Re: BAD THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR SYMPTOMS
[Re: 10sec440]
#224518
02/15/09 12:20 PM
02/15/09 12:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,185 Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,185
Park Forest, IL
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Dakota's have had a problem with the TPS for a long time. I had the surging issue on my R/T when I got it. Saw a post on the Dakota-Durango board about the TPS problem.
I talked to the Dodge dealer about it and they wanted to do all kinds of stuff. I asked about the TPS and they said they had never replaced one.
I replaced mine myself and the problem went away. My buddy in Nebraska had the same issue with his 2001 V-6 Dakota. Both ours are auto trans though.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: BAD THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR SYMPTOMS
[Re: Magnumguy]
#224522
02/17/09 10:53 AM
02/17/09 10:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 291 Ohio
Duster_Dude
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 291
Ohio
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From what you've described it sounds like the IAC has failed or is failing, that would make the RPM'S higher than normal. Just make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks, that's a good starting point. TP sensors can cause all sort's of havoc. Their main characteristic is usually a hesitation like 383man said. The best way I've found to check a TPS is via a DC voltage / waveform test. Although, you have to have access to something like a Snap-on Vantage meter or a lab scope that shows waveforms. But as long as you have a good multimeter, you can find out what each sensor is doing by reading the ohm's. Here's a video I found that might help in your diagnosis.... http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/...l-motor-267188/
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Re: BAD THROTTLE POSITIONING SENSOR SYMPTOMS
[Re: Magnumguy]
#224524
02/17/09 12:46 PM
02/17/09 12:46 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley
RodStRace
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
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Sounds like you have the info to check and fix. Just wanted to add a little history. Throttle position sensors used to commonly fail at a certain point, usually at less than a 1/4 throttle. What would happen is that the car would normally be driven at normal speeds and your foot would wiggle just a bit over the bumps. Since the sensor was similar to a fuel sending unit, the spot where all this took place would get rubbed down. They were fairly easy to check, you would just open the throttle slowly while watching the return voltage. It would raise normally, then drop out, then raise again. It would act like an ignition dropout or a fuel starve at that point. Fine above and below. The AIS causes the idle speed waver. The early ones were pretty slow and tended high to avoid stalling. Newer ones are much better, but if you have a vacum leak or other issues causing the idle speed to be outside normal range, it has to work harder and learn to keep the idle normal. The factory tends to keep the throttle plates open during shifts, to match engine speed and to keep from closing and opening the throttle and dumping that enrichment fuel (emissions and MPG).
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