Just got my first prototype trigger wheels for the EFI conversion. This wheel is a 36-1 tooth setup that should plug and play into the Holley EFI. It is a Mopar 6 bolt setup with an integrated pulley lip so you can put a stock type pulley on it. I also built some new trigger pick up brackets to accept the M12x1 sensor that Holley uses.

Nice. I really like the pulley center and attention to balance. It's difficult to see from the picture angle, but it looks like it should be a little larger. Many sensors require 1/2" of distance from rotating ferrous materials.

That looks nice Andy, what do you expect these to go for?

What thickness spacers do you have to add to all the accessories to line up with the pulleys - this thing looks pretty thick.

Very nice , two things, since its obviously steel and CNC, how tough would it be to add a ring of lightening holes, if for nothing else, eye candy, and what thickness are the teeth?

It's great to see some higher quality EFI components for the Mopar contingency. Have you considered special V pulleys to compensate for the thickness?

I'd like to hear the justification for a billet wheel versus a laser cut or waterjet cut unit out of 1/8 plate at a fraction of the cost. Eye candy - yuh, that's about it !!

Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking Andy's product. But like the billet valve covers, I don't see the point.

There will always be cost to benefit debates. I make my own trigger wheels(very economical), but if you put mine next to Andy's and asked me which one I want, I'd grab Andy's and run!

Doty makes a pulley that is the correct height to work with an ATI damper and this trigger wheel. I don't have a picture of it but I mocked it up and the alignment is pretty close.

It is possible that it needs to be larger, we'll see. I'm running an aluminum shell on the ATI damper so I think this will work just fine. The damper is 7 inches diameter and the wheel is 7 3/4 so there should be enough of a gap for the trigger to work.

Working with billet steel allows me to machine the center and add the other 3D features. I put a dot at the TDC tooth and scribed a line for the sensor tooth. I designed it per the Holley instructions so at TDC the sensor is on the 7th tooth after the gap.

Weight, if done right, you can get a billet cover lighter than any fabricated cover.

Not exactly correct. The main reason the 36-2 wheel is not real popular is because they are thin and flex in higher HP applications. We had to do some machining and weld 3 of the thin ones together to get ours to work consistently.

We finally just opted to put a flying magnet on ours with the hall effect sensor and be done with it. Which is fine if you run a cam sensor. The advantage of the 36-2 is that it can detect number one cylinder approaching. That is what the gap is for. This allows you to run sequential without a cam sensor

Here is the BB Chevy version of the trigger wheel. This is for guys who run an ATI damper with the Chevy front pattern. I put the correct diameter center hole in the wheel so you can use Chevy parts such as a dry sump drive or a pulley. The second shot shows the timing of the missing tooth. With the sensor picking up the missing tooth the engine is at 60 degrees before TDC. I believe this is the way that Holley wants it according to the instructions but I'll let the EFI experts tell me for sure.

I made these 0.370 thick since that is the thickness of the MSD trigger wheel. A lot of guys already have their front drives spaced out to work with the MSD trigger wheel so this should be a direct drop in replacement. It isn't really designed for the street car crowd but it could be used on a street car if you use the shorter pulley from Doty. Another option is to use the ATI damper, 3/8 trigger wheel and then a Hemi pulley on a wedge. The Hemi pulley is about 0.750 shorter so it compensates for the longer ATI damper and the thickness of the trigger. I've mocked that combo up before and it can be made to work. Sometimes you need a thin spacer.

That's a healthy tooth thickness at .370", since the signal is just a s/N ratio issue, with alum damper shell, a larger dia reluctor, and fact others use .125" and .187" thickness rotors, this should be pretty solid signal platform. I am puzzled how Monte senses #1 TDC without a cam sensor, or is it a wasted spark set-up non sequential?

JCC: Any missing tooth trigger tells the ECU when either #1 or #6 is coming up, so the ignition is waste spark. You don't have sequential injection but you can do DIS as you stated.

Add a cam sensor and you run full sequential injection and coils fire only once per cycle instead of waste spark. Now you can also tune fuel and spark on an individual cylinder basis.

I'll have my own custom cam sync unit in a few weeks. Just need to get a few more parts fabricated.

AndyF, I need this for small block Mopar, please tell me you are making it for small block also?

BB and small block should be the same. Maybe different diameter balancer options?

That looks very nice! If you have one with the 6 bolt pattern on it I will probably get one of those. I have a Morosso crank pulley and it is no big deal to chuck it on a friends mill and shave some more off of the back of it.

I have a very thin laser cut wheel a friend of mine made for me. It works great but it is thinner than anything on the market. The only time I have had a sync loss problem was when I moved my stuff over to my current engine and did not recheck sensor gap.