $600. Used as much of the OEM pipe as possible (no reason not to) and swapped out the muffler. The bulk of the work was done from the muffler back, all custom. The guy welds everything and does exceptional work. The J pipe is not a cheap bandaid to a built in resonance problem, it is a scientific fix the factory recognized with their addition of resonators, except, they seem to want to use the bulky overweight real estate stealing factory ones. All this being said, I am not an expert but have found out what works for me. I don't need anyone telling me about how J pipes are a cheap fix, should have kept the factory set up, if I don't like noise don't put this or that muffler on. Everyone has their own opinion and that is great but this worked for me and I thought I would share it with the MOPAR community.
|
|
|
|
|