Cool. Whats the plans for the block?

Some old school domed pistons and a nice pair of iron J heads.... going back to stone age stuff on it but its still fun.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/215655/message/1066184641/Car+Craft+Cooling+Fan+Dyno+Test Flex fans scare the crap outa me

'nother http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/dyno.html

electric fan & electric pump. can cool down fast with engine off, can warm up fast with fan off. if its a bracket car its the best you can get.

Looks like the same article. 1308 looks closest to mine. Shows 20hp loss.

Word of warning, we bought an Ebay unbranded chinese electric fan to supplement the stock fan on our mild small block a body build, just in case we needed it. Never had to use it. During a burn out, the stock fan pulled enough air to exceed the electric fans safe working RPM and it promptly exploded taking out the radiator and part of the grill. Messy
Another point of note is we noticed the car would pick up on et and mph if the fan belt slipped those stock 8 bladers must take some power to turn at high (ish) rpm.

Hey Dave,
Over here with 95 deg F plus and 90% humidity, a Flexalite nylon fan, matching shroud on an aluminum radiator with 160F thermostat cools a 600hp big block in an A body. Idling in traffic sees 175-180F. Does get better than that.

Nothing wrong with the flex fan, if you don't have enough room for a clutch fan. My brother has had one on his car for years and street drives it and races every weekend and it cools good and has not flown apart. I have had both electric and mechanical fans on cars over the years. Electric fans are nice, but more complicated and need a good electrical system to support them. My wife was driving my car to work on time and the electric fan died= major overheat. After that I went back to stock shroud and fan setup. Really are you going to notice a few hp loss to turn it on a street car.

Remember you will be putting an additional 25 - 30 amp draw on your electrical system - at idle, which could necessitate an alternator change. If you have to run the fan with the engine off because of an over heat, you got "other" cooling system problems that you sure don't want to deal with on the street. Some of the HP losses quoted with a mechanical fan are way on the high side (IMO) and usually don't take in to consideration the HP loss caused by the additional 25-30 amp draw that the alternator has to supply. Due to clearance issues with my street rod, I have to run a 16" electrical fan. Draws 24 amps and I can actually watch the rpm drop when it kicks on. Unless it has been damaged, Flex fans are as reliable as any metal fans. Mine sees 7K at the track all the time.

I'm not afraid of this flex fan coming apart. had it for 18yrs now, was on my 340 for maybe 4yrs. iv heard the stories since the 80's about them coming apart ,but have never experienced it myself. when I switched the flex fan for the electric I could not tell any seat of the pants improvements.
so, as of now I'm leaning toward the A body down flow with 1.25 2 row with shroud and flex fan. should be pretty much drop in and if the car goes into the 9's with this set up it stays, if not then it gets the electric fans and pump. project wont be finished til about 4 of july.

I run the same flex fan you posted as I cant fit a factory clutch fan in mine and I have also run flex fans for years and never had any blades come loose. I check them every so often when the hood is up. I have used this one since 2006 and its still tight and not loose at all. I dont race alot as my son dont either and we still have the factory flex fan on his Dart which we always check and has also never had a problem. I did install an electric pusher fan for back-up as when I sit in traffic for a long time (about 1/2 hr) it creeps up to 200 and then I hit the toggle switch I have the electric fan on and it keeps it from going over 200 when sitting still in traffic.
Factory clutch fans work on eng temp as if you are racing and the eng heats up enough before you launch the factory style clutch fan can engage some and rob some hp going down the track. To me you need to be sure you leave the line below 180 to be consisdent with a factory clutch fan to be sure its not engaging any when you make a pass. I have heard some aftermarket clutch fans work on rpm only and just slip at high rpm and engage at idle but I have never used an aftermarket clutch fan. Ron

Ron, what radiator and shroud set up do you have?

Dave its an Afco aluminum rad I bought from Mancini as I just told them it was a 63 Sport Fury and they new which one would fit. I did not want to spend the money most places wanted for a good shroud to fit as most wanted over $200 for a shroud ! So I went to the salvage yard and got a shroud from an early 90's Dakota and modded it some to fit. It works pretty good and was alot cheaper then the good ones they sell. Ron

30 amps at 14 volts is 420 watts. 1 hp = 746 watts. Allowing for alternator efficiency, belt frictional losses, etc. that's less than 1 hp to drive the electric fan. Even if that 45 hp from the magazine article is double what your experience is, I'll take 1 hp over 20 hp loss any day.

The reason the RPM drops when that little load kicks on is that your idling engine is only making a couple of hp just to turn itself over, so the alternator load is a significant change... same thing happens on a non-computer-controlled car when the A/C compressor kicks in.

Thanks Ron

The newer Morose say bet. 35-37 gpm and should be more that the old ratings based on what Moroso told me............The HHR fits perfectly on my 26" tank to tank Griffen..............

I am soon going to install the updated Moroso pump and an electric fan on my 318
Moroso says 30-37 gpm, way more than the one they sold years ago that I used on my old car. And that one even worked decently on the street on a 9 sec car.
Btw, my brother and I years ago swapped on electric water pumps and fans on our cars. Both were sorted out cars and we both picked up a tenth with zero other changes.

Thank you doctor.

For that post I was wearing my engineer hat instead of my doctor hat

On my 505" stroker, I run a 318 poly radiator from a manual trans car. No lower tank for the A/T. I run the Hayden short "Jaguar" 2765 clutch on a Mopar fan. I had them move the saddles back 1/2 inch when they rodded out the radiator. It not only keeps it cool at the track but in stop and go traffic as well. Surprised the heck out of me it works so well! No shroud either. I have friends with high dollar aluminum radiators, electric fans and water pumps that shake their heads...

For a water pump I used the 440Source pump and housing. NO thermostat!