Now I'll try and find the elusive flyweight 7LB unit. I know my boy has one on his Bee project here at Area51 and that it was one of the last ones in stock at Mancini IIRC.
If at least, I'll get the part number from his order form.
By the way, I mounted mine using titanium bolt, nuts, washers and stud just like the stock set up for even more weight savings.

Lee,
Thanks for the follow up on the starters!
It was great to see the unit and actual weight on your scale.
I have added it to my list with part numbers and actual weights.
So do you have a part number for the lighter one in your post?
Still looking for that 7 LB unit!
MJ

MJ
Yeah, I forgot to mention that the lighter one absolutely had no part number on it. I went through every corner of it, and no digits or letters. I suspect it to be a generic type or off shore product. Lots of bogus or inferior stuff out there these days.
I'll nudge my friends shoulder to get his part number because that one was in the 7 LB range. IIRC it was 7-1/2 7-3/4 Lbs or something along those numbers.

He's under there ALOT! Hope he cab see it without taking it out,,,,,

LOL.

Are you kiddin' He lives under there now since the Boss said enough is enough. LOL.
That car is going to be a knock out sensation when it debuts on the streets.
We went from totally stock, to totally stock and optioned out to the max to stripper no option lightweight and then to low option semi stripper. I wanted to strip his neck at times and leave him with no option. LOL.
Gotta love his persistence. Lot more patient than I could ever be.

Some of the starters have a short snout (factory). Also I've found some starters laying around from smaller engines that have similar, but shorter armature and case. They had a different nose but the lsrge starter nose bolted up. I was to much of a sissy to try one on my 15-1 motor with the timing locked out.
Doug

Me thinks there are different PNs for big block and small block

Nope, unless you are dealing with aftermarket, BB never came with a factory mini starter.

In fact, I put one in my BB truck. I told the guy at the parts store to get one from a 90's small block Dakota. Works fine.

I'm out in CA, went to the Spring Fling today. Saw a mini starter and it had this part # on it. I looked it up, can't find any application for it.


Mopar Performance sells P5007860AB which they claim is the 7 lb. unit. This cross references to Denso 2800144 {#56027702, 91295250) on Rock Auto's website. Use those numbers at the parts store and pay 1/4 of the price on the same unit.

The one I have on my car is a Denso, I believe 2800144 is the number on it.

Maybe ask Steve if he can figure out that part #. Might be a catalog number or something and not an actual P#?

Threaded bolt hole reminds me of the one I put in my 3.3 minivan.

that was my thought as well. i have one of those starters that have broken ears where the case bolts are, but holds together enough to really spin the motor over great. there is also a locator pin in the pic that indicates this is probably a FWD starter. and to confuse even further, there is a different version that looks like what i call the "flat case". the one where the motor armature is in a square part of the casting like a dak starter. i was always curious about how close the FWD starters were to the usable mini starters, but so far, have not taken the time to put the two side by side and measure the differences.

That starter looks like it is for a Right side mount and not Left hand side.
May be good for parts if the snouts are interchangeable...as long as it's not designed to spin the opposite direction...

One end is course thread, and the other is fine thread. Just like the factory '69 bars were. They were made out of 6061. Al should be getting his today.

I'd love to be able to have more made, but this was a top secret job done at my work.

Slip him/her a twenty and make 20 more. LOL.
Chrysler had those presses and machining burning the midnight oil as well, though they all knew to a certain extent of what was going on
Very nice pieces. Al is excited about his.
I'm quite busy on some personal matters at the moment, but I just wanted to take 5 and get on here for a NY minute to divert.
Enjoy fellas and gals,
I'll be back soon.

Today was very busy.I was able to get to SK and pick up header tube to reroute my headers.Picked up 2 cars in Farmindale,dropped one in Westbury and the other at Freddys shop on LIc.On my eay back to Nassau and got turned around and picked a 600 benz on Delancey St.
I will get to the post office tomorrow,hope my pistons came in!!!

Made it to the Post Office today,they were waiting for me as promised and VERY nicely packaged!

Freddy made a donation as well

OK, so now that I have a cool-guy roll bar in my Duster, I am looking at trying to offset some of the added weight. Roll bar story is chronicled here.

I figure a 6-point, CM roll bar with steel floor plates weighs around 60 lbs but I'm not sure and forgot to ask about it. Doh!

Anyway...trying to decide whether to put the back seat back in. I don't think I weighed them when I took it out but I figure it's around 50-60 lbs between the cushion and seat back.

Not having a back seat is something I am torn on. I don't often have passengers but it would be nice to take the kids out for ice cream or to a cruise night once in a while.

There's also the steel hood which I'm thinking should probably be replaced by a glass one. Thinking it would be a pin-on type to ditch the hinges and springs.

I'm a little torn on that too since the OE flat steel hood has been on the car from day one. Don't want to end up looking like every other Duster out there with a 6 pack scoop. I know there are other options and I could also keep the flat style. Just thinking out loud though, trying to reason these things through. A pin-on hood is a P.I.T.A. for sure.

Not certain if a 'street weight' glass hood is worth the price since you still have the OE hinges.

Last thing on the list is the OE driveshaft which I am looking to replace with aluminum. I'm not one of those guys who goes to the JY and pulls a driveshaft out of a late model truck or something so I'll likely call up one of the driveline companies and order one up.

Thinking I might end up under 3,000 if I ditch the back seat, replace the hood and the driveshaft. Last time I weighed the car it was 3,060 without me and a full tank of gas.

Since then I've replaced the front brakes with Wilwoods, replaced the fuel tank with an aluminum one but added the roll bar. Also removed a bunch of unnecessary wiring and the wiper system.

Whadya all think of the plan?

Flat hood pin on.
It's not a PITA as much as it may seem. Mine is aluminum and heavier than a glass A-team hood and I still manage to lift off and arrive back on the four pins with precision. There is simply an exercise/maneuver that makes it a breeze to lift up, swing into position and walk away. Similar moves going back on but with a touch of TLC speed to keep things from being scratched and or broken. The weight taken off the very front and high on the car is well worth it.
I agree, not bummin' on other Dusters with open air systems, but a flat hood makes for some head scratching and admiration.
Aluminum prop shaft from Dynotech or Mark Williams will be proper and right the first time around. There is still a few items on that pup that will bring your numbers back down.
Curt "Glasses" had his Duster down to high 2900 Lbs with little done.
Back seat is an option, but I'd reinstall it and look elsewhere for savings. My personal opinion of that Duster is that it should look the street car part. You could also gut it and have there for looks.
Yes, it's should be around 40-50 pounds total for the seat and back cushion.