I would like to use an in tank fuel pump in my 71 Charger I will be building. I am running a 383 with a six pack and I have a 3/8 fuel line. If anyone has a suggestion for a fuel pump or know of someone making a new tank with a pump, let me know. Thanks!

tanks inc.

Tanks Inc will have a complete kit for your car. I used one of their tanks for my 68 Charger. I've also used a retrofitted stock tank and installed an Aeromotive pump in it. In my opinion the retrofitted tank is a better way to go. I've had clearance issues with the tanks Inc setup. I have pics that would clearly show this but for some reason I cant upload them. Tanks by Rick does very good work for not too much more than Tanks Inc. A Walbro 255 should be fine for your application

Frank, can you send me pictures to my e-mail ?
garyscar@hotmail.com

Thank you!

One thing I forgot to mention. The tanks inc tank has a nice sump built into the tank to prevent fuel pump starvation.

Are these retro pumps fitted into the tanks any quieter than external electric pumps?

I have the tanks inc setup in my challenger and am very happy with it. It is dramatically quieter than the old external pump I had.

-Jon

As one of the few people who have had both the Tanks, Inc and Specatra tanks in the same vehicle, I will highly recommend the Spectra. Better fitment, better access to hose lines, much more accurate fuel sender.
The Tanks sender is a Ford unit and will not go to full with a full tank.
Craig

What external EFI pumps are you guys using that are so noisy? I've used the walbro units on two different vehicles, one being a 4cyl with stock exhaust and could not hear it when the engine is running.

The Walbro external we used on the FSAE car was very loud. There are many easy in-tank options available today, it's a no brainer.

How did you guys mount it? Did you use the supplied P-clamps and foam isolator sleeve? I find that very surprising because the walbro I put on a stock exhaust chrysler 2.2 engine was inaudible at idle. There are other options, however none match the ease of repair or replacement of an external.

The problem you are going to have is that no one makes an intank pump that flows a significant volume of fuel at low pressure. There are some low volume, low pressure pumps out there, but they barely pump enough to feed a healthy carbureted motor.


You are going to have to run a return style regulator with a properly sized return line. Any pump that does flow enough fuel does it at high pressure. Sure you can use a high pressure pump with high flow, but it will be heating your fuel all the time it is running. Some of the higher volume, high pressure pumps put the equivalent amount of heat into the fuels as two 240 watt light bulbs would. That's significant, but a lot of people do it on their non-PWI fuel systems.

I've been mulling this issue over for several years, and have finally come up with a solution for a high volume system that can easily support over 700hp, and will keep the fuel cool and air free at the same time.


Since you have a stock tank and a six pack induction, you could consider doing this too. Cut open an access hole on the top of your tank to match a filler plate that will seal it once done, install a properly sized Holley Hydromat and a Fuel lab 40402 low pressure 2 speed pump in there. Plumb a 1/2" feed and return line to a return style regulator. Trigger the high speed pump voltage using a throttle shaft mounted switch that activates the high speed voltage to the pump when the outboards begin to open. Done. No special fuel tank, no ineffective baffles or sumps and a solid supply of cool, air free fuel even at very low fuel tank volumes.

EFI cars have it made, as they can use the same tank set-up with a Pulse Width Modulated EFI pump and no return. Sweet, effective and moderately price.

Is fuel temperature really a problem for high hp fuel injected cars? The fuel is not going to be vaporizing in the lines at these pressures. So what if the fuel is a little warmer? It's going to get a lot warmer when it hits the intake valve.

Fuel expands when it is heated and contracts when it is colder. The thermal energy is denser in cold fuel than hot fuel. Air temperature affect the density of air as well. My car makes the most power with cold air and cool fuel. Remember Cool Cans?

Yes, the pressure of EFI systems keeps the fuel from vaporizing in the lines, but that doesn't negate the effect of pre-heated fuel on performance.

Properly designed fuel systems include adaptations to reduce the heat introduced into the fuel system as a result of high performance fuel pumps running at max output unnecessarily. It also adds to the life of the pump to run them at reduced output when max flow is not needed.

Fuel systems have really undergone some dramatic evolution in the past 5 to 10 years and not everyone is ahead of the curve, because of the pace of development. Its really cool for fuel.

JBC426,

Can you explain this more? If I look at the TanksInc website, the GPA-4 pump chart there indicates the pump can do 72GPH below 10PSI at 12VDC. Why won't that work with a high power carburated application? I understand you would need a return style regulator.

That is one of the higher, low pressure GPH rated pumps I've heard of. I'm shooting for just over 700hp and the smallest pump I'd consider running flows 160 GPH, which the pump manufacturer claims will support 800 HP. The 10 HP per GPH formula they are using seems optimistic to me.

One thing to keep in mind is that the pump you are referring to will be running at max output at all times in a bypass system. This introduces heat and accelerated pump wear. One of the reasons I picked the pump I did was due to the two speed function of the pump. Fuelabs makes the pump, and it is their lowest output model.

Interesting times we live in! It wasn't that long ago when "high-power" was over 500HP in street car!!

I know the regulator will drop down the effective flow, but I suspect the pump I mentioned would support 500HP carburated. Agree it will not meet a 700HP application.

I don't have any data to back it up but fuel gains a lot of heat from the carb. At WOT the fuel doesn't sit in the bowl that long, but I know the carb is pretty toasty if the motor is at WOT for any length of time.

I installed a Walbro 255 in my tank last
summer.There popular with the 10sec.
Mustang crowd.
If you can't fab-up what you need.
Check out Tanks Inc.
Vapor lock issues no more.
Mike

I'm just finish up a project to mount an Aeromotive pump in the tank on my '65 Coronet. It wasn't an easy project. I couldn't do the welding but I know a guy who can TIG soda cans so he helped me out.

You have any sump or baffling in there to prevent the pump from sucking air?