I searched for threads but didn't find much. After frying the clutches due to kickdown non-adjustment, I'm considering switching to manual. Car is street-only, Barracuda, 528 hemi.

you will get tired of shifting.

Years ago I built a 727 with a RMVB and used it in my street toy, '68 Coronet that evolved into a race only bracket car. It seems to me that I used the instructions in a B&M kit to modify the transmission, but that was 30+ years ago, so I can't be certain.

At the same time I was seeing the rise in the fortunes of Al Young. He has been a fixture of Northwest Drag Racing for years, and he still goes out to play. His Dodge Challenger sponsored by Bardahl was donated to the Museum of History and Industry in Seattle and is frequently on display. His transmission was built by Pat Blais with one of Pat's valve bodies. We all thought that he was shifting for himself, but he was actually leaving it in drive and was winning automatically!! Pat had fine tuned the governor weights to shift at the best RPM for the power band of the motor. Al was eventually able to run in the eights that way. He and Pat came to a meeting of the Seattle Chapter of Mopars Unlimited and the truth came out in their presentation. So maybe you really don't need a manual valve body after all? Just sayin'

It would be a lot easier to fix the kickdown(throttle pressure) linkage.

Racing a 727 in drive on a car with any horsepower is a good way to blow it up.

Interested in your theory on why the trans would blow up if raced in drive.

I have a reverse manual vb in my 340 dart. Street driven since 2001 and love it.

What RPM do you shift your Hemi at?

I have ran both full auto and manual valve bodies on the street and on the strip. The full autos did a good job behind my wedges that shifted under 6,000 or so.

But on my Hemis that want to pull well over 6,000rpm, getting our Torqueflites to auto shift up there is a real challenge. And then there is the 1-2 and 2-3 split that will also have to be dealt with.

But then for a street car, a manual valve body takes some attention while driving around town to keep from beating the drive train out. You can soften the shifts up a little bit, but manual valve bodies are usually rather harsh shifting on the street.

Either one can be made to work for you.

I love mine,it gives you something to do

Mine is a RMVB... with PUSHBUTTONS. It's fun, actually.

I have been running manual valve bodies in my street cars for over 20 years and I love. I am a gearhead hotrodder and I love shifting my car when I want it to shift. You just have to be smart and know what you have so you drive it right. I use the Turbo Action reverse manual V/B and it does not have a low band apply so I never shift back to first until I come to a full stop. And if you get on it or do a burnout in first you dont lift on the gas until you shift into second as you dont want to damage the sprag (overrunning clutch). Many newer V/B's have the low/reverse drum apply now in first and you dont have to be as careful with them. I have been using the older Turbo Action V/B's with no low band apply for over 20 years like I said and have never had a problem. But I do know what I have and know how to drive it as when you buy a no low band apply V/B it even says not for street use. Most of the manual V/B's today are low band apply which is best for anyone who dont understand what can happen to the rear sprag in the non low band apply. Course if you dont like shifting your own gears then you need to have the throttle pressure to the trans working right so you wont burn out any clutches. Ron

Full manual verses automatic is a personal choice. If I'm going to shift, it will only be a manual transmission.

I got my auto to auto shift at 6500, but I was in the governor once, and the VB twice.

MVB here on street as well. My car (probably as many on this thread) has so much torque I don't need to shift much anyway when driving around. Only when I come to a complete stop and even then, I've left in 2nd many times. Some might say I shouldn't do that but you can barely tell with 4.56 gears I'm starting in 2nd.

When you stand on it in drive the low band is not applied. IF you spin the tires, let off, and get back on it you can roll the sprag and overspeed the front drum. Bad things will come your way if that happens.

You can do the same thing with a RMVB that does not have low band apply.

A RMVB on the street is not that bad. If your motor has some nuts you can start off in second at stop lights, and if you have a good converter even third.

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Nonsense. If left in drive and the tires spun badly the trans would likely shift to
2nd by itself - and probably faster than you could manually if you weren't prepared for that spin. And also likely upshift before you could lift your right foot.

My stroker makes about 630lbft... coming off a light, I can start in 3rd as long as I'm easy on it. Most times around town, no need to shift.

Wow! Lots of responses here. Thanks all! Re easier to fix the kickdown... The fix is painful as it involves replacing motor mounts to get the engine in correct position. And the trans has to come out for the refresh to fix the clutch pack. Damn headers make space extremely tight. I should bite the bullet and do it all correctly. It took hours to get the header bolts all tightened and hours to get the dipstick tube in. Energy level is hard to maintain and I have less time than before. Love this hobby, but...

You can just go with the Bouchillon cable kit. They work quite well. http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/inc/sdetail/3578/589

I agree on the bouchillon cable kit. I put one in my power Wagon and it works phenomenal. My project truck has a working factory linkage, but I'll be getting another cable kit when I get to that point. Much cleaner looking set up as well. Although, RMVB would be fun in the right vehicle.